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1949 Buick Super Restoration project


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17 hours ago, drhach said:

Makes sense to me. The frame looks pretty decent. Why mess with it if it doesn't need to come apart? 

That's what I'm thinking, It will probably survive another 10+ years in my garage as it is. It did survive 70+ years exposed to road and elements. It probably will hardly see any rain (never mind snow) anymore.

Engine ran smoothly when I acquired the car, Compression checked all good and even across the board. There is a bit of oil leakage, but I got full gasket/seals set for engine and tranny. I don't even know if I want to paint the block, probably end up with painting all accessories - starter, generator, filters, valve cover, etc. The body is in very good condition too, no holes in floors, still original undercoat. A few minor spots with surface rust, will clean them up and re-coat.

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  • 2 months later...

Torque ball boot was shot, so I went ahead and ordered new from Rockauto. Only to discover later that I got one from previous owner. After that went ahead and did a full inventory of new parts that I received with the car, and purchased after.

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Ah......Sheez coming along nicely.   I will look for the Rust Converter Ultra here.  If they don't have it, I am sure that Amazon or Ebay  does.   World is shrinking.  What color are you painting the Buick?  It looks black in these pics but it could be a dark blue.  Are you staying with the original color?  And where do you paint?  Do you have a booth that you use or do you rig one in your garage?  

Randiego

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8 hours ago, Randiego said:

Ah......Sheez coming along nicely.   I will look for the Rust Converter Ultra here.  If they don't have it, I am sure that Amazon or Ebay  does.   World is shrinking.  What color are you painting the Buick?  It looks black in these pics but it could be a dark blue.  Are you staying with the original color?  And where do you paint?  Do you have a booth that you use or do you rig one in your garage?  

Randiego

Thanks. I'm noticing that some of the rust converters that have good reviews are simply not available in Canada, so I picked up what was on Amazon.ca. Original color was Cumulus Gray, not black. So I'm going to go with gray, but on a darker side. We have a paint booth at our car club, and lots of help from fellow club members who do it for living.

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  • 1 month later...

And here comes the problem that I've read a lot, but was hoping to avoid it. Not with my luck :)

Cracked exhaust manifold. And the center manifold is even worse. Now I guess I have to learn how to weld cast iron :)

 

 

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21 hours ago, Mike "Hubbie" Stearns said:

Look at Lockstitch before you start welding on the manifold. It’s a lot better than welding in my opinion. Mike

What is Lockstitch? All I'm getting on google is sewing machine.

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Fabricated and installed cooper nickel brake lines. Interesting that old line passenger side was like new, and driver side rusted almost thru, but I decided to replace them both. Cooper nickel tubing bends quite easy just by hand.

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Plan was to paint it with rattle can spray and then rubberized undercoating, but when I went to hardware store to buy some paint I realized that POR 15 that I bough a year ago is much cheaper then rattle can that you buy these days. So will metal prep it and POR 15.

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Progress looks great!  Very interesting and detailed build.

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I pulled oil pan from Dynaflow, discovered lots of crud on the bottom, probably was never cleaned before.  And metal pin that looks like roller bearing. No metal shavings though. Posted in Technical section as well, perhaps someone can suggest what is it. In any case it looks like transmission needs a  rebuild. I test drove this car and transmission seemed to function properly and no noises.

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