Jump to content

37S2de

Members
  • Posts

    209
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 37S2de

  1. OK. Happy hour has started here so I really shouldn’t be posting, but I am finished with even clicking on any thread that starts with “ How do I get a title in (fill in the state name here)” or “barn find” or “Grand pa’s car” or any other derivation on the theme. I think the moderators should have a blanket statement that says “Check with your state’s DMV” and let it end there. Tom
  2. Whoops! Sorry Rex. I just grabbed the first catalog that came to hand at my desk. Obviously the recommendation for purchase should be you or other dedicated Studebaker parts vendors who have helped all of us restore and keep our Studebakers on the road. Tom
  3. Hi Chris The bumper brackets are held on by simple clamps. The front clamps have a more pronounced curve or dome between the bolts. The rears are pretty flat. Looks like something that would be fairly easily made on a milling machine if you are missing the clamps. The distance between centers of the mounting bolts looks to be close both front and rear at 2 and 3/8 inches. Plenty more pictures available if these don’t show what you need. There is a large rubber grommet around the rear mounting clamp. Steele Rubber has these in their catalog part number 18-0013-29. My Steele catalog is from 2011, so I hope they still carry these. They don’t show a front grommet and I don’t have any on my car. I took these photos as part of a portfolio because I’m getting ready to sell this car. If you are missing those clamps, let me know so I can take mine off and copy them before the car disappears. Tom
  4. Now that I’ve taken longer than 5 minutes to think about my reply to the original poster, I do seem to recall that there might have been a bolt hole or dowel pin in a different place on the ‘49 engine as compared to the ‘37 bellhousing. I remember now that I had a struggle with that issue when I dial-indicated the bellhousing to the engine. It’s been more than 10 years ago, so the details are hazy. Tom
  5. I have a ‘49 Commander engine in my ‘37 Coupe-Express. Bolted right in with no modifications needed that I can recall. I did have to have a shorter driveshaft fabricated because Jerry Kurtz made me a post-war overdrive set-up. Tom
  6. It’s always nice to see a photo posted of a car that I have restored. Yes, I restored the maroon coupe, and I still regret allowing Mark Hyman to talk me out of it. I wanted to take it through the AACA judging system. I finished the restoration as much as I could on a Friday evening. I loaded the car into the trailer on Saturday and on Sunday set out for the 2015 SDC/ASC International meet in St Louis. I knew that there were a couple of items that still needed to be done , but I wanted to get opinions from my friends on how I could improve the car to compete in the AACA. Mark saw the car on the show field and announced that he had to have it. I told him that I wasn’t interested in selling. He kept after it, and asked me what my crazy “I don’t want to sell it price” was. I quoted him a number that I thought would end the conversation, and all he said was “Can I look under the hood?” He looked, and came up with an offer that I rejected and we negotiated a little and five minutes later he owned it. My wife was pissed that I sold it. She knew how much work I had put into it. I’ve told the current owner that if he ever got tired of it that I might be interested in buying it back, but I know that won’t happen. I’m into downsizing now and not really wanting to buy anything more. A couple of observations on the numbers of these ‘37 President Coupes. Dick Quinn published the production figures for all ‘37 cars in the May/June 2007 issue of the Antique Studebaker Review. There were only 26 cars built as 37C Q2. 20 as regular production and 6 as “State” models. If Stud37 has body number 9, I think it’s really special that it survived in some form. The body tag on the green car that Dick Quinn had shows body number 162. There were only 165 of 37C Q3 bodies produced, so that car was just the third from the last. I’ll second Bill’s statement that a restoration to original is the way to go. These cars are too thin on the ground. Now, if you need an original engine, I have a ‘35 Commander with a 250 straight 8 that I could sell for about the price to rebuild the engine alone. I think the biggest differences between ‘35 and ‘37 engines is that the fuel pump got moved and the master cylinder was moved off being mounted on the engine to a frame location. Tom
  7. If you can’t find exactly what you want, I can make any kind of stud or bolt in any kind of material that you might want. I’d just need specifications and material. Tom
  8. Chris —- My Commander is on my lift. My engine splash pans are attached to the BOTTOM of the frame rail. Here is a picture looking towards the back of the car showing the tube above the splash pan. I hope this is clear, but if you need more photos, e-mail me at Studebaker4829@live.com Tom
  9. The cork-faced, oil bath clutches in Hudsons are notorious for sticking. Almost every Hudson owner I know kept a piece of wood in the car to keep the clutch pedal depressed when the car (or in my case a pick-up) was not in use for a while. Here’s a couple of pictures of what happens if you neglect to do that. Mea culpa Tom
  10. Does anyone out there have a correct door hinge rear-view mirror bracket for a ‘37 Coupe-Express that would be available for sale? I purchased the pictured bracket many years ago from a person who had a ‘39 Coupe-Express and was never able to get it to fit. I showed it to Ford Stoecker a number of years ago and he showed me how what I will call the “tongue” should be positioned as shown in my very rough sketch. I wouldn’t mind if what is available is shorter than the 16 inches or so that this one is. I think that I’d have to remove this one every time I put the truck into the enclosed trailer because it sticks out so much Thanks in advance. Tom
  11. Hi Nate. It looks like a common problem. I remember that I struggled with this with both ‘37’s that I have restored. I went looking through my spares and all I found were pieces of springs that I kept for samples in case the ones on my Coupe-Express give up the ghost. Tom
  12. Hi Doug. I’m sorry for the delayed response, but here is a picture of the cowl vent. I can find no evidence that there ever was a screen in it. I know that by 1937 the cowl vents had screens, so maybe Studebaker had heard enough complaints. Tom
  13. Here are a couple of views of the driver’s side wiper on my ‘35 Commander. The passenger side matches. I suspect that these are original because so much of the rest of the car is original, but cannot say for certain sure that these left the factory on the car. Tom
  14. Alright, Gary. I knew you’d see your work. Those decals are really nice. Tom
  15. While looking for the Burgess decals, I came across the some decals like the ones in the original post here. I have some with a black background and one with a clear background to be placed on a black air cleaner. The black background one says “Studebaker Corp” and the clear background one says “Studebaker Packard Corp” . My memory is probably faulty, but I seem to remember that either Studebaker International or one of the other major Studebaker parts vendors had these available. Tom
  16. Here is a photo of an original ‘37 President air cleaner. I didn’t have any digitally-stored images of the air cleaner, so this is an image of a printed photo from 2015. I also found some reproduction decals made in 2015 by one of the members who posts here and will probably see this. I won’t identify him if he doesn’t want to be (I haven’t asked) Tom
  17. Sorry, but neither of those decals are correct. Neither are the air cleaners. Both of the air cleaners pictured here were produced after the Packard purchase of Studebaker in the fifties. (Both decals say “Studebaker - Packard Corporation”) The correct air cleaner for a ‘37 President was made by Burgess and had a small oval Burgess decal. It does not have a replaceable element. I’ll try to get a picture of a correct air cleaner and decal tomorrow. Tom
  18. The freewheeling is nice in that the clutch does not have to be disengaged to shift, but I sure wouldn’t use it much if I lived in mountainous or even hilly country. Hershey is not in the cards for me this year either. Tom
  19. I am feeling badly about not being able to attend the Antique Studebaker Club / Studebaker Drivers Club meetings this week in Wisconsin. I decided that today was the day to get the Commander down off the lift and cleaned up and on the road. It has been a year to the day that I started a project to replace the king pins in this car and I have a whole series of threads on this forum documenting that process. A knee replacement and other issues delayed anything happening until now. I checked all the fluids and charged the battery and hit the electric fuel pump for a little while and turned that off and turned the key. The Startix did its thing and the engine started on about the second revolution after being idle for a year. What a sweet sound. I did a brake check coming off the lift and all was good. Some years ago Dick Quinn sent me an original owner”s manual for this car and I wanted to make sure the Freewheeling feature worked properly as I had never moved the knob since I bought the car. It worked perfectly. I did about twenty miles and it ran great. Good oil pressure and the temperature never got above 180. And my newly machined king pins didn’t fail either, which I consider to be a good thing. (Tongue very much in cheek. These king pins probably better than original) I’m sorry that I missed the meet, but I’m thinking about you guys and gals and maybe I’ll make it next year, where ever that might be Tom
  20. Sorry this took so long, but here is a small-end view Tom
  21. That looks like very nice work. Thanks for the update. Sometimes pictures of projects are posted and then nothing more is ever seen. I’d like to see it again when it is completed. Tom
  22. Jeez, George — Aren’t there any Dentists’ tools that would work? Surely you didn’t throw them all away, did you? Tom
  23. Here is a picture of my Mom with my parents’ first car, a 1938 Oldsmobile business coupe. Dad graduated from Tufts in 1941 with a chemical engineering degree and went to work for DuPont in Wilmington. He bought the Olds so he could travel back to Kearny, NJ on weekends to see his high school sweetheart. The picture was taken in 1942. They married in December 1942. Family legend tells of the “ child safety seat” of 1944 for my older brother, which was a well-padded orange crate set up on the package shelf behind the only seat in the business coupe. Tom
  24. Here is a picture of my paternal grandparents and their first car . It was a used 1936 Nash. Grandpa was an electrician at a General Electric plant in either Jersey City or Newark. My grandparents lived in Kearny, NJ. Grandpa either walked to work or took the trolley. They had no use for a car until they bought a “summer” place in “Outcault”, NJ (near Jamesburg and Helmetta, NJ. I’m pretty sure the picture was taken in front of their house on Devon Street in Kearny. The picture was taken in about 1940 when both grandparents were in their early 50’s Tom
  25. Certainly not a precision measurement, and the camera angle throws it off, but I’m seeing 8.125 center to center. If more precise measurement is needed let me know. Tom
×
×
  • Create New...