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Installing door panels to a wood frame door


roadmaster37

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Photos of the door and your panel.

Most cars at that time used pop in clips with screws in the two bottom corners. Look for holes 1/2" from the edge that are about 3/16".

Photos of the door and your panel will reveal the answer.

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I'm restoring an interior of a 1935 Studebaker Hearse. The front will be leather, the back is velvet or velour. I used 1/8 inch tempered masonite for the panels. The original material was done with nails and staples and was a thicker heavier material than what I have been able to find. It would hide the nails. There were no screws showing and I don't want them to show on the resto. I just bought some 18 gauge 3/4 brad nails and will be experimenting with that. Between the board and material I will be using a 1/8 inch foam underlayment. I used the tempered masonite and underlayment when doing my 8 ft roof panel and it came out awesome. 

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I recently had to remove and reinstall my front door panels on my 35 Buick.It's fabric over a thin layer of  foam and fiber board.It was nailed to the wooden frame.I carefully separated it and some of the small nails or brads pulled through the panel which I then removed with pliers.I then hammered it back in place and used a long needle to pull the fabric and padding back over the brads.Practice on a part that's not visable like under a window garnishing or frame.I got a pack of long needles at Hobby Lobby and the small brads at a hardware store.I had to remove the panels to replace a window and a door handle.

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For the fabric covered panels, do as suggested….position panel, use a headless brad through the fabric to nail to wood, drive in as far as you can then use a needle to pop fabric over brad.

 

On leather covered panels, if wanting no fastener showing, use panel nails (pictured).   Place backing board,uncovered, on wood in position, drill small pilot holes through panel and into wood, place panel nails on backer board, cover board with padding and leather, use a rubber hammer to gently install.

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Here are pictures showing how to use brad through fabric, drive brad as far as you can without pinching fabric, use an upholsters pin or a needle to pop up over head of brad, dot on fabric to show it's the same area!

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9b.JPG

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As a side note, I would highly recommend using quilters cotton batting (it's very thin and I use two layers on a door panel) rather than foam.  Foam will disintegrate over time.  Foam sold these days wholesale is measured in years of service, 8 year, 10 year, 12 year, as it mostly goes to new furniture manufacturers and new furniture is not expected to last longer than that.  That yellow dust under your LazyBoy? Disintegrating foam.  Foam used to last longer until the additive which allowed it to do so was found to cause cancer and the gubmint outlawed using it.

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Tempered Masonite in my opinion is too hard to nail through. I use waterproof upholstery panel board for all my interior panels. They make a couple different thicknesses. Much easier to nail, much easier to cut, and much easier to bend if a curved panel is required.

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Here are a couple of photos of an original ‘35 Studebaker front door panel and the clips that are used to attach it. As near as I can tell, there is no wood in the front doors.

 

I did not know if you needed this information, because the original question was probably about wood used by the coach builder in the rear doors

 

Tom

 

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