Jerry Shuck Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 I had one hell of a time sliding the power brake booster push rod off of the pedal fulcrum shaft when I took it off the firewall. Had the booster rebuilt and now I'm having a much worse time re-installing the booster push rod onto the pedal shaft. The push rod I.D. is .045" and the shaft O.D. is .040. Can not tap it on or compress with channel locks. Is this a common problem? Any tricks that I am unaware of? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jframe Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 It took two of us to get the booster back on my '65. I was the lucky one; I was up top wiggiling it back and forth, while my buddy was standing on his head under the dash fighting the push rod. Get some help, and be patient (not my strong suit) it will go on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Shuck Posted November 2, 2022 Author Share Posted November 2, 2022 I'll bet on the assembly line they had the pedal assembly loose and mounted the booster before tightening up the pedal assembly. I may grind some clearance around the firewall hole. It's this little @#$% that drive me nuts! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted November 2, 2022 Share Posted November 2, 2022 1 hour ago, Gerald Shuck said: I had one hell of a time sliding the power brake booster push rod off of the pedal fulcrum shaft when I took it off the firewall. Had the booster rebuilt and now I'm having a much worse time re-installing the booster push rod onto the pedal shaft. The push rod I.D. is .045" and the shaft O.D. is .040. Can not tap it on or compress with channel locks. Is this a common problem? Any tricks that I am unaware of? Push the brake pedal toward the firewall far enough to install the pin without engaging the booster mounting studs into the firewall holes. That will allow you to wiggle the booster around to make installing the pin easier. After the pin is installed push the booster studs through their holes in the firewall to complete installation. Tom Mooney 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Shuck Posted November 2, 2022 Author Share Posted November 2, 2022 Roger. I believe that the entire pedal assembly could be shifted too far outboard from the factory. The face of the pedal shaft race is too far outboard...past the centerline of the booster. Thank you though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Shuck Posted November 3, 2022 Author Share Posted November 3, 2022 Grind to fit paint to match. I ground down about 1/4" and it became a one man operation...almost I had to yell at my wife a bit to make me feel like a Man in control. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted November 3, 2022 Share Posted November 3, 2022 I have found that all accessory mats must be removed from the Driver's Side to allow the brake pedal to go down and as far forward as possible. Then the booster will slide to the outside of the car and off the brake pin as the booster mounting studs clear along the front face of the firewall. A second person inside to guide the booster eye along the pin and off is a big help. Otherwise one person can do it by going back and forth between in the car and under the hood, moving the booster along in small steps. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XframeFX Posted November 4, 2022 Share Posted November 4, 2022 On 11/2/2022 at 6:47 PM, Gerald Shuck said: Grind to fit paint to match. I ground down about 1/4" and it became a one man operation. I just did this in the summer. A $1000 long distance ripoff for a painted booster and SS Sleeved OE master cylinder within Canada. Turns-out, there are a couple shops that could've done the job near my home. Face-to-Face, they wouldn't dare hold my parts for ransom. My floor mat stayed in place with the pedal to the floor. I recall struggling a bit but manage on my own. I do remember having to dis-engage the Electro-Cruise cut-out on the Brake Pedal to do it. The firewall gasket appears much better than mine. I recommend replacing the gasket with RTV as a paper gasket would absorb moisture dribbling down from the cowl. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Shuck Posted December 1, 2022 Author Share Posted December 1, 2022 I had Harmon Classic Brakes in Georgia rebuild the booster. Did a fine job, looks good in "original like" silver paint (not cad plating) and works well. Expensive but they got the job done. Reasonably good turn around time. Good communication with their tech dude. Naturally had to adjust the brake light switch after install. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC1968Riviera Posted December 6, 2022 Share Posted December 6, 2022 (edited) On 12/1/2022 at 2:10 PM, Jerry Shuck said: I had Harmon Classic Brakes in Georgia rebuild the booster. Did a fine job, looks good in "original like" silver paint (not cad plating) and works well. Expensive but they got the job done. Reasonably good turn around time. Good communication with their tech dude. Naturally had to adjust the brake light switch after install. Harmon Classic Brakes rebuilt and replated my booster also. Taking the old booster out and putting this one in was a 1.5-person job (the wife held the new booster in place while I attached it to the brake pedal arm and attached the nuts to the bolts). I was grateful it was a reasonably easy job I could do myself! Edited December 6, 2022 by NC1968Riviera (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron65 Posted December 6, 2022 Share Posted December 6, 2022 That's good news: My '63 booster is out at Harmon's as we speak. I went with them because they rebuilt my T-Bird's booster last winter and did a good job, and their communication is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Shuck Posted December 8, 2022 Author Share Posted December 8, 2022 My original booster was a silver colored nickel cad which Harmon could not replicate (gold only) so I had them shoot it with silver paint. Stops on a dime now. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted December 8, 2022 Share Posted December 8, 2022 On 11/2/2022 at 4:24 PM, Jerry Shuck said: I'll bet on the assembly line they had the pedal assembly loose and mounted the booster before tightening up the pedal assembly. I may grind some clearance around the firewall hole. It's this little @#$% that drive me nuts! No actually when it came time for that procedure the line was shut down for an hour and everybody went to lunch except the two guys with giant muscles like Arnold Schwarzenegger that were assigned that task. These two guys were the highest paid employees in the plant. The third highest paid guy on the line was the heater core tech. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jframe Posted December 9, 2022 Share Posted December 9, 2022 16 hours ago, Seafoam65 said: No actually when it came time for that procedure the line was shut down for an hour and everybody went to lunch except the two guys with giant muscles like Arnold Schwarzenegger that were assigned that task. These two guys were the highest paid employees in the plant. The third highest paid guy on the line was the heater core tech. I figure the wiper motor guy was in there somewhere too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Shuck Posted December 9, 2022 Author Share Posted December 9, 2022 The heater core Draftsman was promoted to Director Of Engineering. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XframeFX Posted December 11, 2022 Share Posted December 11, 2022 On 12/8/2022 at 12:10 PM, Jerry Shuck said: My original booster was a silver colored nickel cad which Harmon could not replicate (gold only) so I had them shoot it with silver paint. aah, nicer than my black. Plating is over rated for what it costs. Very Nice! Harmon must've blanked off your inlet port and punched a hole in the forward cap for a grommet and integral check valve. Much better! No change with my rebuild but I am assuming no more vacuum leak. I measured my vacuum only after the my mega dollar rebuild, no before measurement. So, as a work around, I bypassed the power booster and my vacuum measurement appears unchanged at idle. I still do not have reserve power assisted pumps after the engine is shut down. My external check valve seems to function with a mouth test but would like to replace the 60 year old item. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Shuck Posted December 13, 2022 Author Share Posted December 13, 2022 Harmon installed a brand new check valve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XframeFX Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 (edited) 2 hours ago, Jerry Shuck said: Harmon installed a brand new check valve. Jerry, your Riv is a '63? If so, was a hole punched and the original port on the backside blocked? The straight thru hose fitting fits better than a 90° angle check valve in your installation. Edited December 14, 2022 by XframeFX (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Shuck Posted December 14, 2022 Author Share Posted December 14, 2022 Sorry, don't understand your question. The booster came back as it left with a new check valve and the rebuild/repaint. All is fine so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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