What are these gears on a clutch pressure plate?

[Jack Bennett]

As I meander through the steps of reanimating a 1929 Fargo Express panel truck, aka, a Canadian Chrysler, I discover many new puzzles to keep me entertained.

One such puzzle involves some little gears, almost resembling what the end of a torx driver looks like when viewed lengthwise, with their accompanying springs (some missing) which are riveted to the face of the outer pressure plate disk.

Anyone with any idea what these little gizmos do, and what the consequences of the missing springs will be if the pressure plate is put in use.

[viv w]

Those "gears" are for adjusting the 3 clutch fingers to give clearance to the fingers from the thrust bearing.

[Jack Bennett]

49 minutes ago, viv w said:

Those "gears" are for adjusting the 3 clutch fingers to give clearance to the fingers from the thrust bearing.

Wow…..Thanks viv W. So I must suppose that the springs are a way of locking the wheel from turning once the adjustment is made.

Most probably I would have figured this out as I disassemble the pressure plate for cleaning and restoration, but I now know that they don’t hold something together which would be buggered beyond repair if I took it apart.

Thanks again!

[Jack Bennett]

Sure glad I bought a new can of “Blaster” penetrating lubricant yesterday.

Now that Viv W has enlightened me in regards to the gears being used to adjust the distance between the fingers and the throw out bearing, and I made a incorrect assumption about the purpose of the springs, I will retrograde to a safer location, and make another, probably incorrect assumption.

I now notice that the end of the spring which goes through the hole on the pressure plate cover, and appears to be bent in a manner that it rests below the finger, I must assume the tension it provides is actually the adjustment of the distance between the bearing and the finger.

That being so, I must also presume that the position the spring rests in one of the gears teeth actually determines the height of the finger, rather than “turning” the gear to set its height.

I’m going to tax your knowledge of these things again viv W to correct me here.

Edited October 16, 2023 by Jack Bennett (see edit history)

[3macboys]

6 hours ago, Jack Bennett said:

1929 Fargo Express panel truck, aka, a Canadian Chrysler,

Not necessarily true - in 29 Fargo was still produced and sold in the US and the Fargo name didn't disappear for US sales until the 30's.  The Chrysler Corp was in a real growth stage and a lot of changes took place between 28 and the late 30s as far as product names and placement.  

[Aussie Scruffy]

Think the star wheel adjusters are used to set up the Factory height specification of the 3 actuation fingers. Throw out bearing to finger clearance usually set some other way e.g with clutch lever external stop and return spring. You can take it all apart in a press and cleanup / lubricate the pivot points. 

[mikewest]

Buy a 5 gal pail of EVAPORUST and submerge that  assemble for a month. It works and is great stuff. It will come out like a new nickel! Its better because it eats the rust in the treads where you cant get at. I love the stuff now after avoiding it for years because Im sutborn .

[Jack Bennett]

5 hours ago, Aussie Scruffy said:

Think the star wheel adjusters are used to set up the Factory height specification of the 3 actuation fingers. Throw out bearing to finger clearance usually set some other way e.g with clutch lever external stop and return spring. You can take it all apart in a press and cleanup / lubricate the pivot points. 

Hi Aussie Scruffy. I take the bits and pieces of information, and advice, you folks so kindly provide, and use it in the same manner as I used an eight digit map coordinate during my years in the Army.
In itself, the coordinates, even if you have the map are useless unless you know how they relate to actual terrain features on the ground.

And, even if I do have the correct coordinates, but no map, or a topographically correct map, and no coordinates, I still have no hope of finding the actual place on earth I am looking for.

With the information I gleaned from helpful forum members, I have taken a second look at the star wheel adjusters, aka, “little gears” which resemble a torx wrench, and see now that the studs they are mounted to are, indeed, threaded lugs which extend through the clutch pressure plate cover, and when turned, do adjust the up and down movement of the fingers. 
I am still unclear as to the purpose of the little springs, which has one end resting on the star wheel, and the other end resting under the finger, after it passes through a hole in the pressure plate cover. But, I am equally certain this will become clear as time passes.

Thanks again…

Jack

 

[Jack Bennett]

3 hours ago, mikewest said:

Buy a 5 gal pail of EVAPORUST and submerge that  assemble for a month. It works and is great stuff. It will come out like a new nickel! Its better because it eats the rust in the treads where you cant get at. I love the stuff now after avoiding it for years because Im sutborn .

Gee mikewest…….sometimes useful information just ebbs and flows from the cracked screen of my old, seventh generation iPad.

Thanks to your post I find that EVAPORUST is available, with free shipping, on Amazon for $121.75 for five gallons.

It has been a few days since I enjoyed the anticipation of the new inner tubes I ordered from Amazon for my old truck to arrive. I have been without this source of enjoyment, since they are now here, and I appreciate that I now have a new thing to order and restore that sense of anticipation.

Since the old Fargo Express Panel Delivery I just bought is 99% rust and .01% solid metal, I am a little Leary of getting this stuff too close, or I may lose the truck altogether. But, I assure you, it can be put to use in many places other than a rusty pressure plate.

Thanks for the tip…

Jack

[JACK M]

Evaporust will probably do a great job.

But if you are anything like me, I like some of the less expensive methods.

Go to your local farm store and buy a bucket of horse molasses.

Mix it with water at about 6 parts water to one part molasses and soak for a week or two then rinse with a hose.

Environment safe and works really well on rust. (wont clean paint or grease, just rust)

[Jack Bennett]

19 hours ago, 3macboys said:

Not necessarily true - in 29 Fargo was still produced and sold in the US and the Fargo name didn't disappear for US sales until the 30's.  The Chrysler Corp was in a real growth stage and a lot of changes took place between 28 and the late 30s as far as product names and placement.  

Hi 3macboys……..I am prolific to the point of tedium, and if I had to buy space on the forum, supporting my writing habit would cause the amount I actually spend on my old cars to pale in contrast.

No contention intended as I totally agree with you in that Fargo trucks was manufactured in the USA until, I think, 1976.
My search for repair parts for the particular Fargo Express “Packet” Panel Delivery, sometimes resembles a dog sledder trying to run a race in Florida in July. 
Apparently, although there seems to be abundant information out there regarding the build data, and interchangeability of repair parts

From what I, and that is a capitol, italicized “I”, understand is that these particular trucks, namely the 1/2 ton Packet and 3/4 ton Clipper, were made for two years, 1929 and 1930, in Canada, using a assortment of parts made by Chrysler, Dodge Brothers, DeSoto and Maxwell. My truck is the “Express” Delivery, which was manufactured for export, from Canada, and the model line was discontinued for the 1931 model line. Adding to the confusion regarding these trucks is the story that they were made with the intention of creating a new line of light trucks, to bridge a gap left when Chrysler absorbed the light truck market from Dodge Brothers, and made the trucks available as a vehicle which could be built to meet the buyers specific needs.

I am 100% certain that my intellectual silo is 50% full of IMO’s, I think’s, and pure fabrications, and 50% full of valid information provided by forum members such as you. 
I also realize it is a hobby, concerning a seven-plus decades old truck, and whatever I believe or scrap is all in the pursuit of fun…….and not table dressing.

Thanks for your response and much welcome input….

Jack

Edited October 17, 2023 by Jack Bennett (see edit history)

[Jack Bennett]

28 minutes ago, JACK M said:

Evaporust will probably do a great job.

But if you are anything like me, I like some of the less expensive methods.

Go to your local farm store and buy a bucket of horse molasses.

Mix it with water at about 6 parts water to one part molasses and soak for a week or two then rinse with a hose.

Environment safe and works really well on rust. (wont clean paint or grease, just rust)

Hi Jack M…….Being a tractor nut also, Tractor Supply Company is one of my “Go-To” haunts. 
Since my wife passed, and my dog has became my family, my sense of values has changed radically.

My old machines have replaced kiosks in airports while awaiting to board an airplane for a trip to Europe or Asia, and a ride in my 1923 DB Roadster has replaced a trip across Canada in the motor home.

I no longer hesitate to spend a indecent amount for a equally bad meal and I like to buy my tools now based on need, rather than price.

I also use a pressure washer, and a media blaster, probably to excesses, in reanimating my old machines and the mention of a product which may replace the time, effort and mess using a media blaster is well worthy of consideration. 
“EVAPORUST” sounds like a suitable replacement for the media blaster and pressure washer when it comes necessary to remove decades of rust from metal in preparation for repair and painting.

Accordingly, I am as willing to try EVAPORUST as I am willing to try “horse molasses”, and the probability of horse molasses being available at TSC moves it up on my list of “gotta try’s”.

I prefer the rusty metal primer sold at TSC to that marketed on eBay or sold at Lowe’s, and my supply of rusty metal primer is low enough to justify a trip to TSC.

So, I suppose a bucket of “horse molasses” is in my immediate future and “Evaporust” is moved one burner back.

Thanks Jack M………

Jack

[Jack Bennett]

4 minutes ago, Jack Bennett said:

Hi Jack M……, I suppose a bucket of “horse molasses” is in my immediate future and “Evaporust” is moved one burner back.

Thanks Jack M………

Jack

Well, Golly, Gee…….I just Googled TSC looking for “horse molasses”, but the nearest they come to an animal named rust remover is “Piggy poo and crew”.

So, a new search begins, and that is exactly what this is all about!

Jack

[Bloo]

6 hours ago, mikewest said:

Buy a 5 gal pail of EVAPORUST and submerge that  assemble for a month. It works and is great stuff. It will come out like a new nickel! Its better because it eats the rust in the treads where you cant get at. I love the stuff now after avoiding it for years because Im sutborn .

Keep a lid on, maybe not tight, but water evaporates out of the stuff, And with winter coming, keep the bucket inside. The warmer the better. Apparently the reaction completely stops below 60F or so, but room temperature is OK. Years ago I was trying to derust wheels outside in cool or cold weather, and was getting nowhere until until I arranged a heater. The container got up to about 85F and that went like gangbusters.

 

[Mark Gregush]

Also keep in mind that grease and oil will kill the action of the Evaporust so parts should be as grease and oil free as you can get them first. Also, it will not remove paint, so any rust under the paint might not get converted. I am thinking those wire springs on the adjusters, the bent ends would have acted as locks to keep the segment gears from turning after adjusting. The one is under the segmented gear, think that is the proper place.