31 Model 67 Window Regulator Leather washers

[JoelsBuicks]

I need to replace the leather washers/silencers that are part of my window regulators.  Each will have two washers.

 

I have the washers but the leather is untreated and I know nothing about leather.  Do I need to soak these in something?  Maybe some oil that you’d use on a shoe?

 

Thanks again for your help.

 

 

[EmTee]

Not knowing anything, I would probably try soaking one in ATF.

[usnavystgc]

I agree with soaking them in ATF, that is what is recommended for all of the leather seals I have dealt with.  I know these are not seals however, they are leather and ATF would be just as good as oil soaking them with an additional benefit of lubricating the window regulators.  

[IFDPete]

If the goal is preserving, softening and conditioning the leather,  years ago I used a product called Neatsfoot Oil from shoe care products on a pair of leather boots to soften where the shoe folded at the toes.  As I recall it worked well.  It is still around and can be purchased on Amazon and other places.

[JoelsBuicks]

12 hours ago, IFDPete said:

If the goal is preserving, softening and conditioning the leather,  years ago I used a product called Neatsfoot Oil from shoe care products on a pair of leather boots to soften where the shoe folded at the toes.  As I recall it worked well.  It is still around and can be purchased on Amazon and other places.

Thank you, I was trying to think of that product.  And to hardly answer your question,  I’m not sure what the goal is.  I would say it is to preserve the leather in a condition that allows it to function as an anti rattle barrier and to not take up water that would promote corrosion.  Now I’m wondering to myself if there is a better modern alternative like neoprene?  I haven’t even looked in the catalogues.  
 

thanks again!

[Larry Schramm]

Still used on leather cone clutches for early cars & trucks.

[Bloo]

I woudn't expect brand new leather to need anything, but a saddlemaker would know. Neatsfoot oil would be the answer for old dried out leather. My 110 year old cone clutch is drenched in neatsfoot oil.

 

[JoelsBuicks]

I’ve got see what this does!

 

[1937McBuick]

This topic couldn't have come up at a more opportune time.

 

I was at a leather shop today and got a piece of heavy weight leather.  I was going to attempt to cut my own washers.   Thus stuff is hard and stiff.   My concern was getting it soft and supple enough to get it over top of the washer(or peg head) and onto the peg.  Then have it return to form(washer shape) and be functional.    I wonder if the assembly wasn't all put together and press riveted as an assembly.....not stretching the washers over the washer/rivet assembly.   I think the leather needs to be hard and stiff enough that it doesn't "collapse" or crush too easy.    The guy told me the scrap I got wasnt tooling leather,  tooling leather is supposedly untreated and would absorb water and make it malleable.   The stuff I got is treated and won't take on much water to make it as "workable" as tooling leather.

 

I think neoprene would be a poor choice,  I think it's a synthetic rubber and be way to grippy.   A nylon type product would probably be a better substitute.

[1937McBuick]

This is what I ended up with.

If your washers are suitable you're miles ahead of me.

[1937McBuick]

JoelsBuicks,   how does the id  and od of the new and old washers compare?

[JFranklin]

I think the unit was leathered and then riveted, it looks logical.

[JoelsBuicks]

1 hour ago, 1937McBuick said:

JoelsBuicks,   how does the id  and od of the new and old washers compare?

I’ll check tomorrow and report back.  All of the stuff you mention I have questioned in my mind.  I won’t be trying to stretch the leather over the riveted assembly.  Instead I’ll grind the back of the rivet and knock it out and then weld it back on.  there are two diameters as part of the assembly.  
 

I see your point on the grippy neoprene.  I thought about nylon and figured they’d not offer enough cushion to stop a rattle.

 

I bought these leather washers many years ago from a guy who made them just for this purpose.  I’d never remember who he was.  Maybe someone else here would.

[JoelsBuicks]

55 minutes ago, JFranklin said:

I think the unit was leathered and then riveted, it looks logical.

Yes, I’m sure you are correct.  Drilling out the backside and then welding back in should be easy.  Just have to stop the heat asap.

[JFranklin]

If the rivit can be ground off, you could weld some length on the remains, re-leather and then re-peen. No need to heat any leather in this scenario. Or weld with the leather in a shallow pan of water. Just thinking outloud.

Edited December 10, 2022 by JFranklin (see edit history)

[1937McBuick]

I think you guys are right.   Grind off the backs,  knock the pegs out, put the leather on and weld back in place.   If the leathers were saturated with water before assembly they would literally have to dry before they could burn and the amount of weld required is quite small and could be cooled before the leathers had a chance to burn.  They may not even scorch.

 

My challenge may be symmetrically cutting the washers.

[EmTee]

1 hour ago, 1937McBuick said:

My challenge may be symmetrically cutting the washers.

Maybe you could make a punch tool from some pipe nipples and fittings.  Sharpen the edge of a nipple that gives you the OD you're looking for.  Then do likewise for the center hole.  If you want to get fancy, you could make the punch do both at once by assembling the two into a single tool using appropriate fittings.  I'd probably just leave it a two-step operation.

[JoelsBuicks]

Worked on this this morning.  Peg knocked out pretty easily after grinding off the back.  Pics best describe this.

 

[pont35cpe]

I replaced my `36 Buick regulator rollers with a item from chevy of the 40s. they have two sizes 1/4" and 5/16"  https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/10629/Chevrolet_Window_Regulator_Roller_And_Rivet      https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/43483/Window_Regulator_Roller_and_Rivet_516.html

[1937McBuick]

Also two leather washers on the 37.

But quite a size difference.

There is one bigger thicker washer on the thick part of the peg.

There is a smaller thinner washer on the stepped down part of the peg that is against the mechanisms arms.   That one might get kinda toasty if the pegs would need to be welded in again.   And there is NO WAY that small washer will stretch over the peg head.  The larger on MAY have,  it would need to stretch about 3/16 of an inch.

 

I wonder if having those pegs drilled and tapped and secured into place with a very shallow headed fastener would work.

[JoelsBuicks]

30 minutes ago, pont35cpe said:

I replaced my `36 Buick regulator rollers with a item from chevy of the 40s. they have two sizes 1/4" and 5/16"  https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/10629/Chevrolet_Window_Regulator_Roller_And_Rivet      https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/43483/Window_Regulator_Roller_and_Rivet_516.html

The 5/16 would work very well as the hole left measures .325.  I should have known to check other GM sources first.  Soapbox alert:  If I were running a parts outlet for a certain make, I would try my best to learn about suitable substitute parts and try to offer them, even if they require the asterisk!  
 

thanks for posting!

[JoelsBuicks]

4 minutes ago, 1937McBuick said:

That one might get kinda toasty if the pegs would need to be welded in again. 

I’m going to give it a try.  The bulk of the heat transfer will be thru the mass of steel.  I’ll get a wet rag on it within a couple seconds and the cooking will end.  I’m betting on no noticeable burning, we’ll see and I’ll report back.

[JoelsBuicks]

Ok, done and no burning and no water except for a wet rag for that quick quench.  Not even a bad smell.

 

[pont35cpe]

2 hours ago, JoelsBuicks said:

The 5/16 would work very well as the hole left measures .325.  I should have known to check other GM sources first.  Soapbox alert:  If I were running a parts outlet for a certain make, I would try my best to learn about suitable substitute parts and try to offer them, even if they require the asterisk!  
 

thanks for posting!

When i did mine, they only had the 1/4" size( or only one i was aware of). I welded up the holes on the regulator arms(3 rollers on my coupe regulator), and re-drilled, and i did weld the stud to the arm, had to be careful to keep from melting the roller.