Fuel hand pump - opinions please

[Hans1965]

Dear all,

 

All of my old cars with carburetors can after sitting for one or two weeks only be started by taking off the air filter and pouring some gas into the carburetor. Alternatively I installed electrical pumps or I opened the Carter carburetor on the side and used a syringe to fill the float. This is a very common problem with modern fuel, I know.

I hate that because all of my cars run fine and only need the additional help for starting. 

 

My question is, there are hand pumps available, essentially a rubber bulb with in and outlet and a valve preventing the gas to flow back into the tank. 

 

These are usually used for transferring liquids from or into a container, i cannot find any for permanent installation in an engine compartment.

 

Can from your point of view these be permanently build into the car close to the carburetor? I would still need to open the hood and use this thing, but it spares me to take off the air filter and pour gas into the carburetor, as this is a hazard in itself. 

 

Is there any hand pump that you recommend?

 

Thanks for your thoughts on the topic. 

Best,

Hans 

[Mikefit]

Yes I have the same problem 

I remember back in the 60/70s G M used a small filter where, the fuel line entered the carburetor that had a small rubber set of mistrust was to keep fuel from draining back should say rubber lips not mistrust

Maybe some one could retrofit it as add on 

My other thought was to install a small tank in the fuel line that would fill when the car was running and close the valve on it still would have pressure in   before restarting weeks later open valve fuel would flow to carburetor refilling the float bowl or would it just push it back to the tank

Other thought is its the heat that boils the fuel off not the drain back 

Edited July 28, 2022 by Mikefit
Spelling (see edit history)

[Mark Shaw]

Hans,

• Your list of cars indicates large motors that soak up heat while running and radiate heat that boils out the ramaining fuel in the float bowl when parked. 
• In my opinion, your best solution to refilling the float bowl is an electric fuel pump located near the fuel tank and powered through the ignition switch with an additional manual on-off switch. 
• Turn on the ignition and the fuel pump for 30 seconds before starting your car. 
• Turn off the fuel pump when it starts, and repeat each time you start your car. 
• The electric fuel pump will also serve to eliminate Vapor lock on hot days or when driving at high altitude. 

Edited July 28, 2022 by Mark Shaw (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

Outboard motors use a bulb pump. It's about the only kind I would trust for a permanent installation.

[Hans1965]

2 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:

Outboard motors use a bulb pump. It's about the only kind I would trust for a permanent installation.

It is something like the attached, right? I do not trust this thing too much. 

[Hans1965]

6 hours ago, Mark Shaw said:

Hans,

• Your list of cars indicates large motors that soak up heat while running and radiate heat that boils out the ramaining fuel in the float bowl when parked. 
• In my opinion, your best solution to refilling the float bowl is an electric fuel pump located near the fuel tank and powered through the ignition switch with an additional manual on-off switch. 
• Turn on the ignition and the fuel pump for 30 seconds before starting your car. 
• Turn off the fuel pump when it starts, and repeat each time you start your car. 
• The electric fuel pump will also serve to eliminate Vapor lock on hot days or when driving at high altitude. 

I have done that on two cars and that works perfectly, but I'd like to have a manual solution to the problem, not an electrical. Honestly, the ticking of my 140 USD Hardi pump is totally annoying. There must be something better. 

[Hans1965]

7 hours ago, Mikefit said:

Yes I have the same problem 

I remember back in the 60/70s G M used a small filter where, the fuel line entered the carburetor that had a small rubber set of mistrust was to keep fuel from draining back should say rubber lips not mistrust

Maybe some one could retrofit it as add on 

My other thought was to install a small tank in the fuel line that would fill when the car was running and close the valve on it still would have pressure in   before restarting weeks later open valve fuel would flow to carburetor refilling the float bowl or would it just push it back to the tank

Other thought is its the heat that boils the fuel off not the drain back 

On the Carter carburetors is a plug for the build in fuel filter metal gate. Maybe that can be used to install something, i don't know. 

[Hans1965]

Today I wanted to start my 56 Caddy after over a year. I had forgotten to fill the tank last year and it was almost empty. Big mistake. Even with priming both 4 barrel carbs multiple times it is not starting due to the fact that there is no fuel coming from the tank. Rust? Clocked line? Fuel pump? Another Odyssee waiting for me.... Work on these cars never stops, right? 😂

 

[60FlatTop]

8 hours ago, Hans1965 said:

only be started by taking off the air filter and pouring some gas into the carburetor.

"Only" is the part that would bother me. The bowl should fill with a bit of cranking and once in the carb it should start. There are check valves in the fuel pumps to keep fuel in the lines. Something is not right.

 

First check your chokes and be sure they set properly. Next check the rubber hoses. There may be one at the fuel tank that people rarely check. Check them all, even short sections. When the hoses get old they can suck air when there is a vacuum on them yet not leak fuel noticeably while setting.

 

I just saw your fresh post. That Caddy has a lot of hose leading to the pump to go bad. While it is running hold a light to the fuel bowl and look for bubbles. Good chance you can create some by giving it some throttle blips.

 

Mentioning the Caddy, put a vacuum gauge on the manifold when you have the problem. A worn cam may not open the valves enough to get a good vacuum. Also causes less performance than you think it should have.

Edited July 28, 2022 by 60FlatTop (see edit history)

[Hans1965]

3 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:

That Caddy has a lot of hose leading to the pump to go bad.

Only checked the ones in the engine compartment. Need to check the one at the tank, too. Good idea. 2 years back I had that problem on one of my 49 Buicks. Just 3 inches of bad rubber. 

[Hans1965]

14 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:

Mentioning the Caddy, put a vacuum gauge on the manifold when you have the problem. A worn cam may not open the valves enough to get a good vacuum. Also causes less performance than you think it should have.

I will check that out! Thanks.

 

The engine wants to run, but as soon as the floats are empty it dies. The engine is worn out, I guess, but I used the car 3 years as a daily driver in summer, ran perfectly. Absolutely reliable. Then I had to replace the exhaust and the guy at the workshop (I have no lift) asked me , shall I fine tune the engine to make it run like a Cadillac should run? The idiot in me said yes and the next two years this guy tried his best...... At the end it ran okay, the new exhaust is way too loud and after a week of sitting it needs priming to start..... A dram car became a car I rarely drive....

 

Of course the car is at a place where I can hardly get under it to check the rubber lines. 

[DFeeney]

All things considered I just use spray either when if want to start something that has been sitting.   I don't have to worry about open gasoline or spilling it to make a fire hazard.  Always make sure to put the air cleaner back on when cranking  to avoid a back fire and have a fire extinguisher handy if a fire does start.  You can only pour gasoline into a carb so many times before something  unforeseen happens, 

[Rusty_OToole]

2 hours ago, Hans1965 said:

I will check that out! Thanks.

 

The engine wants to run, but as soon as the floats are empty it dies. The engine is worn out, I guess, but I used the car 3 years as a daily driver in summer, ran perfectly. Absolutely reliable. Then I had to replace the exhaust and the guy at the workshop (I have no lift) asked me , shall I fine tune the engine to make it run like a Cadillac should run? The idiot in me said yes and the next two years this guy tried his best...... At the end it ran okay, the new exhaust is way too loud and after a week of sitting it needs priming to start..... A dram car became a car I rarely drive....

 

Of course the car is at a place where I can hardly get under it to check the rubber lines. 

You need to get the factory repair manual and tune everything to factory specs. Starting with a compression test. If you have good compression and the carburetor and ignition are working correctly it will start instantly and run like a Rolls with a jet engine. Don't go getting ideas of your own. Chances are that is what loused it up in the first place - your so called mechanic thought he knew more about the car than the people who made it.

[Mark Gregush]

I read the suggestion to use an electric fuel pump just to prime the carburetor, not have it run full time. Not that uncommon to do a setup that way esp for cars that sit for a while. 

[Shootey]

A friend has a Lotus Elite with a Coventry Climax engine. It has a built in finger pump on or near the carburetor for priming. I don’t know offhand what make of carb it is.  It is not a Weber. 

[Hans1965]

23 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

There may be one at the fuel tank that people rarely check. Check them all, even short sections

No rubber fuel line at the tank. Hard line only. So it is down to the rubber line from just above the front axle to the pump. Check it tomorrow. 

[Hans1965]

Disconnected the rubber line from the fuel pump. Put a 100 ml syringe on the rubber line and flushed the fuel line. There was something that I got loose. Running fine again.  

[DFeeney]

Hello Hans, Glad to hear your car is now running,  Remember what you knocked loose is still in the gas tank and like a "Ex-Wife" can come back to haunt you.

[Hans1965]

2 hours ago, DFeeney said:

Remember what you knocked loose is still in the gas tank and like a "Ex-Wife" can come back to haunt you.

I am sure it is dissolving over time. No, of course I am not!!! You are right. Thanks. Going to make a test drive tomorrow. If it stalls at some point at least I have an idea what to do. Happy it is not the fuel pump. 

[60FlatTop]

Murphy says "Put a 100 ML syringe in e trunk and you will never need it".

 

Or should I say Schultz?