Model56s Posted February 20, 2022 Author Share Posted February 20, 2022 On 2/19/2022 at 7:27 AM, Smartin said: The factory fit on these body panels is pretty horrible. We would have been in trouble if I hadn’t checked the gaps before they were painted. This attention to detail, especially concerning paint, is why I was willing to wait 7 months for an opening in Adam’s schedule. There was a fit issue with the instrument cluster in the Dynacorn repro dash, but fortunately it was relatively minor. Adam began to tackle the dash in the morning and by the afternoon it was in. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted February 21, 2022 Author Share Posted February 21, 2022 (edited) No pictures tonight because no progress on what has consumed me for two days. Two days. I’m having an issue replacing the upper freeze plug on the back of the block. There are two, one in the center just below the deck and one below right near the starter. The upper one is covered by the cast factory bell housing adapter required to mate the 235 six to the Hydramatic. The factory designed and cast a recess in the adapter to accommodate the upper freeze plug, but the steel plug must be flush with the back of the block. Further complicating this is that the plug’s convex side must face outward so it can be sealed in the opening by a (ball peen) hammer strike in the center which forces the flanges even more against the walls of the machined opening. As an extra measure, I will coat the machined sides of the block opening and the adapter machined face with RTV - if this thing leaks, the tranny must be separated to deal with it. I’ve gone through 3 freeze plugs trying to get this right. They are 2” Shallow, but still require the edges of the sides to be ground down in order for the crown to be flush with the block when the edges “bottom” in the block against the terminus of the machined surface. I would grind them down to the calculated depth & drive them in, only to see a 1mm protrusion 😡. I’m on my fourth freeze plug (I’m getting good at chiseling a slit and prying it out) but this time I know precisely how much to grind off. It cannot be driven in the other way since there is no way to expand and seal. I hope you’re following me on this. Once I get this right, the Hydramatic and engine can be mated and installed on the chassis and I can move on to U Joints, fuel and brake systems and be ready with a running drive train for the body drop and get it on the road. We’ll, there’s wiring and a bunch of other smaller things, what they call in the Telecommunications industry “the last mile”. OK, I’m done venting. Edited February 21, 2022 by Model56s (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hursst Posted February 21, 2022 Share Posted February 21, 2022 This is how almost every part on all my cars goes, so you're shooting par. They never thought anyone would be redoing these cars and didn't design in restoration friendly engineering. It will be worth it in the end, think of the knoweldge and expertise you gain. Keep up the good work, can't wait to see this truck in its various stages. Although utilitarian, it's one of my favorite designs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooney3100 Posted February 21, 2022 Share Posted February 21, 2022 (edited) On 2/18/2022 at 10:33 PM, Model56s said: Adam has made some progress - the front doors are aligned and the old dash is out without being butchered, seen in the background. Aligning the doors now helps avoid paint chipping during reassembly and regular use. He’s also made progress on the few dents in the roof and the top of the wheel wells which are exposed in the interior of the truck, and very visible. He would have had the two rear doors done, except I forgot to bring those hinges which are safely stored in my basement. He’ll have these and a couple other parts tomorrow morning. He has a YouTube channel, Antique Automobile Service, so check out his workmanship and projects. Chet, the Gateway Buick Club president loaned me his engine lifting bar and chains this afternoon to get the 235 six off the engine stand. His knowledge is backed by more years of experience than he’d probably admit. The engine will be mated to the Hydramatic tomorrow when I get back from Adam’s shop. I’m beginning to pull parts together that we’ll need in the coming weeks, especially interior parts that will need to be painted the same beige color as the rest of the interior. I chose 1956 color Forest Green in single stage urethane for the exterior color (solid, not metallic). Models56s, Here is my 56 with the original #723 Forrest Green outside color in Base Coat Clear Coat... Edited February 21, 2022 by Rooney3100 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 Hursst, so true. Not to sound like Barbara Walters, but the path of my personal growth is littered with these little thumb tacks and I go barefoot. Rooney, thanks for posting this picture! Between computer screens and indoor lighting, you never know how it will look. Gorgeous truck! How long have you owned it? Did you restore it? My wife was looking at a picture of an early 50s Advance Design and liked the lighter green, but the train left the station. We could not find the data plate color code 234G anywhere; 1956 truck colors are 700 series like yours so it makes me wonder It was in the mid-60s and sunny so I worked with the garage door open. The freeze plug is in, the bell housing adapter is on, the torus was sealed and bolted up with a new gasket and RTV and all bolted together. I had to take a 2” Shallow freeze plug and cut 1mm from the flange all around. I coated the sealing surface with RTV and tapped it in and the plug was flush. A good hammer rap in the center and it sealed up tight, then more RTV around the seam. The adapter has a circular face cast and machined that corresponds to the freeze plug, so where that face contacts the block/plug got an even coat of RTV. As I told Adam earlier, if either plugs on the back of the block leak, the engine has to come out. I decided to use new Grade 5 bolts on the bell housing. The new motor mount bolt is shorter that the original, so we’ll see how it sits when I drop in the engine this week. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 Adam got the cargo doors aligned today. One of the next steps is to look at the exterior and interior colors on a piece or metal in the sunlight. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 It amazes me that there was nothing I could do to get these doors (all 4 of them) to adjust without getting precariously close or rubbing/hitting somewhere. Only with grinding, welding, and a 16lb sledge hammer was I able to get a minimum of 1/8" gap all the way around them. Keep in mind that the goal is NOT to make perfect gaps. We just don't want it to be so bad that we rub or hit anywhere if someone closes a door too hard or weird. I made a video of me working on the passenger side door. It's uploading to YouTube currently. Will post when it's finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike "Hubbie" Stearns Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 Why don’t you do a pressure test on the water jacket? You’ll only need 1.5 times working pressure. It would be so much easier to do now than after you have installed it. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooney3100 Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 Model56s said: Rooney, thanks for posting this picture! Between computer screens and indoor lighting, you never know how it will look. Gorgeous truck! How long have you owned it? Did you restore it? Model56s, I have owned the truck since 2001 and Yes I did do a frame off restoration on my 1956... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 4 hours ago, Mike "Hubbie" Stearns said: Why don’t you do a pressure test on the water jacket? You’ll only need 1.5 times working pressure. It would be so much easier to do now than after you have installed it. Mike Mike, great suggestion that did not come to mind! I will do so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEVE POLLARD Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 You guys are doing excellent work ! Just getting caught up with this thread. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted February 24, 2022 Author Share Posted February 24, 2022 22 hours ago, STEVE POLLARD said: You guys are doing excellent work ! Just getting caught up with this thread. Steve Hi Steve, and thanks for the comment! Adam has been sanding, getting ready for primer and we’re working on the right tone for the colors. The paint store had an issue locating the proper color so I’m going to meet Adam there and get this ID’d. I mentioned this to my wife who is now favoring a lighter shade and she perked up - “oh really?!” so maybe we can accommodate this. I liked the lighter shade almost as much and showed her Rooney’s beautiful specimen, which she liked. We’ll see, it’s fun knowing you can decide on anything you want. This won’t happen, but Volkswagen has a beautiful orange that would look great on the truck. I have the motor mounts assembled and ready to install on the frame, and need to get two large bolts for the bell housing mounting points, then the engine meets the chassis. I have to get the chassis off the lift and into the next bay. I’m also prepping for paint the single rear light fixture that’s mounted on the left cargo door. I can find the replacement lens, but not the bezel or door interface gasket. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted February 25, 2022 Author Share Posted February 25, 2022 The paint store did not have the PPG number for Forest Green, so I'll ask Rooney for any reference numbers he used for his truck. They did have the interior color and we should have a pint sample tomorrow. Meanwhile, the interior is primed. Adam keeps moving. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooney3100 Posted February 25, 2022 Share Posted February 25, 2022 Message sent... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted February 26, 2022 Author Share Posted February 26, 2022 Adam got the exterior primed and ready for finishing body work. We will use base coat/clear coat based on Rooney's experience - thank you again Steve for your valuable information regarding correct paint and placement! Tomorrow I have to transfer the chassis off the 4 post lift and into an open bay to give the shop crane access for dropping the engine/transmission assembly in the proper spot on the chassis. To do this, I have to contend with an iced-over fairly steep driveway (5' of drop to the street over a 50' run). I'll spread salt before my morning coffee and wait an hour for it to do its thing. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike "Hubbie" Stearns Posted February 26, 2022 Share Posted February 26, 2022 Since you are going to drop in the engine and transmission in the frame, I assume your freeze plug passed the test? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted February 28, 2022 Author Share Posted February 28, 2022 On 2/26/2022 at 5:35 AM, Mike "Hubbie" Stearns said: Since you are going to drop in the engine and transmission in the frame, I assume your freeze plug passed the test? Mike Hi Mike, you sound like my wife "...haven't you done______yet?🤣 Not yet since I'm learning as I go, and know so little to begin with. Truly - I had to think about this. Tell me what you think of this approach - 1) seal the water pump inlet and the open intake manifold hot water supply brass fitting (circled in the picture), 2) drill a piece of 1/8" steel plate I have to match the the bolt pattern on the thermostat housing lower half face and to accept a metal 2-piece tire valve in the center,(3) assemble & bolt it on the housing face with a gasket and RTV. Once that cures, pressurize via the tire valve & check the pressure with a tire gauge, then check again in 6 hours to verify no drop. If it loses pressure, first soap test the fitting & inlet hose seals, and exposed freeze plugs. If they're good, the bell housing has to come off. If that's the case, maybe the truck becomes a static display item. I got the chassis into the other bay and that's about it for the weekend. Three of my children came over and ambition evaporated with each passing minute of their visit. Thanks again for the suggestion to pressure test the cooling system - I would have never thought to do it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike "Hubbie" Stearns Posted February 28, 2022 Share Posted February 28, 2022 I would put the thermostat housing on. Cap both the inlet and outlet with a fernco cap. They are available at most plumbing stores. Use the brass fitting to inject the air. Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted March 3, 2022 Author Share Posted March 3, 2022 I began dropping the engine/trans onto the chassis last night and found that the bell housing mounting holes were 3 inches further back from the transmission crossmember mounting holes. I bought two 3x5x1/4” plates today and cut them to adapt the bell housing to what I have. But then I noticed that the front mounts can be attached either to the brackets bolted to the front crossmember, or after looking and measuring for 10 minutes, found that they can be mounted directly to the crossmember in factory holes. Doing this would make up all but an inch of the difference by my measurement. It looks like Chevrolet punched these holes in the front crossmember for trucks with Hydramatic and installed the brackets for those with a manual transmission, like mine. Tomorrow night I’ll remove the front mounts & brackets and reinstall the mounts on the crossmember, then drop the engine in to see if the last inch is due to mis-measurement. If not, I’ll drill the adapter plates accordingly. At just an inch further back, the bell housing mounting holes are directly over the mounting pad, so the pieces I cut off the plates will serve as a spacer for bolt head clearance. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 Our original plan was to just fill a few dings that we knew were there, but once I started blocking a couple spots, it quickly grew legs. If anyone has done body work on 50’s bubbly GM vehicles, you’ll know that they’re a mess out of the box. So I got out the guide coat and started working a section at a time. This is a huge vehicle, so breaking it up into manageable pieces is key for me to get through it. Normally, if I am going to this level of effort to get a body straight, I skim coat the whole panel and block it all off. I spotted it in with the hood and the center section of the body. But as I got to the lower sections of the front doors, it was not an option. I had to skim coat the lower halves with filler and block it that way. Once I finish the rough body work, I will recoat the whole body with high build DTM (direct to metal) primer, then block one more time. This should get me to the point where I can shoot 2K surfacer and prep for paint. I couldn’t live with myself if I didn’t do my best to get these panels somewhat straight. And I appreciate Geoff for allowing me to spend a little extra time to do this. In the end, we will both be much happier. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted March 9, 2022 Author Share Posted March 9, 2022 So, this is why I held out 7 months for Adam’s schedule opening, this attention to detail. There’s another difference between Adam and me: he’ll look at a panel and say “that’s rough!” and looking at the same panel I’ll say “hey, that’s not too bad!”. But, I’ve never painted a car before. Without my ignorance I may not have taken on this project. No, I would have, I love this truck’s looks and utility. The cargo floor will be maple. More good news - local BCA Chapter president Chet came over today and validated my approach to dealing with the 1” difference in motor/bell housing mount distance and corresponding cross member mounting site distance. That solution is to fabricate new front motor mount brackets with the mounting holes 1” further back. In the second picture below, you can see that the front mount is leaning forward. My source will be Nadler’s welding. They’ve been at that location since 1951. We found out that this front mount approach will work when we bolted the repro radiator in with the fan and upper pulley installed and found 5/8” clearance with the engine in the “forward” posture. I’ll produce the new brackets, finalize the engine installation and turn to the fuel system. Brakes and drive shaft + U Joints to follow. Also, the four 15X7 Smoothie wheels (Wheel Vintiques from Summit Racing) arrived a couple days ago and Adam has them for painting body color, Forest Green, like Steve’s truck. I test fit all 4. Adam is shortening my time window to ready the chassis for the body, which is awesome. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted March 9, 2022 Author Share Posted March 9, 2022 The engine is installed. Now for some comedy. Notice in a few posts back the 1” difference in overall length between the motor/transmission mounting holes in the cross members and on the engine itself. I had the engine mounting brackets reversed, the right on the left and vice versa. There is no need for extra hardware or fabrication. BTW, For some reason the forum rotates the picture 90 degrees to the right when it’s inserted. We’re all calmed down now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 oops! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike "Hubbie" Stearns Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 It’s happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted March 13, 2022 Author Share Posted March 13, 2022 68oF today.Inner fender panels and top bracket are painted, lower panel in the picture needs another coat. The "Universal" fuel tank (Tanks, Inc.) is positioned - this was the closest tank I could find that clears the drive shaft, mounts to the side of the frame (fuel filler door is on the passenger side quarter) and provides reasonable ground clearance. I have to mate a 2" 45 degree exhaust pipe section to the short tank filler neck to get the filler opening in the right position on the frame to accept the body-mounted 1 1/2" OD filler tube. I'll need a 2" to 1 1/2" reducer to mate them (Tanks, Inc.), or a 2" filler tube that would mount to the body, and a fuel-safe 2" hose for coupling. The two tank mounting straps need to be 32" long and will be cut from pre-punched 1 1/4" strapping (about 18 gauge) from Lowe's, secured with stainless bolts, fender washers and (nylon) locking nuts to frame and cross members. I have rubber to insulate the tank from rubbing. This tank clears the drive shaft by 3/4", so losing a U Joint could rupture the tank - It can move outboard another inch to contact the frame, but due to the shape of the cross member would lower it another inch and I don't want any less ground clearance. Adam texted me this afternoon that the quarters are "rough worked" and he's starting on the back doors. I still have to finish mounting the tank, cut/bend/flange and run fuel and brake lines, install the parking brake cable (needs some rework) and install drive shaft/U joints. We want to transport the finished body back on the chassis and I don't want to have to lift it off again to get at something later. All for now... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted March 15, 2022 Share Posted March 15, 2022 After many, many hours of blocking, I finally made it around the body shell and hood. Today, I recoated the entire outer shell and hood with another round of polyester primer. Once it cures, I will block it with 180. Then I'll apply two coats of 2K primer surfacer, which acts as kind of a sealer to the poly primer. Then I block again LOL.....then paint!! Pics to follow in the next post. They're on my phone. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted March 15, 2022 Share Posted March 15, 2022 I will likely start on the fenders while this cures. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted March 15, 2022 Author Share Posted March 15, 2022 21 hours ago, Smartin said: After many, many hours of blocking, I finally made it around the body shell and hood. Today, I recoated the entire outer shell and hood with another round of polyester primer. Once it cures, I will block it with 180. Then I'll apply two coats of 2K primer surfacer, which acts as kind of a sealer to the poly primer. Then I block again LOL.....then paint!! Pics to follow in the next post. They're on my phone. Looks great Adam! I'm tempted drive out to see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 15, 2022 Share Posted March 15, 2022 Just curious....is that drag link supposed to be bent like that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted March 19, 2022 Share Posted March 19, 2022 (edited) Final poly block is done. Seams sealed. I ran out of self leveling seam sealer for the drip rail…but that should be here tomorrow. Next is primer surfacer. I have a couple little dings I have to take care of first. Why so many primer coats? The polyester primer is actually just a sprayable body filler, and that is why it needs to have this surfacer applied over it before paint. Otherwise the base will soak in to the polyester primer. Edited March 19, 2022 by Smartin (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted March 20, 2022 Share Posted March 20, 2022 Still gray…just a little different hue.😁 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted March 23, 2022 Share Posted March 23, 2022 More gray. Rough blocking is done on the fenders and coated in another 2 coats of poly. Rest of the truck is guide coated ready for final block before paint. I have a few things to do inside the trunk before I whip out the color, though. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted March 24, 2022 Share Posted March 24, 2022 Fenders and interior are in 2K surfacer. Paint is imminent! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted March 27, 2022 Author Share Posted March 27, 2022 I haven't done much on the chassis in the last week, attending to other things. I bought a 25' coil of 5/16th" nickel/copper alloy tubing for the fuel line to go with the 1/8th" coils of the same alloy I have for the brake lines. This 5/16" diameter will also be used for primary brake fluid supply to junction fittings that feed 1/8" tubing branching to the wheel cylinders. I've practiced flaring the tubing (double for brake, single for fuel), and was going to complete the fuel and brake line runs this weekend, but a large long-dead oak came down during our high winds on Tuesday, and that booked my weekend up for cutting and burning wood. I stopped work with the chain saw at Noon today with 3/4th of the job done on the tree and no stump to remove. The main trunk (30" dia.) and two large branches were rotted and hollow (lots of old, dry honeycombs) so cutting was quick and I don't have to split anything. I'll have it cut up by mid-afternoon tomorrow. We're having a burn party tomorrow night. So, the plan will be to run the fuel and brake lines in the evenings this week since Adam is closing in on completion. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 What a thankless job working on the tree. Been there done that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 Signs of color…might see some green by the end of the week! 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 Fenders and hood are painted. The green color is washed out on my phone photos…but it’s definitely a rich green. Can’t wait to get the whole truck in this color! 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 Great work and color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted April 5, 2022 Author Share Posted April 5, 2022 I’m very happy with this work, the colors and especially the contrast with the ivory top. What fortune to have this craftsman local! The fuel system is pretty much installed with the line run and tank secured in its final position. Next is to install wedges between the rear leaf spring perches and the axle to bring the pinion shaft parallel to the ground, then install the U joints and driveshaft. The brake master cylinder is clean and ready to be installed, then lines will be run. Still a lot to be done - here’s a small sampling: steering, shift rod and linkage, brake hoses, window, windshield and door rubber, maple planks and stainless strips & hardware for the cargo floor, wiring harness, and we haven’t mounted the body and front clip on the frame! Interior paint, seat upholstery, Adam to paint the steering wheel, buffing…new tires…parking brake cables, fill and bleed the brake system. Enough whining for tonight. 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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