alsfarms Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 The picture quality is not the best. I can't determine much about details. Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prewarnut Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 It's possible it's not but it is in the personal family album. I'm surely not expert on these but wanted to share. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 I would love to know more about this picture. Notice the angle and length of the steering coulomb, how low the seat platform and seat side panels are. It look to be configured for this drivers preferences. Where did Christopher Lloyd ("Doc") park that DeLorean I want to go back and meet them! Thanks for sharing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Surely someone on here has a way to digitize this photo. I am suspicious that this might be a Mercer. I noticed the rear hubcap appears small but because of the quality of the picture, it may be illusion. The front and rear spring shackles are configured like the Mercer and the running board brackets appear right. It is said Mercers were standardized early on but this is myth. You could put any motor you wanted in the early cars and they made at least two six cylinder cars. They were highly customizable in the beginning. If the Riker family wanted a sports car and money was no object, well, you get the jist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ak Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 1 hour ago, AHa said: Surely someone on here has a way to digitize this photo. I am suspicious that this might be a Mercer. I noticed the rear hubcap appears small but because of the quality of the picture, it may be illusion. The front and rear spring shackles are configured like the Mercer and the running board brackets appear right. It is said Mercers were standardized early on but this is myth. You could put any motor you wanted in the early cars and they made at least two six cylinder cars. They were highly customizable in the beginning. If the Riker family wanted a sports car and money was no object, well, you get the jist. Absolutely not Mercer under any circumstance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Ak, what are your reasons for this determination? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 About the Riker family album Speedster Pic; It's unfortunate this picture's quality make seeing detail so difficult. If this is a Locomobile it would seem to be a blend of an earlier straight railed frame without chain drive, maybe 1911?. The radiator resembles those of the earlier race cars and the hubcaps could be Locomobile? My wishful thinking wants to make this some kind of prototype Model 48 or a family member/friends Speedster. Does anybody have knowledge of Riker's wife or daughters driving history? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prewarnut Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 I'll have to scour the newspapers of the era to see if anything was written of his daughter. The photos are very small (about 2 1/4" x 3 1/2" or so). The scanned one might have a slight haze to the right side from the overhead lighting glare I couldn't avoid but I'm afraid the photos were taken from a distance with an early camera and who knows if it was even a Brownie. Anyhow, I can confirm his daughter's name was Charlotte and this photo was on the same page of the album. Again, a sporty car for a woman at the time. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 (edited) I confess I have no knowledge of a Locomobile frame. I can see the front of the rear spring is outside the frame and the front of the spring is underslung design, where the spring is above the shackle point. The girl stands at the point in the frame where an offset would occur if the frame widens at the back of the hood. The rear hubcap looks like a 3/4 floating hubcap but the larger diameter could be painted or obscured. The car has a sloping dash board. The running board brackets are close together as in roadster form. I would guess it had removable fenders. This is not the forum for this and I fear we have hijacked the thread but Mr Google says the white speedster was used in the 1915 silent film American Aristocracy. I have found another picture of the car and as soon as I figure out how to load it, will post it. Edited January 23 by AHa (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ak Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 On 1/19/2024 at 10:23 PM, AHa said: Ak, what are your reasons for this determination? Of course I cannot see what engine is in it, but the hood is way too long for a Mercer. Even the six cylinder cars had the same short hoods as on the L Head fours. JR 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 Here I am steam bending the walnut corner boards. Soaked in a tube for a week, steamed for two hours, bent and clamped in place, dried for a week then rough shaped the left side with a hand plain. Steamed and clamped the left side yesterday, can plain out next Thursday if all goes well. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted February 2 Author Share Posted February 2 Nice work, it certainly shows your craftsmanship! Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prewarnut Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 How are the walnut strips attached if I may ask? Glue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 (edited) Good question that I struggled with... Plan A - I found these EZ-LOK self tapping OD inserts who's ID are tapped 1/4"-20 that I have experimented with. My test piece is threaded into the ash 5/16" deep and holding very well under tensile load. So I notched and drilled the outer rails for 1/4"-20 clearance and will drill the outside surface 1/2" countersink for the insert to recess into. This allows me to run short pieces of (stainless or bronze) threaded rod through the wholes into the brass insets with everything loose, slide the piece into place then install nuts and washers on the back locking it into position with marine calking sandwiched between to seal everything. Plan B - Drill recessed holes in the walnut and run long countersunk screws though the rail with nuts and washers on the back then plug and finish the holes to hide the screws on the outside. Plan C - A Home Depot Pin Nailer and glue. Edited February 2 by rydersclassics (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted February 2 Author Share Posted February 2 I am most interested in what you feel about the easy lock hardware. Those have a possible application for a project in my near future Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 Al, So far I am very impressed, (feeling good). As you can see my application does not allow for the installation to be at full depth in the piece yet with the proper drill size for the self cutting threads these hold very well in the ash test piece. Jury is still out but so far so good. They are reasonably enough priced so that you can experiment and see what you think. If your project allows the full depth flush installation you should do well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prewarnut Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 I've used those self-tapping inserts for a prior wood-working project and they are fantastic. They bite and stay well. You can then crank down with a metal threaded bolt and really tighten the crap out of them. I assume you are coming up from underneath? At any rate I guess you might be going with plan A... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 Yes sir. Plan C Ends with a bonfire and bottle of scotch. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 I would still vote for nickel or chrome plated oval head slotted wood spaced down the center line of the trim. You have gone to great lengths to produce a period correct body and you are doing a great job, why modernize it now? When countersunk in, the screws are going to look good and like they belong there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 (edited) I do appreciate that look also, and ok plan C just moved to D replaced by your idea as a fall back to avoid the bonfire and save the scotch for a happy result celebration. In this case it seems screws would become a focal point that would draw the eye away from the overall effect of the wood contrasting with the metal. This 1916 Roadster has the look I am after regardless of method. Edited February 3 by rydersclassics (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 Hope that helped you out.........Ed 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 It seems strange to see the oval head brass screws attaching the cowl trim piece but no screws holding the body trim. I suspect what appears to be trim is actually framing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 Great pictures of a great Locomobile Ed, Thank you. I was at the auction also and love this thing. Unique, elegant and relatively untouched. I hadn't heard of Healey Co. Builders so I looked them up last summer and found this history. Great stuff. http://www.coachbuilt.com/bui/h/healey/healey.htm Healey’s exhibit at the 1916 New York Salon was described by a New York Times reporter: “The Locomobile Company shows a gun-boat roadster, body by Healey, finished in aluminum wither green stripes and green upholstery. It had low, flat lines, broad at the cowl and tapering to the rear seat, a four passenger. The windshield is twelve inches high." Allen. Agree it's strange/interesting the use of screw on the cowl trim yet the cast dash panel itself had no screw. It must be held in place from the back with hidden screws or fasteners of some kind. No doubt the exposed wood is it's framing with the half oval aluminum molding holding the panels to the structure. Reading about Healey Co., like most other custom coach builders of that time, began in the horse drawn years so traditional (conservative) construction techniques lasted well past the beginnings of mass production. More to the point every body was built to the customer's or marketing department's wishes and every customer had a host of companies to choose from. No doubt if any one builder couldn't or wouldn't build what you wanted someone else would. Point being if you want screws, you got it, if you want trim without screws showing, you got it. When a customer saw what had been built and didn't approve it got changed. Whatever it takes. How about upholstery? Scotch grained leather? Tufted or smooth? I'm leaning toward smooth not tufted. What about polished aluminum and or paint? Color? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted February 3 Author Share Posted February 3 Steve, Healey did certainly make a sporty splash with the described roadster! I don't know if it is an apple to apple comparison, but the earlier "sporty" baby tonneau body types and roadster types are all pictured with smooth leather not pleated or diamond tufted. That said, I agree with your thoughts on smooth upholstery for your project. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 I had investigated the background on the car……plugs were left out of the engine in the 40’s. It was going to take too many hours to make this one go……..I really liked the look it had. By the time you have it running, it wouldn’t be true to the photos. It went for twice what I was willing to pay. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 (edited) If you used the brass oval head screws they would tarnish soon enough and be less noticeable. Another option would be some double thread studs. These have wood screw threads on one end and machine screw threads on the other. Thread them into the wood trim then drill holes and install with a nut and washer inside the framing. There is more than one way to skin a cat. I think you should have a couple of those Healy body tags made up to install once you're done. This babbies gonna look factory! You could even go into business converting limos into roadsters. Edited February 4 by AHa (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 I may be jumping the gun, but what paint type are you going to use? enamel or base coat clear coat? I am guessing that you are not going to ad any metal flake? Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 Single stage acrylic enamel like the wheels. Bought the paint last July. Maybe leave the aluminum bare if I can pull of the metal work to a high enough standard? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 Gunmetal grey? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 Similar to pre 1915 Harley color, maybe a bit more green and darker than battleship gray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 I don't recall, is your radiator and head lamps nickel or brass? Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 German silver? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 My 48 radiators are all German Silver also. Your paint color selection will certainly compliment German Silver. Oh yes, did your other jugs pass the crack test? How goes the crankcase, crank, rods, oil pan look ok? Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 Yes Al the other 2 passed, the crankcase, crank shaft, rods, oil pan all looking good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted February 5 Author Share Posted February 5 That sounds like you are well on your way... Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 What's the status of the car, if I may ask? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rydersclassics Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 Less exiting work to be done, still drudging along slow but sure. Sorting out emergency brake location, toe board and steering coulomb support structure has been a bit of a struggle. With the body set on the chassis temporarily to verify some dimensions I found my left foot didn't fit very well. With the low steering coulomb angle and my desire to keep the e-brake lever inside the body panel I had to get creative to allow space for my size 12 foot in the clutch pedal area. I think I'm good, some drilling and tapping, then a couple of brackets to fab, upholstery tacking strips to think about and the body will finally be ready to skin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AHa Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 (edited) Here is where the rubber meets the road. You can build anything but getting it all to work together and work like it should is a different matter. It really is true, form follows function, and proper function makes demands on form. This becomes even more critical as things become smaller because there is less room to work with. Most people don't realize what it takes to build a car. Setting a motor down into a frame is the easy part, even though that effects steering components and driveability. Weight distribution can become critical with steering and with braking. You can have a beautifully designed car that is not steerable or stoppable. This is why there is a team of engineers designing and building cars, very difficult for one man to do. Looking really good. I'm sure you'll get there in the end. Just make sure your body can't move during this operation. They have a tendency to. Edited April 25 by AHa (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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