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Casting rubber parts in a 3D printed mold


Gary_Ash

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My 1963 Studebaker Wagonaire station wagon needs new rubber seals for the rear quarter windows.  The glass is almost 4 ft long, has a corner with a 1" radius.  The factory seals are no longer available but Steele Rubber has some standard extrusions that can be used for 95% of the seal.  They are a bit taller than the originals, but close enough.  The originals also used stock extrusions with two molded corner pieces vulcanized or glued together.  

 

I ordered copies of the original drawings of the extrusions and seal from the Studebaker National Museum archives.  Using those, I drew the piece for the sharp corner in my TurboCAD Pro program.  Then I drew a rectangular block and "subtracted" the rubber part from the interior of the block, then "sliced" the block from top to bottom.  I added two alignment pins and sockets in the two halves of the mold.  The two mold pieces were then printed out on my Creality Ender 3 printer in PLA plastic. 

 

On the advice of Studerex, I ordered some liquid urethane casting material (PMC-121/30 "Dry") and black pigment from Smooth-On.  With 12 grams of Part A in one small cup and 12 grams of Part B plus 4 drops of black pigment in a second cup, I stirred it up, and poured the Part B into the Part A cup, more stirring.  The mold halves got coated with Butcher's Paste Wax as a mold release.  I didn't want to use silicone mold release because adhesive might not stick to the parts later.  I clamped the mold halves tightly together and poured in the liquid urethane.  It was about the consistency of maple syrup. 

 

After 16 hours of curing, I unclamped the mold and tried to slide the part out.  One side of the mold captured the rubber very tightly, so I had to pull and push quite a while to get the part out - a different mold design next time!  But, once out, the part is very good.  It got cooked in a small toaster oven at 150 °F for 6 hours to complete the cure and toughen it up.  The part is the right size and shape, about the hardness I wanted and very flexible, and fits the corner of the glass.  Now I have to order about 20 ft of the extruded materials from Steele Rubber.  It isn't cheap but it is available.  Then I'll miter two corners and glue the cast part in with black weatherstrip adhesive to make the two gaskets I need.

 

wagon_63_side_112611.jpg.fb42424c09f79f589090bddcbd6278cc.jpgThe 1963 Studebaker Wagonaire Standard in progress.

 

StudebakerWagonairesealdwg.jpg.1c9a6519307bdf7e4f72e0ec6eb7956d.jpg

The tight corner on the rear quarter seal.  Mitered corner at bottom left.

 

rearqtrsealcorner1.jpg.51ffbe246c33f9bbdb502010881288e2.jpgCAD model of the corner piece.

 

sealcornermold.jpg.acc0f9724b2f66688d1056d8d018a287.jpg

The 3D printed mold for the corner.

 

sealmold.jpg.24aa0736e5c109963c5fa2070fd5fdb7.jpg

The mold halves together.

 

rubberpoured.JPG.db43d55314c90704e5d674c894d96404.JPG

Liquid urethane rubber poured into mold.

 

rubberassytest.JPG.a6fb0ec0a51b1d34108a366e2f75ee92.JPG

Test fit of cast corner on glass with Steele Rubber extrusion.  Old seal in back.

 

 

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Thank you for this post! It is great to hear about a challenge and how it was overcome with available technology. I'm sure that there are many in this group that have obsolete rubber seal issues. 

Terry

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  • 2 weeks later...
3 hours ago, bryankazmer said:

My only suggestion is to add about 2 degrees draft angle to help the release.  Shouldn't impact part function.

Pouring in the liquid urethane completely fills any cavity so draft angle doesn't help when casting.  I should have made the mold in 3 or more pieces to separate the mold parts from the rubber when I disassembled the mold.  As it was, 5 to 10 minutes of pushing and pulling got the cast part out of the mold without tearing the rubber but it wasn't easy.  When I laid out the 3D print for the mold, I had not realized that a recent upgrade of my CAD software allowed me to "slice" with a curved surface or the extrusion of any complex line.  The trick seems to be to lay out a complex line to be used as a slicer and extrude it as a zero-thickness surface, then subtract it from the solid.  That leaves two parts that still mesh together with nothing missing. With the mold parts in 3 or 4 pieces, it will still need alignment pins.  Using some other slippery mold release beyond the Butcher's Wax might also help.

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The draft will still help after the first movement of the part away from the bottom of the cavity, but this part wants to stick.  You've already got the parting line in the best spot. A metal soap like a stearate would be a possible mold release, as these are also common ingredients in the EPDM or fPVC that the extrusion is likely made of.  It won't be as slippery as a silicone (I agree, don't!) or a paraffinic wax, but less of a risk for later adhesion.  I'd still clean the surfaces with iso propyl alcohol before bonding.

 

The typical commercial process uses a primer on the extrusions, which are held in the mold for either reaction injection of urethane or regular injection of PVC.

If you have adhesion problems getting a sample of the primer might help.  I recall one supplier was Lord, later bought by Dow.  The other major supplier is eluding me.  

 

Again, great job

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  • 1 month later...

Casting rubber parts in a 3D printed mold involves using a mold created through 3D printing technology to shape and form rubber materials into specific designs. This process starts with the 3D printing of a customized rubber mold, which is then used as a cavity into which liquid or molten rubber is poured or injected. Once the rubber cools and solidifies within the mold, it takes on the mold's shape and details, resulting in the desired rubber part. This method is particularly useful for producing small to medium quantities of rubber components with intricate or custom shapes, offering flexibility and cost-effectiveness in production.

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