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1917 White truck mag and carb information


17White

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You also posted about the lever has linkage on the other side.  Did you mean the de-compression lever? If so, yes it has a small cable running to the rear of the engine but the lever it is hooked to seems to be stuck.

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6 minutes ago, 17White said:

You also posted about the lever has linkage on the other side.  Did you mean the de-compression lever? If so, yes it has a small cable running to the rear of the engine but the lever it is hooked to seems to be stuck.

Sound like that is what it is then. A decompressor. Yes. Some models had this.

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Does the oil also drip through the site glasses or should they stay full of oil? I also noticed in your pictures there is two buttons, one says more oil other one says less oil.   I that a setting or pushing it oils it one time?

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14 minutes ago, 17White said:

Does the oil also drip through the site glasses or should they stay full of oil? I also noticed in your pictures there is two buttons, one says more oil other one says less oil.   I that a setting or pushing it oils it one time?

These "Buttons" turn to increase or decrease the amount of oil that is feed. One for each glass. Each is adjusted separately. The site glasses show drips. 

Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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There can only be one certainty on White cars and trucks. It was literally impossible for them to build any vehicles that weren’t specialized and unique. Identifying a White isn’t ever easy.......bespoke is the word that accurately describes anything they built.

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I am finding this out the hard way.  Now to find parts.  I need the small gears at the end of the steering column that operate the spark advance.  Will I have to find only a truck part or will a car part also work?

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2 hours ago, 17White said:

I am finding this out the hard way.  Now to find parts.  I need the small gears at the end of the steering column that operate the spark advance.  Will I have to find only a truck part or will a car part also work?


You’re gonna have to make them.......see my 1917 White thread on my car, and making what we needed.

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Gears should be easy...you need the the number of teeth and the diameter. With those you can find the DP (diametrical itch) which is going to be less than the actual diameter. Then it's a simple matter to find (as an example of what you would be asking for) a "14 tooth DP 18 gear". The DP can be calculated from the diameter and tooth count.  Were they metal or some sort of composite? In either case, steel or brass may be available in a small size. They also may not have to be identical...18 teeth may work where there were 20 etc...since all they are doing is moving the spark and throttle controls. If you can, post a photo of the end of the column.

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The model 15 White Truck came in 121 -1/2 inch wheel base and a longer 133-1/2 inch wheel base. Your truck at 160 inch wheel base I'm 99 % sure is a Model 20. 

Does the throttle control on the steering column work? That has two right angle gears on the bottom end of the rods that run through the column. On the very bottom is the spark control.   

 

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The White Truck Facebook page would be a good place to look for help........as always, beware of the scammers trolling the parts wanted ads.

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The throttle control on the steering column does work.  It is the spark control that has the broken gear.  The gear on the end of the steering column rod looks good.  It's the gear at the bottom that mates to it that is broken. The mechanism with the broken gear has the arm that that moves the spark advance on the mag.  I haven't had time to take it off yet.  I will post pictures of it when I can.

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44 minutes ago, 17White said:

Couldn't find your 1917 White thread on my car, and making what we needed.  I'm still trying to figure out how to use all this site.

Probably this thread--->https://forums.aaca.org/topic/348445-the-phone-rang-and-then-the-next-car-adventure-starts/

 

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11 hours ago, 17White said:

Really like the truck. 

Is the Facebook page "White Motor Trucks 1900 - 1980"?

Yes. That is the one George Murphy is in command of I think. There is another in Australia that I also belong to.

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10 hours ago, 17White said:

The throttle control on the steering column does work.  It is the spark control that has the broken gear.  The gear on the end of the steering column rod looks good.  It's the gear at the bottom that mates to it that is broken. The mechanism with the broken gear has the arm that that moves the spark advance on the mag.  I haven't had time to take it off yet.  I will post pictures of it when I can.

OK. I'll see if I can get photos of mine next time I'm where the truck is so you can see what the missing broken part looks like. I would think that part is the same on more than one model. 

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Can’t figure why they use brass and pot metal...........Mother Nature sure wanted the pot metal back..........My 15 & 17 don’t have any pot metal except on the grease fittings.

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11 hours ago, edinmass said:


Can’t figure why they use brass and pot metal...........Mother Nature sure wanted the pot metal back..........My 15 & 17 don’t have any pot metal except on the grease fittings.

Ed, Speaking of pot metal, Did you notice the vacuum governor on his truck? First one I've seen on one of these Whites.

Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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3 hours ago, Dandy Dave said:

Ed, Speaking of pot metal, Did you notice the vacuum governor on his truck? First one I've seen on one of these Whites.

 

Yes I saw it........first time for me also. Strange! Then again, White made their own carburetors for a few years from 1915 to 1918...........nothing ever surprises me on White motor vehicles now.........someone installed an exhaust whistle also.......fun truck!

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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10 hours ago, 17White said:

We have to find us a good used one.   That's going to be fun.

More line just about impossible. The problem is that the pot metal deteriorates with age. Even if you found one "new in the box" it would likely be almost as bad. Unfortunately, there isn't enough there to even tell what it looked like but if you can get a photo of a complete — or almost complete example I may be able to tell how to replicate it.

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I got a few photos of the spark adjustment parts at the bottom of the steering column. It is dark in the barn where it is stored, and they are well preserved with the road dirt and grease on them. For better photos we will need to wait for spring and warm weather.

 

IMG_3381.JPG

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IMG_3383.JPG

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Thanks for the pictures. That's the part with the little link that attaches to the magneto and is turned by the small gear coming out of the steering column.  At least the machinist will be able to see what he is supposed to be making.  We are hoping that the local machinist will be able to make one for us.  Next is to see if the machinist can make a venturi for the carburetor.  It is also pot metal.

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Carbking can probably recommend a good replacement unit..........making a Venturi is more difficult than it looks........been there, done that.

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On 1/24/2022 at 10:25 PM, edinmass said:

Due to the war they switched over to American Bosch and dumped Eisemann in mid 1916. The published information in the catalog was still listed as Eisemann in 1917 but from my research they were all Bosch DU4 units. White made their own carburetor as well as using the  Zenith White unit.....one just sold here last month and Dandy Dave bought it. Post a photo of your machine and under hood please. 

The Carburetor I purchased last month is different than the one on my truck and also different than the one 17 White has. It must be one made by White as there are no references or number on it that relate to Zenith. Note the Pat. dates on the tag. It may however fit as it has 2-11/16 bolt centers which Carb King has listed as a type 2 Zenith . It has a barrel instead of a butterfly and does have some wear. Dandy Dave!IMG_3386.JPG.e25017ef31eb3ce962af35e4ba3caca5.JPGIMG_3389.JPG.05d8c38a7bb9a118f908f63d5c5d8225.JPGIMG_3388.JPG.239422925de9c889ebaa18717422b8ad.JPG  

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Dave, I’m guessing your carb is 1915-1917 as that’s the APPROXIMATE time frame the cars used the same design. While I am ok with how it functions on my 1917........it burns fuel like nothing I have ever seen in my life. When I have time, I’m going to install my Stromberg on it.......just to try it out.

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More questions.  I was told that you drained the oil via a rod from the oil pan to the front just behind the radiator and not the oil plug under the oil pan.  We pulled the "drain rod" and a couple of quarts came out.  We then pulled to oil pan plug and several more quarts came out.  Now I am assuming you would pull the rod everyday and fill the oil tank on the firewall everyday.  Then every so often you pull the oil pan plug and drain all the oil.  Then you would fill add oil to the oil fill pipe on the side of the engine until it started to come out of the engine via the daily oil drain with the rod.  If not the mains and rod bearings would not get oiled except from the drip pump.  Is this correct?

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19 hours ago, 17White said:

More questions.  I was told that you drained the oil via a rod from the oil pan to the front just behind the radiator and not the oil plug under the oil pan.  We pulled the "drain rod" and a couple of quarts came out.  We then pulled to oil pan plug and several more quarts came out.  Now I am assuming you would pull the rod everyday and fill the oil tank on the firewall everyday.  Then every so often you pull the oil pan plug and drain all the oil.  Then you would fill add oil to the oil fill pipe on the side of the engine until it started to come out of the engine via the daily oil drain with the rod.  If not the mains and rod bearings would not get oiled except from the drip pump.  Is this correct?

Yes. That is correct. 

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