drag link spring pressure

[truth]

Does the amount of spring pressure matter? the 1st 2 pics show what i believe to be correct. the black sharpie shows the bottom of the drag tube and makes sense to me cause you can start the threaded end pc and tighten till even then insert cotter pin. But the last 2 pictures show other end of d tube and now the black sharpie line shows the difference. Its way outside the tube. I cant even start the threaded end cause its so far out. this is 105 yrs old and one of the springs was missing in the short end so no telling whats been done over the years. Question is 1-is the spring compression correct on 1st set pics? 2-try to get new springs to mock the compression on 1st set of pics? 3- Any other suggestions? Thanks for any recommends

[Bloo]

Joints like this are typically only spring loaded to prevent imperfections or wear from causing binding, so my guess is going to be as tight as you can possibly get it without binding anywhere in it's normal range of motion. It will be loosest straight ahead due to wear. If the ball has worn to an oval, or is no longer at least almost round, you'll need to replace the ball. Severe wear causes sloppiness at the center that you can't adjust out because it would cause binding off center. If the ball were truly perfect, the springs wouldn't be doing anything at all because the adjuster would be bottomed out. Nothing is perfect though.

 

An exception is when one of these joints is used with intentional slop to trigger a power steering spool valve. I doubt that could apply to anything 105 years old.

 

EDIT: I see you are talking mainly about the adjuster end, but the top end of the first pic is what looks off to me. I can't really tell where the internal shelf is though.

 

What would happen if the top (in the first pic) half of the ball socket were theoretically bottomed in the housing with no spring? Would that result in the ball located in a position not hitting on the outer housing anywhere? If it would hit, there might be parts missing.

 

Edited June 21, 2023 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Stude Light]

On my cars I tighten the joints as far as possible without binding them to line up the cotter pin. I always thought the springs were there to dampen out that few thousands of an inch of slop to avoid a clunk situation.

[Fordy]

I have always done them up tight and them back it off 1/4 turn to the cotter pin fit

[joe_padavano]

3 hours ago, Fordy said:

I have always done them up tight and them back it off 1/4 turn to the cotter pin fit

That's pretty much what the factory service manual for my 62 Olds says to do.

[Gunsmoke]

It would help greatly if you told us the make/model of the 1928 era vehicle you are working on. Each model had specific instructions on assembling and adjusting these drag link fittings.

 

I believe my 1931 Chevrolet (I no longer have it) had different instructions for the forward assembly connected to steering arm than the rearward /pitman arm end. My 1931 Chrysler CD8 has only a single spring in each draglink end, and spring goes in first fully into drag link before ball containers etc. The spring as mentioned is intended to reduce road shock and excessive wear. For adjustment, it says to tighten until solid and then back off 1&1/2 turns and insert cotter pin in slot. They also note slotted screw should be flush with end of drag link, or perhaps slightly indented, but never proud of drag link end. 

[Str8-8-Dave]

Please advise make and model car.   My 1931 Buick Specs and Adjustments manual says to tighten the screw until it stops then back off 3/4 turn.   31 Buick drag link uses this adjustment at front and rear of the drag link.