edinmass Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 2/3 of the restoration shops in this country can’t even come close to the work your doing at home in your own garage. Impressive what can be accomplished when people take their time, think things out, and make a 100 percent effort to do their best work. Bravo! 15 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
31nash880 Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 Looking great. Enjoy following your adventure. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cxgvd Posted January 15, 2023 Share Posted January 15, 2023 Friday, September 8th, OCF, meet you there. Gary 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 16, 2023 Author Share Posted January 16, 2023 (edited) I cleaned out the remaining grease from the driveshaft bores that feed the u-joints. Dirty job but I didn't want any old grease getting pumped into the cleaned u-joints. I rifle cleaning rod with some thinner soaked rags worked well. Rinsed and repeated until they came out clean... Once clean I needed to make a new retaining washer for the end of the u-joint. These back the leather washers that keep dirt out of the shaft. I lost the rear one this summer when I took the joint apart. I looked high and low and for the life of me I could not find it. I even combed the area outside I had been working in with a magnet, no luck. I used the front one as a pattern and laid out a new one on some 20ga steel, then cut and filed it to shape. I stopped getting any pictures here for a bit as it wasn't a pleasant hour or two in the shop. I spent way too much time dealing with this rear u-joint. This thing just fought me at every step. It fits really tight to the drive shaft so it's a fight to get it on or off, which I had to do 5 times. The first time I found with the washers in place the shaft would not seat deep enough so I trimmer the leather washer thinner. Nope, still no go. I went around with this a few times trying to figure this out, there is a pin that goes through the shaft and u-joint so it has a set position. The problem is there isn't room for the leather washer at the end when installed, it just doesn't work. I looked closely at the pin hole and that doesn't seem right either, the shaft and u-joint holes don't line up 100% even though I rotated it 180 degrees just to be sure I didn't have the shaft in backwards. I'm wondering if this shaft or joint is a replacement to the other, it would explain the poor alignment of the locking pin. What I ended up doing was sliding the leather washers further up the shaft to the larger splined part even though they do not go there. It looks good from the outside but that's not how it's supposed to be according to the Nash books. What I would like to do is check the shaft for length at the front u-joint and see how much play I have and relocate the rear u-joint back 1/4" if possible. I have to wait until the back of the transmission is finished for that though. I finally had enough so I set it aside for the time being. A dog walk later I was back at it but this time it was the speedo cable. It's a pretty heavy duty unit made by Stewart, no kinks in the armored cable and it did turn but it took more force than I was comfy with. Always a sure sign there is old nasty grease or something in there! I was not disappointed, What I found was some nearly petrified pus colored goo that had long since ceased lubricating. I had to cut it off with a knife and chisel it out with a tiny screwdriver, thinner wouldn't touch the big lumps. Lucky for me the cable was in great shape once cleaned outside and inside. These two little washers at the top that take the weight of the cable were completely goo'd up but cleaned up nice. I had some chain lube form my bike, the stuff is thicker and more clingy than normal stuff so I sprayed that in the cable, let it sit for a bit, then blew some compressed air through it so make sure it got coated well. It turns much better now. I think we were close to the the cable twisting itself into a knot, all that goo on the speedo end would have been putting some strain down the entire length of the wound cable. I cleaned the outside of the cable also, the section under the floor boards was pretty caked with the super hard petrified dirt/oil/grease combo we are so familiar with. Cleaned, you can see the details once hidden. I had pop the cover plate and carve the linoleum under the floorboard bracket a bit for clearance when removing the cable but nothing major. Installation was smoother with clearance already made. It was nice to see it installed and nicer to not end the day on that pesky u-joint! Notice the original factory high-tech Nash speedo retaining strap! Edited January 16, 2023 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 16, 2023 Author Share Posted January 16, 2023 12 hours ago, cxgvd said: Friday, September 8th, OCF, meet you there. Gary Yes, I hope so! I see the Henry Ford has a notice that info is coming soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 16, 2023 Author Share Posted January 16, 2023 On 1/14/2023 at 8:26 PM, edinmass said: 2/3 of the restoration shops in this country can’t even come close to the work your doing at home in your own garage. Impressive what can be accomplished when people take their time, think things out, and make a 100 percent effort to do their best work. Bravo! Kind words Ed! In a perfect world I'd have my own restoration shop but then I'd have to deal with customers🤪 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
31nash880 Posted January 16, 2023 Share Posted January 16, 2023 Any chance you took pics of the speedo cable ends? Mine is missing and no idea what to look for. Thanks, beautiful work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saari Posted January 16, 2023 Share Posted January 16, 2023 Good work! Just want to say, i enjoy reading every new post of your build. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 16, 2023 Author Share Posted January 16, 2023 8 hours ago, 31nash880 said: Any chance you took pics of the speedo cable ends? Mine is missing and no idea what to look for. Thanks, beautiful work. PM sent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 18, 2023 Author Share Posted January 18, 2023 (edited) Mail call! I got my NOS generator brushes from our own Tom V here on the forum... Thanks Tom! I'll turn down the armature this spring. My new screws also showed up, time to swap out those pesky non period correct Philips head and brass wood screws for the correct slotted, stainless type. Nothing bugs me more than incorrect fasteners! Last but not least a pair of gas caps.... I've been hunting for a replacement gas cap for almost a year now with no luck. The one on the car is the right diameter but the wrong thread, it barely holds on and is unsafe allowing leaking. I was unable to find one like it but ran across a listing on Epay for some NOS "Monmouth" accessory caps patented in '25. The seller only listed the outer diameter and no thread pitch and they were different sizes so I wasn't sure at $75 a few months ago. I happened upon them again last week and they were down to $13 so I bid and won, hoping to use one of the cap and chains to make a new one that fit. Of course I gave them a try to see if they worked and it was a no go on the first cap, too big... However, I gotta say I couldn't have been more surprised if they had fallen out of the sky and landed on my face and started to wiggle... the boxed one fit! Aside from a new gasket and some liquid sealant where it threads onto the filler neck the gas cap problem is solved. It only took 98 years to get to my doorstep, lol. Plus I even get a chain to keep those little desperado thrill seekers from stealing it when I'm not around. In other news I dropped my transmission output flange at the machine shop today and they said come pick it up tomorrow, no long wait so that's good! With that back I'll be able to finish the parking brake assembly and install the transmission U-joint this weekend hopefully. Edited January 18, 2023 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 19, 2023 Author Share Posted January 19, 2023 Radiator is back and leak free... there were no leaks. He couldn't get it to leak even under some mild pressure, twice. Good news for me! I battled Ferndale construction traffic back-ups and just made it there before closing, nice guy and a third generation in the business. The nominal fee he charged me to clean, test, and paint the radiator was very reasonable. All I can figure is that the coolant that leaked out around the top came from the hose connection leaking and it just never dried up all the way. The guy selling it told me that one day it just started leaking and they had tightened up the hose clamp at the top in an effort to stop the leak. Looks like the story was true on this occasion. The radiator guy said the core is in great shape. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 That's got to be a huge relief. I have one for the Mitchell but it's beyond being saved. I'll probably have to make that as well but needing it is such a long way off I live with the distant hope of finding one I can use...not very likely though. Even if I did find one there is just about no chance it would be good enough to use. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 20, 2023 Author Share Posted January 20, 2023 8 hours ago, JV Puleo said: That's got to be a huge relief. I have one for the Mitchell but it's beyond being saved. I'll probably have to make that as well but needing it is such a long way off I live with the distant hope of finding one I can use...not very likely though. Even if I did find one there is just about no chance it would be good enough to use. It is! I'd love to get it into the shell this weekend and be ready to install in the car but we'll see, Murphy is always waiting to pounce. I don't enjoy working with radiators one bit, the only part I like is when they're done. Unfortunately I have a model T that needs a radiator re-cored at the very least, more fun to come... I hope you find one for your project, or maybe just a re-core if you tanks are ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 I doubt the tanks are good. It was a cheap radiator to begin with and there are a lot of ham-handed lumps of solder all over it, not to mention a few broken tubes. I'm thinking of making a true honeycomb radiator. Actually, I've worked out most of the details except I don't know how the sides were sealed and none of the period books in my collection tell me. One ting I've notices is that the earlier a car is, the more likely you can think of a way to replicate that part. All of these early cars were built before the specialized machines that made mass production really effective were invented. So...even though it often takes time, more things are possible. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 20, 2023 Author Share Posted January 20, 2023 1 hour ago, JV Puleo said: I doubt the tanks are good. It was a cheap radiator to begin with and there are a lot of ham-handed lumps of solder all over it, not to mention a few broken tubes. I'm thinking of making a true honeycomb radiator. Actually, I've worked out most of the details except I don't know how the sides were sealed and none of the period books in my collection tell me. One ting I've notices is that the earlier a car is, the more likely you can think of a way to replicate that part. All of these early cars were built before the specialized machines that made mass production really effective were invented. So...even though it often takes time, more things are possible. I would definitely look forward to see your process for building a radiator, it would be an interesting project to see! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 22, 2023 Author Share Posted January 22, 2023 (edited) Murphy stopped by the shop... I was all set to install the transmission output flange I got back from the machine shop a few days ago, even painted it Friday night. While double checking the relationship between the output flange and parking brake drum I saw this in the parts book: I'm missing another part, a rear seal. Mr Nash I though we were friends, why you gotta go surprising my like that. Most likely it was just a rope seal, however the housing may be an issue. I'm going to have to find something I can use, maybe a regular lip seal... the trick though is it has to be deep enough to grip on the outside of the housing. Or maybe cut the seal out of a housing and install a rope seal and bang the thing on there... the possibilities are as many as 2 or 3! Edited January 22, 2023 by Lahti35 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 22, 2023 Author Share Posted January 22, 2023 (edited) Unperturbed (ok, a little perturbed), I moved onto cleaning up the floorboards. The were pretty grungy. I would have gone with black linoleum myself to hide dirt but grey is what I got with the car. I tried some cleaner first but it had little effect, the stuff was really in there. The dirt, grease and coffee stains came out mostly with some mild scotch pad action. All cleaned up with the nickel fittings polished too... One thing I can't stand are Philips head screws on old stuff so I traded them out for the new stainless ones I got earlier in the week. Much better! Edited February 1, 2023 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 22, 2023 Author Share Posted January 22, 2023 I worked on the radiator too, getting it installed in the shell. I polished the bad spots again and got it as good as I could, bolting in the radiator and running new lace around the shell. I set it in place on the chassis and added the motometer for fun. New lacing went in easy, these little tabs get bent to secure it on the radiator shell. The cowl lacing was also shot so I peeled it off, it was in various states of decay... Once I pulled the nails of of the cowl the new stuff was ready to go on. The new stuff went on without much fuss. I was careful to use the original holes as my new nails were a bit longer so they had plenty of bite. I pulled it tight and offset the new nail on the lacing a bit so when it found the old hole it pulled it even tighter. It came out nice, no bulges. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 22, 2023 Author Share Posted January 22, 2023 (edited) The last bit of fun for the day was the water pump, I'll just let the pictures tell the story here... Sometimes you just need a good laugh and honestly that was my first reaction. What a mess, this is going to take some serious problem solving. Good thing it's winter in Michigan, not much else to do! Anyway it's starting to look like a car again with the radiator and motometer setting there. Enjoy this under-exposed, blurry picture from my darkened garage, only one sunny day in the last 6 weeks😎 Edited January 22, 2023 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted January 22, 2023 Share Posted January 22, 2023 At least you had some pieces left to braze together for an impeller! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 22 hours ago, dibarlaw said: At least you had some pieces left to braze together for an impeller! Hopefully I can find a better one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 (edited) I spent some time digging around last night looking for info on that seal but found that there is no seal on the early cars, it's an addition for the later cars only. This was confirmed by another Nash enthusiast this AM. The only lubrication retention device on the rear output shaft is a spiral groove cut into the rear bearing casting. When I first took my transmission apart those grooves were packed with gunk and it was leaking well! We'll see how much it leaks now that the grooves are clear. Since there was no fake seal holding me up I installed the output flange assembly... ...And promptly disassembled the flange assembly as I forgot the emergency brake drum has to go on first as it sits behind the flange. Oops! Any worries I had about the flange not being on there tight were dispelled when I had to use a pulled to remove it, gotta love a tapered fit! Back together and ready for the U-joint. It's a bit of a challenge to get the U-joint installed. The U-joint has to be held in place, the brake drum held tight against the back of the flange, the holes lined up while the bolts are pushed in, and a washer and bolt threaded on the end. It took a bit but I got it in the end. Next up was installing the emergency brake assembly. I greased the shaft, installed the pins, and bolted the retainer in place. I loosely set the brake up, I'll fine tune it when the weather warms up. Just a reminder of where it's come from since this summer... Edited February 1, 2023 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 I replace the seal in the aftermarket gas tank as the old one was hard and brittle, it looked suspiciously like asbestos sandwiched between something else so it had to go. Last up was adding some sealant on the threads of the tank and cap to keep it leak free, then it was screwed on and the excess wiped off. This stuff dries slow so it should be ready by May! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 23, 2023 Author Share Posted January 23, 2023 I looked into the brake equalizer last night also, it didn't seem right the way it was put together when I got the car. Taken apart I ended up with these goodies and a tortured spring. Looking through my books I found that it WAS put together wrong. You can clearly see that the spring and washer go over the wedge piece, not under the pedal casting tightened to death. I found a very similar spring in terms of resistance and wire diameter at the hardware store but the ends needed to be ground flat. I few minutes with a grinder it was all set. I put it together and found the brake pedal MUCH more friendly to use. Before when you depressed the pedal you were greeted with clunking as the slack in the assembly tightened. Now everything is held just tight enough to keep all the rods and cranks in contact with each other and ready to go. The correctly assembled brake equalizer looks like this: I set the floor boards back in temporarily to check the fit around the shifter and lock and the trim plate is off somewhat, I'll have to move it up and over 1/4" otherwise I can't screw the shifter retainer in. It must have gone in slightly off when a previous owner redid the linoleum. I also replaced the brass wood screws someone installed around the front seat retaining trim. I like boats but the stainless screws look much better. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted January 25, 2023 Author Share Posted January 25, 2023 (edited) I don't get much done during the week most times due to other obligations but I try to do a few things between weekends... I got my delayed order of 600W lube and filled the trans through the shifter hole to within 1" of the fill hole on the side. Setting it in front of the heat gun for a few minutes made it run real good, I ran across that tip here on the forum and it's a good one! Next up was the emergency brake retainer. When I got the car the E-brake lever was held on by a steel collar with one hole that had a roll pin driven into it. This was a bad idea as you could neither remove the roll pin nor drive it through to get it out. I ended up having to grind down the collar at the spot with the flush pin until I got to the top of the E-brake shaft. I could then slide the collar off. The remnants of the roll pin could now be driven out the shaft as the collar wasn't blocking it once removed. I found that a metric washer was just the right ID and OD and almost the right thickness, some file action took care of that issue quickly. I'll bend the cotter pin when I'm ready to keep the brake handle in there but this setup can actually be removed without grinding, sometimes I wonder! I had a few minutes before dinner and was able to pull apart the water pump impeller much easier than I thought possible. Turns out the shaft looks good with no scoring where the packing contacts it. The impeller looks even worse now that I have it out. This thing must have lost 25% of it's original material from corrosion, it's pretty thin in spots. Some nice brazing there too, whatever it takes! I've been talking with a forum member about 3D imaging this thing in an effort to reproduce it and they are willing to work on this project so that's good news. It's a very interesting process and I'm excited about working with them! Edited January 25, 2023 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted January 25, 2023 Share Posted January 25, 2023 (edited) Be sure to make a few impellers so you have some trade bait in the event you need other parts. Also, if you cast three you can pick the best casting for your car. It’s also a nice back up in the event of a machining problem that turns the casting to junk. Been there, done that. I usually paint the inside of the pump with the casting sealer made for them……the name escapes me right now. Expensive, but a permanent solution. Edited January 25, 2023 by edinmass (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted February 5, 2023 Author Share Posted February 5, 2023 Like most of our northern forum members I've been avoiding the cold this week, it's been bad! Today it climbed back into the 20's and it was to return to the unheated portion of my shop... Last week before it got cold I started working on the top floor board, I removed it to open up the clearance next to the brake pedal as it's dragging there. The floorboards are the originals so it's kind of a mystery why it's like that, the pedal arm is not bent either. Once I pulled it out I marked the material to remove and cut it off. You can see looking at it that the left space is shorter then the right from the centerline of the clearance arch at the top. Weird, but there it is. It doesn't line up with the pedal clearance cut in the floor board below it either as seen in the above pic. While I was in there I noticed the gas pedal bracket was installed in a really cheesy fashion... It's just flopped over the edge trim and held on by two machine screws that and some lock nuts on the back, close enough for government work boys! I ended up pulling the linoleum off and drilling out all the funky holes and previous repairs to accept dowel rods and glue. Once they were dry I sanded them all down and repainted the floorboard. I also cut the trim to accept the gas pedal bracket... Assembly was straight forward with new linoleum as the old stuff was so brittle it cracked on me. I also changed the philips head screws to slotted as I did on the other floorboards. All done! The new linoleum is lighter than the old but it is what it is, I'd rather have no cracks with the new stuff. I also shortened the piece of linoleum some as the old piece stuck out 2" past the wood. I think they did this in an attempt to hide the seam between the floorboard and firewall but it's a tight joint and just looked weird. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted February 5, 2023 Author Share Posted February 5, 2023 (edited) I'm back on my old friend the driveshaft. In a previous post I mentioned that there is no room on the splined shaft for the leather seals. It looks ok assembled BUT the seals are riding over the larger splines at the top, they are not supposed to be there according to the Nash parts book. They should be on the same diameter splines as the u-joint. When I originally pulled this u-joint off the shaft it had no leather seals, only the steel retaining washer that is the same shape as the seals. There is a pin that goes through the splined part of the u-joint and drive shaft locking them together at the rear axle end of the shaft. This pin was bent and very difficult to drive out. I also noticed that the holes in the shaft and the u-joint don't line up very well. It can be assembled at 0 or 180 degrees but neither makes the holes line up well. No telling what has gone on over the last 98 years but I'm wondering if the rear u-joint is not original and has been replaced at some point. I pulled the joint apart again (5th time) and mocked it up where it needs to be to give clearance for the leather seals and metal washer. There is no way the current setup was going to all work together so I welded up the old holes in the shaft. You can see the green mark about 3/8" further down the shaft where the new holes needed to be. Some grinding and file work smoothed things out and made the splined shaft fit back into the u-joint. Before I pinned the u-joint onto the driveshaft I put the shaft back in place under the car and measured the space at the transmission u-joint. I found plenty of clearance available which made me even more suspicious of the rear u-joint assembly as purchased. I think this should cure the leather seal problem and keep the lubricant inside the joint where it belongs. I'll pin the rear u-joint and driveshaft together this week and get it ready to install once the leaking rear seal is fixed... Progress! Edited February 5, 2023 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted February 5, 2023 Author Share Posted February 5, 2023 (edited) The leaking rear seal... The rear axle input assembly feels a tad loose and is leaking well! It's been leaking for some time judging by the buildup of gunk under the car. I figured there was a felt seal in there somewhere and that it had to come apart to get to it. What a fight! Another battle with a tapered fit ensued and I won after bringing out the big guns. After removing the retaining nut and it's keeper I attached the puller (with bolts) through the nut keeper holes. I started slow with the impact wrench on the puller but got no where even after cranking up the speed and tension. Out came the torch to heat the flange in hopes it would let go but even that took a fair amount of time to work it's magic. Finally with a bang it shot 3" off the shaft and landed on the floor, the exact reason I was off to the side and not in front of it! Success! Once that was off I was able remove the seal retainer. One thing to note is that there is gear lube leaking out the front with the seal off. The axle was filled until it leaked out the filler hole. Dropping the level 1" as sometimes discussed on the forum would keep it from always being against the seal at rest, I think I will remove some as it may be traveling down the axle tubes as well and resting against those seals too. With all the parts cleaned up it was easy to see the seal retainer's seals. The inner seal is felt as I suspected. The outer seal appears to be rope. I'll have to make my own felt seal I'm sure, luckily there is some good info about making them here on the forum posted recently on the 1910 Mitchell thread by @JV Puleo. The OD seal may be able to be substituted for an O-ring, I'll see what I can come up with. I'd like to have this all back together with the driveshaft installed in the next two weeks, I'll give it my best shot. Edited February 5, 2023 by Lahti35 (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted February 5, 2023 Share Posted February 5, 2023 What size is the OD seal? I just picked up a box of 3/8 square style packing/seals. It looks like your old stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted February 5, 2023 Author Share Posted February 5, 2023 1 hour ago, JFranklin said: What size is the OD seal? I just picked up a box of 3/8 square style packing/seals. It looks like your old stuff. I'll have to measure, I think it's around 1/4". The groove in the retainer actually has a radius at the bottom so I'm not sure if the seal would have been round or square? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
31nash880 Posted February 5, 2023 Share Posted February 5, 2023 Thanks for taking the time to show all your work. I've learned alot from your experience. When I was doing my floor, l also noticed the brake pedal off center just like your's. Thought it odd. Pedal not bent so left it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viv w Posted February 5, 2023 Share Posted February 5, 2023 Before you redrill the pin for the rear UJ to lock it on the splines, just remember the end by the tranny has to have enough spline to slide up and down as the axle moves up and down. If you drill where you have marked a new mark, it will move the shaft further towards the front of the car and may limit movement on the front splines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted February 5, 2023 Author Share Posted February 5, 2023 15 minutes ago, viv w said: Before you redrill the pin for the rear UJ to lock it on the splines, just remember the end by the tranny has to have enough spline to slide up and down as the axle moves up and down. If you drill where you have marked a new mark, it will move the shaft further towards the front of the car and may limit movement on the front splines. You are 100% correct, I did make sure to check and I've got space. Last thing I wanted was to have the shaft bottom out in the transmission u-joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted February 5, 2023 Author Share Posted February 5, 2023 (edited) 33 minutes ago, 31nash880 said: Thanks for taking the time to show all your work. I've learned alot from your experience. When I was doing my floor, l also noticed the brake pedal off center just like your's. Thought it odd. Pedal not bent so left it. Strange, I was perplexed since the floorboard is original on mine. I'm sure there was a certain amount of variance when all was put together but it does seem odd. Mine was scraping the side and making a lovely loud noise at the last few inches of travel, I'll be glad not to hear that everytime I brake from now on. Keep up the good work on your Nash, I too enjoy your posts and appreciate you posting the process! Edited February 5, 2023 by Lahti35 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viv w Posted February 5, 2023 Share Posted February 5, 2023 Also it is important that you keep the splines in line with where you took it apart. The back one you will have to push it on so that the hole for the pin and the original hole are on the original spline. you cannot turn it on the splines at this point or you will end up with problems. On the front sliding side they normally have arrows on the shaft and on the yoke piece, these have to line up, this is important or your 2 UJ's will be out of alinement and it will cause either a serious vibration or could break something. PM sent regards Viv. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 5, 2023 Share Posted February 5, 2023 More great updates……..I would like everyone to notice that he doesn’t skip over small details…….small details make the difference in having a reliable car and a pile of junk. Notice……..all of this takes time. Figuring out solutions today, chasing materiel and supplies, turns just one small detail into a few hours work. That is why professional restoration is so expensive. Restoring a car is a series to 10,000 problems that all need to be done to the best of your ability…….or you have a mess. Bravo for showing you can do this type of work at home is a basic garage if you take your time, think it out, and make the effort. 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted February 6, 2023 Author Share Posted February 6, 2023 11 hours ago, edinmass said: Notice……..all of this takes time. Figuring out solutions today, chasing materiel and supplies, turns just one small detail into a few hours work. I'm coming up on the 1 year anniversary of starting on this project... hard to believe it's been a year now! Once the water pump is handled that should leave the list of major work pretty short. From there I hope to do some cosmetic stuff. I do enjoy the process! Kind words Ed, thanks! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted February 6, 2023 Author Share Posted February 6, 2023 13 hours ago, viv w said: Also it is important that you keep the splines in line with where you took it apart. The back one you will have to push it on so that the hole for the pin and the original hole are on the original spline. you cannot turn it on the splines at this point or you will end up with problems. On the front sliding side they normally have arrows on the shaft and on the yoke piece, these have to line up, this is important or your 2 UJ's will be out of alinement and it will cause either a serious vibration or could break something. PM sent regards Viv. This driveshaft is a bit of a mystery to me... I've been all through my manuals and supplemental tech publications through the late 20's and I can't find anything about balancing it or issues related to balancing. I have found no evidence of balancing (spots drilled out) on the castings and it has those giant zerks both sticking out on the same side. I found no markings on the shaft or u-joints to indicate things that should line up when I had everything degreased before painting. The whole thing is just weird, maybe they didn't care yet at Nash in 1925. Since I've never driven more than 15mph in it the one time I don't really have any idea if there was an issue present before I pulled it apart to clean. I didn't notice a vibration that one drive but I doubt the assembly was untouched since '25 based on what I saw taking it apart. I did mark stuff before I disassembled to put it back together. I think I'm just going to have to put it together and see what happens, short of shipping it to a specialist who can work on this type of driveshaft before I feel an issue, I think this is the first thing to try. I can always pull it off easily later and rectify a balance issue if it presents itself. PM Sent... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted February 6, 2023 Share Posted February 6, 2023 The Nash club has technical advisors that may be able to give some guidance about the driveshaft. I'm liking your work. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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