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1955 Hudson Wasp Score!


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2 hours ago, HotRodHudson said:

Are you 100% sure it’s a 202 motor?  I was thinking those were for the Jet only.  I would have guessed it to be a 262 big 6 engine.  If it is a 262 you can put a 232 head on it to give it a nice bump in compression!  

 

The 202 ci former Jet six was the only engine available in the '55-'56 Hudson Wasp due to the shorter dash-to-axle length of the 114.25 inch wheelbase.  The Hornet 308 ci six was still available in the 121.25 inch wheelbase since their was enough length to fit it in.   In March 1956, when the Hornet Special was introduced with the all-new AMC 250 ci V8, it was in the former Wasp platform, again since the space was enough for it.  The 114.25 inch wheelbase platform was dropped completely for 1957, only the Hornet remaining with the 327 ci version of the AMC V8.  I hope this clears up any confusion.

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1 hour ago, supercub said:

They dropped alot of the engines for 55 as Hudson started to nosedive. 

The primary reason was that the Kenosha management had shut down most of the Detroit manufacturing operations, in order to begin the dispersal process.   Only the engine facilities kept going to build the 202 and 308 sixes, but since there were no plans for further models that would need the 232 or 262 sixes which would have had to share the longer 121.25 platform with the Hornet, the Wasp covered that end of the price range.  The handwriting was on the wall for both the Nash and Hudson nameplates, it was only a matter of time until AMC management had to make the inevitable decision.  

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GM Hydramatic fire in '53 forced all users to find alternatives. Not easy since the 4 speed Hydramatic (torque coupler rather than converter) was probably the best automatic of the day.

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My understanding of the Hydramatic situation after the disastrous fire was that GM relocated existing stocks to honor and fulfill contracts with the other companies.   They did so to avoid the obvious legal problems if they hadn't, plus had both PowerGlide and Dynaflow to substitute for Hydramatics until those became available again.  

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Why Nash did not have to switch until '54 model year.

BTW yes many used the PowerGlide (e.g. Chev, Pontiac) but did anyone other than Buick use the Dynaflow ? Still the 2 speed PG was not considered as good as the 4-speed Hydramatic. (let's not talk about the three-speed Rotohydramatic. Please.)

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46 minutes ago, padgett said:

Why Nash did not have to switch until '54 model year.

"... but did anyone other than Buick use the Dynaflow ? Still the 2 speed PG was not considered as good as the 4-speed Hydramatic. 

"...switch until '54 model year"  Could you expand on this first question, please? Switch to what?

 

On the second, a small number of both '53 Oldsmobiles and Cadillacs were equipped with Dynaflow as a stopgap.

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WOW, it really cleaned up nice!

 

  I have been following along with this thread, the older I get the more I enjoy the more "oddball" kind of stuff (not being negative). I have had so many of the Nova, Camaro, Chevelle, Cutlass kind of cars & still have some that go fast, but cars like this Hudson are sooo cool!

 

God Bless

Bill

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nationwide-single-car-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

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Thanks, yea the Wasp is kind of unique. The salmon red color is pretty cool. Hoping I can mix some paint to match or buy some with the paint code to do some touching up.

I just finished the blower motor, it purrs like a kitten. I was alot of work rebuilding it.

My temp sender came in, the threads were gaulled out, not usable, but it did function with the gauge when hooked up and set in 180 deg. pan of water. Kind of a setback bit thats how it always goes, ebay sellers selling reject stock. 

When Im done with fluids I can keep it in my garage but for now the cover should keep it dry.

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So glad you've got this '55 Wasp!  I really cleaned up nicely, looks great in those period colors.  When you have a chance, you should reach out to the editors of "Hemmings Classic Car" magazine for their 'DriveableDream' feature to do an article on your car. 

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I will check it out! I like color, and the combo red/white. Someone recovered the seats in blue, underneath is a nice grey cloth, someday I will see if they are decent enough to use with some cleaning. The door covers are blue, maybee they were reskinned.

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Good, it would make a great read for anyone considering jumping into old car ownership, very encouraging.  Emphasizing the need to open one's mind to a wider variety of makes, models and years would be good too, and good for the hobby in general.

 

Interior/exterior color combinations in the 1950's can sometimes be at odds with what we would have thought would have been proper or with our taste now.  Yellow and black exterior with red and white interiors, two-tone green with gray and burnt orange, blue and white with red and black interior, etc.  Not unlikely your red and white complemented with blue and gray might be found in a dealership color and upholstery samples book for the '55 Hudson.

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You have to be a little flexible when old car shopping, A late 30's long nosed car with bullet headlights, 3 spd on the tree, no rust, running and pref registered, road ready and under 7,000.00 budget. Maybe that car would come up in a year or more but with a stick. So, to take the Wasp with no rust issues, unique with character, well built,  running and burning clean, perfect glass and near perfect chrome, wasnt too much of a compromise. Now I'm kind of a Hudson fan, checking out all of the other models.

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36 minutes ago, supercub said:

You have to be a little flexible when old car shopping, A late 30's long nosed car with bullet headlights, 3 spd on the tree, no rust, running and pref registered, road ready and under 7,000.00 budget. Maybe that car would come up in a year or more but with a stick. So, to take the Wasp with no rust issues, unique with character, well built,  running and burning clean, perfect glass and near perfect chrome, wasnt too much of a compromise. Now I'm kind of a Hudson fan, checking out all of the other models.

Kinda how I wound up with a Dodge when I was really looking for a GM old car, Dodge offered more at a lower price. 

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If the radiator in your 55, is the same as step downs from 48-54. These radiators are a slam dunk, direct fit made for a Hudson. Fits in the stock core support, can be moved forward or backwards, for clearance on fan and A/C condenser if needed. plenty of room for a fan shroud. Upper hose location can be in center or off to the side. Mark and drill holes in the side mounting brackets. And bolt up to the stock mounting tabs in the core support. At $200.00 dollars delivered to your door, tough to beat. You can paint the radiator black, or leave it in bare/polished aluminum. https://www.ebay.com/itm/KKS-3-ROW-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-1963-1968-CHEVY-IMPALA-1964-1967-CHEVELLE-EL-CAMINO/293444424094?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D391ec261e03744459cf922dad5688b8a%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D293444424094%26itm%3D293444424094%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DKKS+Motor+Sports&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A7f3d27b4-2d2b-11eb-8379-5e961af52416|parentrq%3Af2b970411750a4cec60e884affeb7c49|iid%3A1     In no way am I saying to modify an old car. I am a non paid attorney spokesmen.:lol:   

1954 hudson outside #1 209.JPG

Hood 007.jpg

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Good idea to seal off transmission cooler if not being used. Keep your old radiator, put it in the box. If you sell the car, the new owner can restore it if they want to. I am guessing this is a more cost effective way. When fixing up Hudson's a person has to watch money spent. They just do not have a high value. Make sure you flush out your engine block before you install a new radiator. Good time to deal with heater core as well. Would be nice to know the cost on getting your old one fixed.

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Just a thought but I usually pressurize the cooling system as part of an inspection to find any leaks with one of these. Do not exceed the cap rating or 15 psi. A good sealed system that is full should take less than ten pumps. Quickly found a seeping water pump that wasn't dripping on the floor that way.

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I couldnt match the height on any ebay radiators. They were all about 2" too high. I brought it to a radiator shop and got an estimate for $400.00, exact price coming this afternoon. Branford Radiator, Branford, CT. He uses cores from a maker in ME, who can make to any size.  He showed me one of the cores, it looked good. About a week L/T.

I had the heater core out when I fixed the blower motor, and soaked it in dish soapy water, and filled it, let sit with dish soap water, then rinsed it out. Would have flushed the system at that time but we had a cold spell.

At this point with the radiator out and the car in my garage, how could flush the block? Remove the thermostat and run water thru the block into a bucket? I didnt want to have an unknown amount of water in the system now with the weather uncertanty, I will have to have a good day to flush and refill it, verify freeze status start to finish- banancing work, free time to wrench.

 

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I don’t know the 202 jet motor at all, but the 7psi cap sounds correct. My 308 and older 254 are rated for 7 psi. It’s not about the rad pressure as much as it’s about what pressure your head gasket can take. Check your manual and only use the correct rated cap for your motor. 

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a) Higher termps. The AC condensor is usually in front of the radiator. Even when living in Michigan I always looked for AC cars because the whole cooling and charging systems were HD and the heaters were better. Where a no-AC GM car of the 60s got a 37A alternator, the AC cars got a 55A.

 

On my '78 Sunbird I had to order HD-everything because C60 (AC) was not available with V8 and 4-speed. (was told the AC would move it into a different weight class for emissions that was not already certified).

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So the higher pressure would increase cooling capacity.

What is the best source for ignition components? I usually buy NOS Standard condensers for my old bikes bevause they are made in US, any preferences?

I see that Hagens sells, but $$$.

 

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"higher pressure would increase cooling capacity" not really, what the higher pressure does is to increase the boiling point of the coolant. Since I prefer to run non-computer cars at 160F-180F (everything under the hood lasts longer and cooler to drive in the summer). It does not really matter.

 

For them what's interested: 100 kpa is sea level. 150 is about 7 psi, 200 is about 15.

 

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My rear bumper has a dent that I will try to remove someday, all other chrome is good. I need to remove the left side front fender chrome strip and take out a small dent in it, it caused the end to flare out enough to rub on the door.

I found a loose plug wire just resting on the plug, that may explain the misfiring, also my points are pitted, need to replace points, condenser, cap, rotor, plugs. 

Good thing the bars are closed!

 

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