arcticbuicks Posted January 5, 2023 Share Posted January 5, 2023 but anyways ....getting sidetracked here from the nice 36 pontiac Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingdomtraveler Posted January 5, 2023 Author Share Posted January 5, 2023 13 hours ago, Bloo said: We were at the Hampton Inn. The show on Saturday was at the Cloister. What a cool area. I was having a bit of car trouble with the modern car I drove out from WA, and so didn't get to explore the area as much as I would have liked. I intended to post a thread about the event. Maybe one of these days I'll get my act together and do it. If you ever get to the area again I would be happy to show you around! There is a lot of history that most people are unaware of. The Hampton Inn sits on the ground the old Ephrata Hotel once sat on. Many years ago there used to be a world class horse racing tack where the catholic church apartments now stand. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingdomtraveler Posted January 5, 2023 Author Share Posted January 5, 2023 I had her running last night. tried to upload a video but i guess it's the wrong format. Very loud. Turns out I am missing the gas pedal. Now to find one... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arcticbuicks Posted January 5, 2023 Share Posted January 5, 2023 thanks,and i would like to do Hershey on a trip that way....on my bucket list 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axial_Flow Posted January 6, 2023 Share Posted January 6, 2023 I like the Pontiac. It should make a great driver once sorted. I live in East Berlin and work in New Holland two days a week. Good luck with your project. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted January 6, 2023 Share Posted January 6, 2023 13 hours ago, Kingdomtraveler said: I had her running last night. tried to upload a video but i guess it's the wrong format. Very loud. Turns out I am missing the gas pedal. Now to find one... It runs? Nice! That linkage wont even function without the pedal. I'd check with KornKurt, and CPR about the pedal. Hopefully you can find one. If you can, I think Steele can re-rubber it, and you will probably need to. Mine is a mess. It has been made functional by repairing the ball sockets with masonite. The way they are made, holes on the rubber pop over those 2 balls on the floor, and the ball on the linkage. Yeah, that all rotted and fell off. If you can't find the right one, you might look into one of these. I don't know why there are 2 ads from the same guy and one is cheaper. Maybe because the cheaper one seems to be missing a ball on the bracket? That bracket wouldn't be used on Pontiac anyway, the balls are in the floor. These are universal to fit a bunch of cars. I suspect it would work on the Pontiac but I don't know for sure. I would want a bunch of measurements before laying my money down.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/403715788781 https://www.ebay.com/itm/403566647544 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 6, 2023 Share Posted January 6, 2023 On 1/5/2023 at 7:13 AM, Kingdomtraveler said: tried to upload a video but i guess it's the wrong format. I think the forum wants you to post video to YouTube and then link to it from here. I did that once; kind of a PITA... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingdomtraveler Posted January 9, 2023 Author Share Posted January 9, 2023 On 1/5/2023 at 8:38 PM, Axial_Flow said: I like the Pontiac. It should make a great driver once sorted. I live in East Berlin and work in New Holland two days a week. Good luck with your project. I work in Bird in Hand. Good area. I plan on putting it in the road as soon as I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingdomtraveler Posted January 9, 2023 Author Share Posted January 9, 2023 On 1/6/2023 at 8:09 AM, EmTee said: I think the forum wants you to post video to YouTube and then link to it from here. I did that once; kind of a PITA... Thanks for the info! I ill do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingdomtraveler Posted January 9, 2023 Author Share Posted January 9, 2023 On 1/5/2023 at 9:10 PM, Bloo said: It runs? Nice! That linkage wont even function without the pedal. I'd check with KornKurt, and CPR about the pedal. Hopefully you can find one. If you can, I think Steele can re-rubber it, and you will probably need to. Mine is a mess. It has been made functional by repairing the ball sockets with masonite. The way they are made, holes on the rubber pop over those 2 balls on the floor, and the ball on the linkage. Yeah, that all rotted and fell off. If you can't find the right one, you might look into one of these. I don't know why there are 2 ads from the same guy and one is cheaper. Maybe because the cheaper one seems to be missing a ball on the bracket? That bracket wouldn't be used on Pontiac anyway, the balls are in the floor. These are universal to fit a bunch of cars. I suspect it would work on the Pontiac but I don't know for sure. I would want a bunch of measurements before laying my money down.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/403715788781 https://www.ebay.com/itm/403566647544 It runs on full throttle... revs high so I do not let it run for long. Roars to life quite easily. Exhuast stinks pretty bad. I am guessing it's old gas. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingdomtraveler Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingdomtraveler Posted January 12, 2023 Author Share Posted January 12, 2023 My gas pedal arrived today. Looking forward to getting this car on step closer to roadworthy! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 13, 2023 Share Posted January 13, 2023 OK - now 'step on it', we're all waiting! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingdomtraveler Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 well it looks like I have to strip the lacquer paint and put modern paint on. Was hoping to keep her close to original but you cant get that paint and I am told it may cause illnesses including cancer. I don't know but I am talking with a shop in Manheim, Pa that specializes in painting antiques. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drhach Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 (edited) You can't get lacquer paint? Acrylic Lacquer Paint — TCP Global First hit on Google. Edited January 23, 2023 by drhach (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt G Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 I have painted several cars I restored in lacquer paint, you have to use caution like any other paint product. Use a proper mask to breathe through to prevent the paint over spray/dust from being inhaled etc. proper air pressure etc. To learn ask around and see who does the spray painting in lacquer and ask questions , see if you can have hands on learning etc. No need to be in fear of lacquer paint unless you are careless . There is a great fellow on here who repainted sections of his 1938 Studebaker after an accident and he used rattle cans of lacquer. Came out great. With lacquer it may take longer but you can spot in sections and not need to paint a whole fender,door etc. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingdomtraveler Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 33 minutes ago, drhach said: You can't get lacquer paint? Acrylic Lacquer Paint — TCP Global First hit on Google. Apparently I can't just take his word for it. I just trusted him... thank you for sharing that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingdomtraveler Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 1 minute ago, Walt G said: I have painted several cars I restored in lacquer paint, you have to use caution like any other paint product. Use a proper mask to breathe through to prevent the paint over spray/dust from being inhaled etc. proper air pressure etc. To learn ask around and see who does the spray painting in lacquer and ask questions , see if you can have hands on learning etc. No need to be in fear of lacquer paint unless you are careless . There is a great fellow on here who repainted sections of his 1938 Studebaker after an accident and he used rattle cans of lacquer. Came out great. With lacquer it may take longer but you can spot in sections and not need to paint a whole fender,door etc. So do I use just that paint? I have been told primer reacts with lacquer paint. That BS too? I will take all the advice I can get. Thank you everybody who spoke up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt G Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 You need to use a lacquer primer - it is sand-able so as smooth as that is that you can make it that is what the color coat you will spray on top of it will look like so far as being free of ripples, runs, pits etc. Everything you use with lacquer has to be lacquer based/compatible - thinner, primer, etc. Great you want to paint it yourself. You will need a compressor and a proper spray gun. If you start small and get a small "touch up spray gun" that will ease you into it and let you touch up small areas and not have to paint the whole panel. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingdomtraveler Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 41 minutes ago, Walt G said: You need to use a lacquer primer - it is sand-able so as smooth as that is that you can make it that is what the color coat you will spray on top of it will look like so far as being free of ripples, runs, pits etc. Everything you use with lacquer has to be lacquer based/compatible - thinner, primer, etc. Great you want to paint it yourself. You will need a compressor and a proper spray gun. If you start small and get a small "touch up spray gun" that will ease you into it and let you touch up small areas and not have to paint the whole panel. The seller put a tarp on it and let it sit in his driveway for 2 years. That said, It looks like I could touch it up and be ok although there are large patches on the roof that are done to bare metal. I will shop around for a touch up spray gun and see where tis leads me. Sounds much more affordable than the shop... You folks are a God send, Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 (edited) Lacquer is hands down the safest of the automotive paints. The reasons it is no longer used are largely enviromental, due to VOC laws and the highly volatile thinners lacquer needs. In fact, useful lacquer thinner is harder to get than lacquer these days. It probably isn't impossible except in a few particular states. The other reason for lacquer's demise, and for the demise of acrylic enamel, synthetic enamel, etc. is that the new types of paint are far more durable. It is not a small difference. Also, the new paints are "systems" designed to work from the metal to the top coat. Done right, the layers chemically bond, eliminating adhesion problems. Modern types of paint contain isocyanates (look it up). So do the now defunct Acrylic Enamel and Synthetic Enamel if they are used with a hardener. They were usually used with a hardener because if you don't use one, you probably can't recoat. The paint might lift if you try. If you get a run or some other defect you are stuck with it. There are good reasons that modern painters use personal protective equipment that leaves no skin exposed, and have air supplied to their respirator under positive pressure. I wouldn't want to breathe lacquer either, but compared to modern paint it's kid stuff. P.S. If that is original paint, it is Duco (lacquer) on the body but probably enamel (Dulux?) on the fenders. Duco lacquer on the fenders was an extra cost option, and I think it unlikely anyone paid for that on a black car, especially on the lower cost model like yours (and mine). No matter though. Lacquer was used to patch up enamel paint jobs back in the day. Lacquer builds less thickness to cover, so it is easier to blend the edge of the repair. It won't melt in and completely disappear like it might over more lacquer, but it sure beats trying to patch and blend with enamel. Edited January 23, 2023 by Bloo (see edit history) 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingdomtraveler Posted January 24, 2023 Author Share Posted January 24, 2023 What a wealth of knowledge and experience! I am grateful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingdomtraveler Posted January 27, 2023 Author Share Posted January 27, 2023 What are my options for lights? The headlights are rather dim as are the dash lights. Is this just the way it is or could I somehow get better results? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted January 27, 2023 Share Posted January 27, 2023 (edited) The dash lights are intentionally dim like most cars of the period that did not have a dimmer. Drivers of that time would run with the lights really dim or maybe off to allow their eyes adjust to the dark and get the most good out of headlights. In the Buick forums there are some examples of using LEDs to brighten them up. The headlights aren't going to be like modern ones no matter what you do. The two things that seem to actually make a difference are the condition of the reflectors and the voltage at the bulb. Reflectors can be re-silvered. Other metals (chrome, nickel, etc.) are not bright enough. The one exception is a process called Uvira, that uses vacuum deposited aluminum with a coating of glass over it, similar to a telescope mirror. Its about 98% as good as silver, but does not tarnish so does not require maintenance. Uvira has a lot of fans in this forum. For silver, you just send the reflectors to a plater. For Uvira, you send the reflectors to a plater first and get them done in high polish nickel, then you send them to Uvira for the coating. For now, I would recommend using NOS/NORS 2330 (32/32 candlepower) bulbs. Your stock charging system is good for about 15 amps, and being a third brush system only makes max output at one particular RPM level. I am using current production bulbs. The current production (Chinese) bulbs seem to be all 2530 (50/32 candlepower) no matter how they are advertised. The charging system can't keep up with that on high beam. I verified it last year. When the charging system is not keeping up you will be running at battery voltage or lower (minus losses) rather than the charging voltage (minus losses). Charging voltage is higher and that makes an actual difference. I have not had time to experiment much with 2330, but it appears there are a lot of NOS/NORS stocks around, and they are not terribly expensive. Carry spares. The original 2320L (32/21 candlepower "long life") bulbs are not available. Neither is the similar 2320 32/21 candlepower). They are common to Harley Davidson, or so I'm told. I guess the old stocks must be all used up. I think the system could carry 2330s most of the time, so the expensive and harder to find 2320 is probably not really worth bothering with. Check your charging voltage if you can. You might need an analog meter for that(?). I would expect something like 7.6V at the battery with the car warmed up, a fully charged battery, lights off, and the engine revved up to something a little higher than fast idle. What's left is the wiring. There are 3 wires that connect to the outside of the headlight buckets (high, low, park), and there are 3 similar terminals inside. I would clean all those connections up inside and out. Be careful, don't twist the screws off. If there's doubt, I don't remember for sure, but I think the threaded holes go all the way through from the inside to the outside. If that's true, it should be possible to take the inside screws out and put penetrating oil down the holes from the inside. On my car the inside screws were brass and not stuck, while the outside screws were steel. I broke a couple of the steel ones. It was no fun getting the remains out. The ground is from the reflector, through the headlight shell, through the mounting ball, and on back through the body, the ground strap, and then the engine to get to the generator. It is even more likely to be lossy than the hot wires. It's every bit as important. Make sure the spot where the reflector meets the shell is clean, as well as the mounting ball. I also used some ox-gard on the ball, on the recommendation of another forum member who swears he gets less lossy connections. I'm not sure if it helped but it can't hurt. When I had the car apart recently I added headlight ground wires. The best way is to go from the sockets all the way to where the generator mounts. I made some completely invisible grounds, and did not go quite all the way to the bulb socket because I didn't want to drill any holes. I went from the headlight brackets to the front engine support plate. That's most of the way. If you aren't too concerned about being able to see the wires, the rear-most headlight bracket nuts are accessible under the hood. You could run wires from those down to the the engine support plate. The generator mounts on the engine support plate, so that's about as good as it gets at the generator end. There's pics of my completely invisible grounding in my water pump thread here near the bottom of page 2, though you might find the whole thread interesting. Finally, these don't aim like modern normal headlights. I recommend getting a shop manual if you don't have one. Get an original if you can rather than a reprint. From what I have seen there are a lot of originals around and the cost is not much more. The pictures will be higher quality and more useful. Also search around on the forum for "Guide Multibeam". There have been threads. The light cutoff on these is vertical, rather than horizontal, and they aim crosseyed(!) to form the beam pattern. First click of the switch is parking lights. Second click is city beam (both lights low). Third click can be high beam or beam down with the floor switch. Beaming down only dims the passenger side light. It is the one shining into oncoming traffic. Edited January 27, 2023 by Bloo (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randiego Posted January 28, 2023 Share Posted January 28, 2023 Wow, A pletora of info available on the AACA Forums for us wanting to restore a car! Especially Bloo. I have a 1936 Pontiac Master 6 Coupe that I am going to get back to restoring (my business always interrupts me from working on my Pontiac). I am doing a frame off complete and I have at my disposal a "Guru" who has three 36 coupes. He is a master and knows every detail of these cars. I will add Bloo to my list of contacts for future inquiries. When I was researching paint, I was told by a paint rep that a company in Germany makes the original colors for the 36 Pontiac. Glaskurit was expensive when I researched it a few years back and now ALL paints are exhorbitant in costs. But they have the original Pontiac colors for the 36. And it is a single stage urethane. Very durable. I am not a fan of the basecoat/clear coat system, but a lot of the shops are. I haven't checked on this paint in a while and I hope that it is still available. They match the paint EXACTLY to what GM sprayed the cars with back in 36. When you do the cooling system, be sure to pull the cooling tube out of the block. It is behind the water pump and is vital to get coolant back to No. 6 cylinder. Most times you will find the tubes are rotted away and need replacing. They are difficult to find, but there are ones out there. I found two. The coolant tube is critical for proper operation of the cooling system. The tube is critical for proper cooling. Bloo gives an indepth overview of getting to the tube. I also removed the radiator shell (along with the radiator) in one assembly. What prompted me to go to this extreme before I decided on a complete rebuild was this; I removed the freeze plug closest to the rear of the block and we used a camera scope to inspect the back of the block. That is when we discovered the rotted tube. While the engine was at the machinists, I went on a search for the tube. I was finally able to get one to complete the rebuild. If you are this far, and are not going to need to rebuild the engine, it is a good idea to knock out the freeze plugs to get in the block and do a thorough cleaning. This way you know that the block is clean and you don't have a build up of sludge that is impeding the flow of coolant to your cylinders. I was appalled at what I found in my block. After I powerwashed the block through the freeze plug ports, I replaced the freeze plugs with brass plugs. They do not corrode and will last you as long as you have the car. Also, I follow Jay Leno's garage. Two products that he sponsors are the waterless coolant. (no corrosion in the cooling system). And the remote, wireless turn signals for the rear. This unit has the control that mounts onto the steering column and the light mounts on the back of the car. No wires to run to the turn signal switch. I have this set up on my 36 Plymouth P2 Touring Sedan. Beats rolling down the window to stick my arm out to signal. Most people today don't even know what had signals are ! ! The system is powered by three AA batteries in the light and a round "camera" battery in the control. When not used, you shut the light portion off with a buton on the housing. Very efficient and easy to install. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacosta1935 Posted February 1, 2023 Share Posted February 1, 2023 (edited) hello everyone, i'm looking for a set of 16" wire wheel in 6 lug for GM cars if anyone has a set laying around I am WTB thank you, Joel Edited February 1, 2023 by jacosta619 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldschoolantiqueauto Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 On 1/4/2023 at 1:54 PM, arcticbuicks said: i have quite a few ,these are just the dead 36's saved from the crusher for a little while ......the regulator i will have Do you have any eatra early 1936 Taillights & stands? I'm looking for a pair. Any in any condition. I have a couple used lenses & bezels, not perfect but they will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldschoolantiqueauto Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 Can any one help me with one or both taillights & stands for the early 1936 Pontiac? Light buckets & stands if no complete lights? I do have a couple used bezels & chipped lenses if I need to use? These are the teardrop shaped lights... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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