truth

would you still have 5 NOS Rajah Hook spark plug terminals,?

I bought a 1946 chevy truck in 75 and restored it w my hard savings of 600.00! I did have an easy start though cause i only paid 25.00 for the truck. But i did install the chrome metal barefoot gas pedal and a smaller foot on the dimmer switch. I also bought a 6 volt ahooga horn. They were both from jc whitney and still in place and working.

Would anybody have an idea what these stamped numbers mean? this is i believe a clam shell rear end and its on a 1918 american made fiat 7 passenger touring car. It has a 4 speed trans and 4 cyl 9 litre motor

After searching the forums here i see alot to say about using only certain type heavy gear oils where in contact w brass as it will hurt the brass. My question is does this same thing occur with grease? im about to get the john deere corn head grease to use on the grease fittings in general on my 1918 fiat, and alot of those have brass. I thought id ask if anyone has any knowledge on whether certain types of grease actually can harm the brass? thanks for any wisdom shared

if you look at the posts of my same type question there is a formula given . the post is 1918 fiat oil capacity in general forum. its one of the replies that helped me

the three caps at the bearing mounts that have 2 nuts holing them on i took off to reseal the gaskets and put in a new stud. Well i dropped one nut in the open hole and have tried to get back out w magnets and hooked wire etc and cant find it. i think its on a sealed side where it cant get to the drive shaft gear. I think its caught in a cavity that more than likely will keep it separate from the open gears but what if scares me, Ive thought of taking the whole back axle off and turning it upside down. I just am not familiar w whats inside and cant find any spec drawings so thats where im at for now. Ive also filled w kerosene trying to flush it out and will try air pressue w it tommorrow.thanks for your reply

thank you for all the links w information. Its the most ive seen

anybody have know how on opening up the top lid or clamshell type diff? it looks like the axle clamps come off and after all bolts ate taken out the top 1/2 would lift off? my red flag is i dont know if all those rivets around the diff that are holding the bearings habe to be ground off or does the bearing housing split in 2 pcs? and of course any other things i know im missing? ive looked and looked and just cant seem to find much info on these type rear ends

Does the amount of spring pressure matter? the 1st 2 pics show what i believe to be correct. the black sharpie shows the bottom of the drag tube and makes sense to me cause you can start the threaded end pc and tighten till even then insert cotter pin. But the last 2 pictures show other end of d tube and now the black sharpie line shows the difference. Its way outside the tube. I cant even start the threaded end cause its so far out. this is 105 yrs old and one of the springs was missing in the short end so no telling whats been done over the years. Question is 1-is the spring compression correct on 1st set pics? 2-try to get new springs to mock the compression on 1st set of pics? 3- Any other suggestions? Thanks for any recommends

im thinking the idle jet is the one nearest the bowl?and the high sprrd jet is the other thats more in the center? any wisdom here is appreciated

still have this for sale?

is the mag clockwise rotation?

this measures 3 inches but not square

would you have a bosch zr4 2 spark mag? i doubt theres much in your book on that mag since its so rare but maybe you know? thanks tim

do you have carter yf for 46 chevy 216?

if this is still available can you tell me if the glass would be 2 3/4 x 1 7/8 please

im interestrd in the footpedals that are used on exaust cut out valves. I see one for 75.00 is there any others?

i will check that

coolant is clean i will check the oil distributor and see if i can test it some how . Pretty sure all the lines are clear. I still dont see any sign of oil in rockers

Inquiring about a problem im having on my 46 chevy 216 oil pressure. My gauge shows 15 on the dash. Ive been reading that once oil builds in bottom then it comes to the top rocker arms but im not seeing any? It looks pretty dry and no observed oil drips or flow. I dont drive it much and about a month ago i got a terrible knock noise like a bearing while cranking. Thats what started all this study. Since then its been running normal w no noises. But i took off the valve cover and noticed this issue. my only ideas are1- put in a new filter on the add on oil can type that straps to manifold or2- check the oil distributor .Im thinking the oil pump is working cause the gauge on the dash moves w the rpm's of the motor. Any thoughts on this would be great and thanks. Also its been running hot for quite awhile not in the red but right up to it and thats not been the norm cause this was my 1st vehicle since 1975 and it always ran at the 160 range.Ive just noticed the heat riser spring on the manifold is gone . Maybe that can affect temp? Ive replaced water pump- radiator- radiator hoses - thermostat and even tried no thermostat! Im wondering if the running hot did something?And that knock noise that came and went is concerning. Ive been researching but coming up dry so i thought id put up a post and see if any ideas surface Again thanks tim

still for sale?

im wondering what "skiff" means and it has a clock in the front dash would it be typical to have one front and back? im gonna search for a wire that could have fed a light but im pretty sure there isnt one the hole and wire in the one picture is a courtesy light w a jamb swtch

i think the wood is mahogony the old documents say acacia walnut was used on interior but im sure its not ALL interior

some kinda brass ring .Has 2 notches on either side as photo shows the one on the left side.This is an american made fiat The holes in floor and back of front seat is for stoaway seats The top holes in frame ie for glove box doors There is no wiring to this so i dont think its a light