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Everything posted by 37S2de

  1. I’m just now catching up on the forums I should be watching. I saw the title of this thread and thought “That’s interesting”. Then I realized that I was the one who started it years ago. I have since sold the ‘37 President for which I was looking for the thermostat. (The last time I saw that car it still didn’t have a correct thermostat) Anyway, a year after that I bought a ‘35 Commander with the same engine that did have a correct thermostat in it, so I have continued to look for (and buy) every correct Dole Valve Company thermostat that I came upon so I would have spares.I’d be willing to sell the bottom one for $75 plus shipping. It uses rubber sleeves shown to fit into the radiator hose, and the shape is not exactly the same. ( who would know that, but a very few of us, and no one that I know would call you on it if you showed up at a show with this in your radiator hose.) By the way, the image that Gary posted above of an original Dole thermostat is my ‘35 Commander I guess the moral of this long story is that parts like this are still out there if you have patience and keep looking. Tom
  2. Don —- If the flange is too big, it would not be a problem to chuck it up in my lathe with soft jaws and turn it down to whatever you need. Tom
  3. Hi George Yes, I have your address. It went out in this afternoon’s mail Tom
  4. George If you’d like, I can send you some of this material. I suspect that you’d have to buy a monster sized roll of the stuff if you went out to buy it Tom
  5. A long time ago Ford Stoecker told me that the ring around the horn button unscrews. I tried for years to remove the ring with finger pressure and had been unsuccessful, even at one point wrapping masking tape with the sticky side out around my fingers. Today, after reading Chris’ post, I tried again with thumb pressure. There must have been some tape residue on the ring because it actually moved a little before it stopped and I couldn’t get another grip. I then got an old bearing race that was big enough to go around the horn button. I cut a ring of double-sided sticky-tape material that was designed to install floor tiles and put that on the bearing race. The tape material is kind of cushion-y and I figured I could get an all-round friction grip on the outer horn ring. And I could get a good grip on the bearing race. It worked like a charm. As you can see, the threads are pretty fine. I’m glad I didn’t break the ring and I’m hoping I can get it back on without cross-threading it. Tom
  6. Hi Don. Thanks for responding, but if I am reading your post correctly, the air cleaners you have are similar to the one in the photo above. That is the air cleaner I am trying to replace with one that is labeled as 0303-1F in the illustrations in the parts manual. If what you have looks like 0303-1F, I would like to see pictures. Thanks. Tom
  7. Hi Chris. Thanks for looking. I’d like to find the correct one because the hood side panels are recessed to accommodate that larger diameter air cleaner. I’ve owned this Coupe-Express for more than 23 years now, so I guess I need to start paying more attention to finding the correct air cleaner (either here or at swap meets once they open up again) Tom
  8. I have started to look for a correct air cleaner for my ‘37 Coupe-Express. The photo shows what I have on my engine now. It’s good-looking, but not correct for the year. The page from the parts manual shows illustration number 0303-1F (part number 190195) as the one I’m looking for. If anyone has one of these in good shape that they would be willing to part with, please contact me here or at: studebaker4829@live.com Thanks in advance. Tom
  9. Yes, I finally got into my storage and found the support rod. If you want it, e-mail your mailing address to: studebaker4829@live.com and I’ll send it out. All I ask is whatever postage is on the box. Tom
  10. For proper measuring of bolt patterns, wheels with even numbers of bolt holes (4, 6, or 8), measure from center to center of opposite bolt holes. For 5-lug wheels measure from the center of one hole to the far edge of an opposing hole. ’37 Coupe-Express and Dictator are 5 x 5, not 5 x 4.75. Tom
  11. Here is a photo of an original ‘35 Commander wheel with original stripes. It is a 16 inch wheel. I think that Studebaker went to wheels with hubcap clips in the wheels in ‘36, rather than hubcap clips in the hubcaps themselves. The wheel in the photo posted by albatrossca looks like Studebaker, and earlier than ‘35. I’d be looking at the size of the bolt holes (1/2” for Dictator and 9/16 for Commander and President), bolt pattern (5 x 5 for Dictator and 5 x 5 1/2 for Commander and President). I’m not sure when Studebaker went from 17” wheels to 16’s, but I’m sure that info is available. I’ll see if I can find it tomorrow Don—- The wheels in your first post above would use hubcaps that don’t look anything like the 37’s you need. Neither of those wheels are ‘37’s. Tom
  12. Chris —-Did you ever find the lug nuts you needed? I was looking through some of my Hudson parts and came across some (6 or 7) right hand 9/16-18 lug nuts and one left hand 9/16-18 lug nut that I had for my ‘37 President. The parts book shows the same numbers (174969 and 174970) for ‘35 Commanders Years ago, when I was restoring my President, I bought a six foot length of 7/8 hex stock with the intention of making my own lug nuts. I also bought a left hand 9/16-18 tap. If you still need ‘em, I can make ‘em. It really wouldn’t be difficult in the lathe. Just put the stock in the lathe, drill it, tap it, cut the angle, relieve the threads, part off to length, start the next one. Tom
  13. Hi. I guess I don’t check this forum as often as I should. I just now saw your post. I don’t have many ‘37 headlight parts left. I know that I have a pair of reflectors that need to be re-silvered and I have some of the “arrowhead” guide clips and springs and some of the flat stops. I don’t have any sockets or lenses or spring seats. I also have the front license plate bracket. Tom studebaker4829@live.com
  14. Bumping to top. I don’t care what it’s called. I want to call it “sold”. This car should have been gone 9 months ago. I’ll listen to offers. Tom
  15. This ‘32 Chevrolet is once again offered for sale. The buyer was unable to retrieve the car during the winter and then the pandemic shut down all travel for him and he lives in the northeast in a state that would still require him to quarantine if he traveled to Louisiana. Anyway, the logistics just proved too much and the deal is off. Here are a couple of pictures of the car now. I did put it together enough to make transport easier. Please read the description in the original post. Contact information is the same. Come look at it in person. Still located about 10 miles east of Shreveport, LA. Again asking $10,000 Tom
  16. studebakerfoureighttwonine@live.com Use digits, not the spelled out numbers Don’t feel bad if I don’t respond right away. My iPad ignores e-mails from my sister, and so does the desktop computer, but at least the desktop sends mail to a “junk” folder where I eventually find it. There’s a PM function here on this AACA-sponsored site? I sure can’t find it Tom Lewis
  17. OK, looks like a ‘36 coupe with crank out rear window. So, what’s up? Tom
  18. Rex— Ain’t memory a wonderful thing? Back when I thought I could make a living transporting antique cars, here’s a picture of yours. It was 2002, so “over 15 years ago” still applies. I transported it for you from Napa, California to Niles. I tried to take a picture of every car we transported and put them in chronological order in a scrapbook, so I know you’ve owned it for at least 18 years Tom
  19. Hi Chris. After reading your comment I fitted an original 2331 bulb into that reproduction socket and it fit fine. I see these 2331 bulbs at every swap meet I go to. I stopped buying them because I have so many (34 on hand right now — I just counted them) I also checked to see that the contacts on the bottom of the bulb lined up with the holes in the insulating washer when the owner has to solder the button contacts on the wires. Looks OK to me. I did check Rhode Island Wiring’s catalog and they don’t show these sockets. I’m not sure where Restoration Supply Company sources them. (Or if theirs is even what I have) Tom
  20. Here’s a picture of various parts I have. Some of those “A” shaped clips were reproduced by Don Axlerod years ago. I’m not sure where I got the reproduction socket. It might have been Restoration Supply Company in Escondido, CA. The socket is in the newest catalog I have for them at $24 each. The original socket pictured can be restored with a couple of insulating washers, a couple of contact buttons, a spring, and some soldering ability. Tom
  21. I have a pair of reflectors that need re-slivering and various springs, clips, and sockets. I ‘ll take a photo when I go out to the garage later today. If you don’t have the thin stainless strips that go around the lip of the bucket and hold the lenses in place, they might be the hardest-of-all pieces to find. Most sealed beam conversions that I’ve seen eliminated those strips. I don’t have any of them. Tom
  22. HA, HA. This is my “American Pickers” price. You never know. Several years ago I was at a Studebaker International annual meet with another ‘37 Studebaker that I had restored, when a man came by and declared that he wanted to buy it and had to have it. I stated that I wasn’t interested in selling. He kept after me and asked what my “crazy, stupid, don’t want to sell it” price was. I quoted a price north of $100,000 and figured that would be the end of the conversation. All he said was “Can I look under the hood?” Less than five minutes later he owned it. My wife was pissed that I let it go and I still regret I didn’t keep it long enough to take it through the AACA system. Tom By-the-way, auburnseeker , I am in the process of repainting all four fenders on my ‘47 Hudson pickup, and just reinstalled the left rear today. I have followed the entire chronicle of your shop build and am impressed with the attention to detail and astonished at the total cost. It’s not like that here in rural Louisiana. Permits? We don’t need no stinking permits. Insulation? We don’t need no stinking insulation. And it’s all clay soil. I have yet to find the first rock on my property.
  23. Here’s one. This photo was taken in 2016 on the day the truck was awarded its AACA Senior Award. I’ve owned it since 1997 and did all the work myself except upholstery and chrome plating. One hundred large and it’s yours. Come and get it. Tom
  24. Gary — Don’t feel bad. I went through the same drill several tears ago when my engine was rebuilt by one of the most reputable shops in the country. Me: “Do you want me to leave you the shop manual so you can set the timing right?” Them: “No, we’ve done this before.” I think they wound up refunding me $400 to buy the new pan gasket and my labor to drop the pan and put the oil pump in the right position and reassemble. I think there’s a thread about that either here or on the SDC forum. There was no way I was going to leave it the way it was with the wires all looped around the engine bay Tom
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