1936 Chrysler Airstream C-8 Convertible Restoration

[Professor]

Thanks Steve.  That piece of rubber is the worst!  I guess I will replace it with new rubber.  aCk!

lol.

 

6 hours ago, Steve9 said:

One piece of rubber fuel line will stay. That’s the one that links the lines on the frame to the lines on the engine. This way flexing of the lines as the engine revs is absorbed and won’t result in a snapped ridged line. Great tutorial Joe!

 

[VW4X4]

11 hours ago, Steve9 said:

One piece of rubber fuel line will stay. That’s the one that links the lines on the frame to the lines on the engine. This way flexing of the lines as the engine revs is absorbed and won’t result in a snapped ridged line. Great tutorial Joe!

What Steve states here is the way these car were built, but if you look at how much movement the engine has compared to the chassis, its not much, and turns out to be insignificant. There's and oil line to the dash for the oil pressure guage

for the same  purpose.  I've seen many cars were this has been eliminated, for one reason or another, with no ill effects.

One person I asked said the old rubber line was hard as a rock, causing the hard line to flex instead.   Just some food for thought.

ERIC

[VW4X4]

5 hours ago, Professor said:

Thanks Steve.  That piece of rubber is the worst!  I guess I will replace it with new rubber.  aCk!

lol.

 

 

Professor,   The actual brass fittings used on that line are significantly more exotic looking. I have never seen them for sale.  I have seen NOS complete lines for sale, but the rubber on those was as hard as the one I was trying to replace.  I've replace my oil line with new fitting out of necessity.  This was 20 years ago.  If your going to replace your rubber line these details matter.   Best of luck... 

 

On another note,  back when this car was built, it was clear that manufactures were keeping rubber products to a minimum, knowing they don't last very long.  Sixties it was plastic clips, and wire ties.  In the eighties this was true about glues.   Its amazing how technology evolves....  What's next?

 

 

ERIC

[Grimy]

I'm a bit concerned about your 80 psi at cold cranking.  You won't know until you actually run the engine, see how the pressure is after the oil is hot. 

 

I will tell you a story:  I had to have the rods rebabbitted on my 1936 Pierce 8 and when I started it up upon reassembly, the oil pressure was 'way too high.  I found that some previous tractor mechanic had compensated for worn babbitt by using a VERY strong spring (like a miniature garage door spring) in the oil pump pressure relief valve.  There are no specifications for that spring these days.  So I bought several same-diameter springs of different length and tension from a hardware store, heat-treated them by cooking them at 450* for 30 minutes on a baking tray, and did trial-by-error.  The 2nd spring I tried was correct.  You at least have an externally accessible oil pump:  mine required dropping the pan for access, and I used 6 bolts and 6 (out of 9) quarts of oil for each yard test.

Edited May 18, 2022 by Grimy
fix typo (see edit history)

[Professor]

Greetings everyone!

 

Valves are installed with .008 intake and .010 exhaust lash settings.  I checked the valves three times with 15 or revolutions on the engine between measurements.  On the first check, I found one intake valve that was a tiny bit too tight, so I reset it, all other valves were good.  The second and third checks showed no issues.

 

Now for some slightly disconcerting news where I could use some guidance.  Last night I left a mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid sitting on top of the pistons at about a 3/16 depth.  This morning when I went out to begin adjusting the valves only one cylinder still had any fluid in it, and that cylinder had maybe 1/16th depth of fluid (I could not see the piston top).  All the other cylinders were completely dry.  I am certain that my rings are worn, potentially broken (although I do not see any scoring on the cylinder walls).

 

Before I put the head back on, should I consider dropping the oil pan, removing the rods, pistons, and rod bearings, and, assuming everything looks good, replace the pistons, rods?, rings, and rod bearings?  I can measure the cylinders for roundness, hone them (assuming that they do not need to be bored out) and put everything back together with oversized pistons and rod bearings.

 

One thing is for sure… I am going to HATE putting this back together only to find out that my compression is low, add oil to the cylinders, and then realize that I should have just done the job right and replaced the pistons, rings, and rod bearings.  Should I replace the rods while I am in there?

 

I would really appreciate any guidance.  My gut really tells me to do it right, but doing it REALLY right would mean pulling the engine.  I could, of course, just bolt on the head and run the compression test, but I did this already and adding oil increased the compression on all of the cylinders, some more than others.  I seem to recall most cylinders were around 60-80 and jumped to 110-115 when I added oil.  

 

Thoughts?

 

Thanks so much in advance.

 

Joe

[Professor]

Thanks so much @Grimy.  I will take the pump apart and check it.  After all the sloppy work I have seen, absolutely nothing would surprise me now.  LOL.

 

 

5 hours ago, Grimy said:

I'm a bit concerned about your 80 psi at cold cranking.  You won't know until you actually run the engine, see how the pressure is after the oil is hot. 

 

I will tell you a story:  I had to have the rods rebabbitted on my 1936 Pierce 8 and when I started it up upon reassembly, the oil pressure was 'way too high.  I found that some previous tractor mechanic had compensated for worn babbitt by using a VERY strong spring (like a miniature garage door spring) in the oil pump pressure relief valve.  There are no specifications for that spring these days.  So I bought several same-diameter springs of different length and tension from a hardware store, heat-treated them by cooking them at 450* for 30 minutes on a baking tray, and did trial-by-error.  The 2nd spring I tried was correct.  You at least have an externally accessible oil pump:  mine required dropping the pan for access, and I used 6 bolts and 6 (out of 9) quarts of oil for each yard test.

 

[VW4X4]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

Greetings everyone!

 

Valves are installed with .008 intake and .010 exhaust lash settings.  I checked the valves three times with 15 or revolutions on the engine between measurements.  On the first check, I found one intake valve that was a tiny bit too tight, so I reset it, all other valves were good.  The second and third checks showed no issues.

 

Now for some slightly disconcerting news where I could use some guidance.  Last night I left a mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid sitting on top of the pistons at about a 3/16 depth.  This morning when I went out to begin adjusting the valves only one cylinder still had any fluid in it, and that cylinder had maybe 1/16th depth of fluid (I could not see the piston top).  All the other cylinders were completely dry.  I am certain that my rings are worn, potentially broken (although I do not see any scoring on the cylinder walls).

 

Before I put the head back on, should I consider dropping the oil pan, removing the rods, pistons, and rod bearings, and, assuming everything looks good, replace the pistons, rods?, rings, and rod bearings?  I can measure the cylinders for roundness, hone them (assuming that they do not need to be bored out) and put everything back together with oversized pistons and rod bearings.

 

One thing is for sure… I am going to HATE putting this back together only to find out that my compression is low, add oil to the cylinders, and then realize that I should have just done the job right and replaced the pistons, rings, and rod bearings.  Should I replace the rods while I am in there?

 

I would really appreciate any guidance.  My gut really tells me to do it right, but doing it REALLY right would mean pulling the engine.  I could, of course, just bolt on the head and run the compression test, but I did this already and adding oil increased the compression on all of the cylinders, some more than others.  I seem to recall most cylinders were around 60-80 and jumped to 110-115 when I added oil.  

 

Thoughts?

 

Thanks so much in advance.

 

Joe

I'm sure a lot of people will tell you to "DO IT RIGHT" and pull the pistons....BUT I can tell you that's a huge amateur mistake.  Its really easy for them to spend YOUR money.  You'll end up with thousands more into a complete rebuild, with the engine out, and the entire front end off the car, even a good possibility of never going back together under your ownership.   You found the low compression problem, you fixed it.   At the end of the day tomorrow, If it was my car,  I would have be driving it....

 

BTW, piston rings don't seal very good like that.  They are designed to be forced out to the cylinder wall under pressure.

 

ERIC

 

ERIC

[Piaras]

I would reassemble the engine and run it. Rings will not seal in a static state. Rings seal to the cylinder bore AND the ring lands of the piston. Right now the rings are not loaded and are naturally not sealing to the lands. On top of that, the ring gap likely 0.020” or more will allow passage of the fluid from the top of the piston down  through each ring gap to the pan.

Pierre

[Professor]

Hi Pierre,

 

I had low compression related to the rings before I fixed the stuck exhaust valve.  When I put the cylinder head back on, I am certain that the ring related low compression will still exist.  Let’s say that I have compression of 50-80 psi after I assemble the head.  Would you be concerned?

 

It isn’t like I expect this to be a hot-rod; I drive it at as low an RPM as I can… but I really would like it to run as it was designed.  This said, if you and others are confident that a 50-80 psi compression in this engine 

 

31 minutes ago, Piaras said:

I would reassemble the engine and run it. Rings will not seal in a static state. Rings seal to the cylinder bore AND the ring lands of the piston. Right now the rings are not loaded and are naturally not sealing to the lands. On top of that, the ring gap likely 0.020” or more will allow passage of the fluid from the top of the piston down  through each ring gap to the pan.

Pierre

 

[Professor]

Thanks Eric,

 

The money isn’t an issue for me, I can afford to rebuild the entire engine if necessary.  The issue for me is trying to keep this car as undisturbed as I can.

Because I had ring-related low compression before I redid the valves, I am 100% sure that I will have ring-related low compression after I put the head back on.  This said, if you and others think that 50-80 psi is good enough, I will leave things alone.

 

If others think it would be better to drop the pistons and replace them, I am literally happy to do so.  Cost, in this case, is just not a factor for me.

 

I can tell you this, I am getting excited about getting my Chrysler back on the road.  🙂. 

 

Joe

 

 

 

43 minutes ago, VW4X4 said:

I'm sure a lot of people will tell you to "DO IT RIGHT" and pull the pistons....BUT I can tell you that's a huge amateur mistake.  Its really easy for them to spend YOUR money.  You'll end up with thousands more into a complete rebuild, with the engine out, and the entire front end off the car, even a good possibility of never going back together under your ownership.   You found the low compression problem, you fixed it.   At the end of the day tomorrow, If it was my car,  I would have be driving it....

 

BTW, piston rings don't seal very good like that.  They are designed to be forced out to the cylinder wall under pressure.

 

ERIC

 

ERIC

 

[Piaras]

My view at the moment is -

1. yes the engine needs a complete going over as the leak down test showed. You were still able to drive at speed prior to the tests and will be able to do so now as well.

2. rebuilding it will take time and having no parts on hand right now is wasting drive and enjoyment time

3. line up all the parts first and don’t be surprised at how long that can take! Especially if a new or regrind of the camshaft is required. You mentioned that you could still see some cross hatching so maybe no pistons will be required, just a hone and new rings and bearings.

4. Winter project starting in the late fall and completed early spring will keep you busy for those few months!

5. The unknown factor

Pierre 

[Professor]

Hi Pierre,

 

This is a great idea.  I will take some measurements of the cylinders and figure out what I need. When I pull the oil pan, I will remove one (or more) of the rod bearing caps and measure the wear.  By the way, the last time I took the oil pan off, I found that some of the cotter pins on the rod nuts were broken.  I found some pieces in the oil pan.  It might make sense for me to remove, measure, and retorque the rod bearings.  If all of the bearings look good and have similar wear, I can safely order oversized rod bearings.  This said, who knows what I will find when I pull the rod bearings.  I am hopeful because the pistons are factory original standard size that the shadetree mechanic who did the valve job did not touch the pistons and rods.  LOL.  Famous last words?

 

Joe

[Professor]

All,

I just updated my restoration cost spreadsheet, capturing the work I have done since February 2022.  The new total is:

 

Wait for it.

 

Wait for it.

 

Wait for it.

 

Drumroll please...

 

Wait for it.

 

Wait for it.

 

Wait for it.

 

$33,407.45

 

This does not include the cost of the car since Dick gave it to me (or at least, he never cashed the blank check I gave him... even after I pestered him).

The only labor costs are the head and exhaust cleaning / surfacing: $327.71

and

The $9,980 I spent on the interior and top restoration.

 

I did everything else.  I have not added up my labor hours associated with the valve repair task, but I will, and I will share it in this thread.

 

I estimate that I will have just north of $60,000 into this car when I finish it. These days, I think it would be VERY hard to restore any car and not be upside down in it.  I cannot do it even with a free car.

 

Joe

Edited May 19, 2022 by Professor (see edit history)

[Piaras]

$60K likely still a bit of a low ball! We really don’t spend all the money and expect to get it all back. If this is not one expects than better be disappointed. I bought mine for about $30K USD and I am happy about that. I could of bought any $8-12K body and started spending money and 10 years to get it running and complete, but no I was not going that way.

I want to enjoy the car now and maintain it, with upgrades when something’s needs to be done.

Pierre

[LARRYCAROL]

Putting money issues aside, the question is do you want to drive this summer? I would install manifolds and head . Drive over the summer and then recheck compression. If car was running good and not smoking badly, just enjoy the ride. Replacing rings can be done next winter if needed.

[Professor]

Thanks All!  I finished installing a new oil pump pressure spring and cleaning out the oil pan today.  The head will go on tomorrow and I will post the results of the compression test.  I have to tell you, I am a bit apprehensive about the compression test.  LOL.

 

It is 96 here today and I have been working outside all day.  I may quit a bit earlier today.  It is 5:00 here and if I am lucky, I have another half hour in me.  🙂. 

 

Joe

[Professor]

Executive Summary:

 

Make sure you do not have two feeler gauges stuck together back to back when you set valves.  Check, double check, and triple check your valve lash.  Head is installed and compression is good enough for now.

 

Details:

 

So… in the process of checking the valves before I put the head back on, I did a “wiggle” test on the lifters and thought to myself, “Why do the intake valves move more than the exhaust valves when the lash is .008 compared to .010 for the exhaust valves.  Well… I examined my .08 feeler gauge closely and discovered that the .09 gauge was stuck to it from decades old oil that fused them together.  Turns out that I had .017 set for the intake valves.  I had to go back and do them over.  Ugh.  Lesson:  Make sure your feeler gauges are not stuck together.

 

Once the valves were set, I installed the head, torqued (using the proper sequence) to 30, 45, and then 60.  I will torque it one more time before I start it.  So… here are the final compression numbers:

 

1: 75, 110 with 10cc of oil

 

2: 90, 100 with 10cc of oil

 

3: 55, 90 with 10cc of oil 

 

4: 85, 120 with 10cc of oil

 

5:85, 120 with 10cc of oil 

 

6: 55, 80 with 10cc of oil 

 

7: 70, 115 with 10cc of oil 

 

8: 80, 105 with 10cc of oil 

 

Cylinders 3 and 6 have larger wear on the exhaust valve guides.  Cylinder 3 no doubt to the suck valve and I will need to look at the images of the exhaust valve on cylinder 6.

 

During the compression test, I had zero compression on cylinders 6 and 8 initially.  A quick check verified that the intake valves had negative valve lash, hence no compression.  I do not exactly know how this happened since I checked the intake valves twice after fixing the stuck together feeler gauge problem.

 

Once I get everything running, I will run up the engine until it is warm and double check the compression and valve lash hot. With any luck, the compression numbers will increase.  For now, I am pleased.

 

I am going to clean up the oil from the intake and exhaust manifold mating surface, wipe the fingerprints off the head, clean my tools, and quit early today.  I want to celebrate this moment until tomorrow when I will install the manifolds, carburetor, and get the cooling system connected and filled.  With any luck, I should finish on Monday or Tuesday and be ready to fire things up.

 

Here are some images:

 

 

 

[Professor]

By the way, a little story on how I lapped the valves.

 

I purchased an. “Automatic lapper” from Amazon.  It had excellent reviews, but is was virtually impossible to use.  In the images below, you can see that one end suctions to the valve (which worked perfectly) and the drill connects to the other end.  The problem is that you must hold the gray body of the device to make the suction cup end oscillate back and forth.  The gray piece is difficult to hold, and if you go too fast, impossible to hold.  I gave up on it and used a homemade lapping machine shown in the previous post.  I hot glued a 1/4 swivel to the head of the valves, connected the swivel to a 1/4 - 3/8 adapter, and then used a 3/8 extension to connect it to my drill.  I then pushed the reverse button on the drill to go back and forth.  It took about five minutes start to end to lap each valve.  I cannot imagine lapping these valves with a traditional hand lapping stick.  I had to hand machine all of the exhaust valve seats due to pitting, and then lap them smooth to remove any vestiges of pits.  It was a quick process using my homemade lapping machine.

 

Images of the “DO NOT PURCHASE THIS” “automatic lapper” waste of money are shown below.

 

Joe

 

 

 

 

[VW4X4]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

Executive Summary:

 

Make sure you do not have two feeler gauges stuck together back to back when you set valves.  Check, double check, and triple check your valve lash.  Head is installed and compression is good enough for now.

 

Details:

 

So… in the process of checking the valves before I put the head back on, I did a “wiggle” test on the lifters and thought to myself, “Why do the intake valves move more than the exhaust valves when the lash is .008 compared to .010 for the exhaust valves.  Well… I examined my .08 feeler gauge closely and discovered that the .09 gauge was stuck to it from decades old oil that fused them together.  Turns out that I had .017 set for the intake valves.  I had to go back and do them over.  Ugh.  Lesson:  Make sure your feeler gauges are not stuck together.

 

Once the valves were set, I installed the head, torqued (using the proper sequence) to 30, 45, and then 60.  I will torque it one more time before I start it.  So… here are the final compression numbers:

 

1: 75, 110 with 10cc of oil

 

2: 90, 100 with 10cc of oil

 

3: 55, 90 with 10cc of oil 

 

4: 85, 120 with 10cc of oil

 

5:85, 120 with 10cc of oil 

 

6: 55, 80 with 10cc of oil 

 

7: 70, 115 with 10cc of oil 

 

8: 80, 105 with 10cc of oil 

 

Cylinders 3 and 6 have larger wear on the exhaust valve guides.  Cylinder 3 no doubt to the suck valve and I will need to look at the images of the exhaust valve on cylinder 6.

 

During the compression test, I had zero compression on cylinders 6 and 8 initially.  A quick check verified that the intake valves had negative valve lash, hence no compression.  I do not exactly know how this happened since I checked the intake valves twice after fixing the stuck together feeler gauge problem.

 

Once I get everything running, I will run up the engine until it is warm and double check the compression and valve lash hot. With any luck, the compression numbers will increase.  For now, I am pleased.

 

I am going to clean up the oil from the intake and exhaust manifold mating surface, wipe the fingerprints off the head, clean my tools, and quit early today.  I want to celebrate this moment until tomorrow when I will install the manifolds, carburetor, and get the cooling system connected and filled.  With any luck, I should finish on Monday or Tuesday and be ready to fire things up.

 

Here are some images:

 

 

 

Joe,

      Put it back together and be done with it....  You may also want to consider how accurate  your compression gauge is.  My compression  gauge leaks,  (sometimes) at the valve.  SO, I just watch as the engine cranks, and see how high it goes.  Nice to see your making progress...

 

ERIC

[Professor]

Thanks Eric… it is going back together as we speak.  I am satisfied (not ecstatic however) with the compression.  I think it will increase hot, and given the shape hacked valves that were in it, I am certain it will run better than it did before the valve stuck.

9 minutes ago, VW4X4 said:

Joe,

      Put it back together and be done with it....  You may also want to consider how accurate  your compression gauge is.  My compression  gauge leaks,  (sometimes) at the valve.  SO, I just watch as the engine cranks, and see how high it goes.  Nice to see your making progress...

 

ERIC

 

[Piaras]

Considering that you are going from a 6 1/2 cylinder engine to a 8 cylinder, it will run better! Lots of work but once it is put back together, happy days again!

Pierre

[Professor]

Thanks Pierre,

I have learned so much because of this burned valve.  I can honestly say that I have enjoyed every minute of work I am putting into this Chrysler. I would have been happier if everything had stayed perfect, but each little issue, from replacing the wiring to rebuilding the top end had made me more familiar with this car, and for that… I am thankful.

 

6 hours ago, Piaras said:

Considering that you are going from a 6 1/2 cylinder engine to a 8 cylinder, it will run better! Lots of work but once it is put back together, happy days again!

Pierre

 

[Steve9]

5 minutes ago, Professor said:

Thanks Pierre,

I have learned so much because of this burned valve.  I can honestly say that I have enjoyed every minute of work I am putting into this Chrysler. I would have been happier if everything had stayed perfect, but each little issue, from replacing the wiring to rebuilding the top end had made me more familiar with this car, and for that… I am thankful.

 

 

I’m feeling it here, all the way across the country. Nice job Joe, can’t wait for the initial firing.

[Professor]

[Professor]

22 May Update:

 

Things went as smooth as silk today.  The manifolds bolted up easily, and the new stainless nuts should be a dream to remove and reuse if necessary.  The McMaster-Carr hardware was a godsend; no more running to Lowes for hardware only to find out that I bought the wrong thing.  The only problem is; I had to buy larger quantities than I needed.  If you need any hardware, please let me know and I will send you an exhaust “kit”.

 

With any luck, I should wrap things up tomorrow and do the first start.  Wish me luck!

 

Joe

[keiser31]

Good luck to you!

[Professor]

All done for today.  I should have an easy two hours tomorrow until I attempt the first start since the work.  Today was a bit tedious since I needed to clean and gap spark plugs, install accessories and some of the cooling system.  The temporary fix for the broken water pump tab was easy.  I added a flat washer, lock washer, and nut on the underside of the remaining part of the tab and it held easily. This part is torqued to 20 foot pounds, and I used some Loctite pneumatic sealer on the threads on both bolts to ensure there is no seepage around the bolts.  I also used copper gasket material on a regular bypass gasket and it is holding well.  I want it to cure overnight before I start cranking things up tomorrow.

 

Speaking of tomorrow, here is what I need to do:

 

Change the oil and install a new oil filter

Install the remaining accelerator linkages and vacuum lines.

Re-torque the head

Flush the coolant system.

Clean, check, and Gap the points.  (I did not touch anything timing related so everything should be fine).

Fill the coolant system.

Run a final compression check

Install the distributor cap and plug wires.

Replace the rubber fuel line from the chassis to the engine.

Check for anything I may have missed.

Fire in the hole!

 

Tomorrow is either going to be Christmas or a bad day.  LOL.

 

Here are the pictures from today’s work:

 

 

[Professor]

Oh… and I need to rebuild the coolant bulb by replacing the copper tubing and filling it with 100% Ether.  There are instructions on the Internet and there is no way I am going to pay Bernbaum almost $300 to rebuild it.

 

Joe

[VW4X4]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

Oh… and I need to rebuild the coolant bulb by replacing the copper tubing and filling it with 100% Ether.  There are instructions on the Internet and there is no way I am going to pay Bernbaum almost $300 to rebuild it.

 

Joe

Joe,

          What's a coolant bulb?  Got me fooled on this one.  I can only guess that it may be the end of the Temp. gauge cable?       

 

ERIC

[Professor]

Hi Eric,

 

yes, it is the small (3cc ish)vessel at the very end of the coolant temperature gauge. It holds the Ether. 
 

I am actually looking forward to rebuilding it and calibrating it. 
 

 

Joe

 

41 minutes ago, VW4X4 said:

Joe,

          What's a coolant bulb?  Got me fooled on this one.  I can only guess that it may be the end of the Temp. gauge cable?       

 

ERIC

 

[VW4X4]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

Hi Eric,

 

yes, it is the small (3cc ish)vessel at the very end of the coolant temperature gauge. It holds the Ether. 
 

I am actually looking forward to rebuilding it and calibrating it. 
 

 

Joe

 

 

Well this  is interesting... Can you post the link as to how to do this.  I have several that are bad...

 

ERIC

[Professor]

Here you go Eric:

 

https://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

 

Joe

[Professor]

24 May Update:

 

Executive Summary:  Unbelievable.

 

Details:  I finished everything I set out to do today with the exception of fabricating fuel lines for the engine compartment and repairing the temperature gauge.  After a hundred miles or so, I will flush the radiator (I am cleaning it with a citric acid water mix), drain the oil, and put fresh oil in.

 

The startup was flawless.  I turned on the electric fuel pump for 10 seconds or so and then turned it off.  I asked my wife to do the honors while I watched outside the Chrysler.  I had @Steve9 on FaceTime video while my wife cranked the engine.  After about 5-10 revolutions the engine fired up and idled more smoothly than I have ever seen.  The throttle response was crisp without a hint of a stumble or hesitation.  There is no way I could be happier.

 

I would like to thank everyone for the guidance along the way… I think you saved me from many mistakes, and potentially, from rebuilding the bottom end when it was not necessary.

 

The test drive was smooth and powerful compared to before I rebuilt the top end.  When I pulled up to a stop sign, things were so smooth and quiet that I actually thought the engine had stalled.

 

Here are a few images.  I need to work at the university tomorrow so I may not get much done.  I still need to install the hood and I need my wife’s help for that.  The hood is surprisingly heavy.

 

Thanks again everyone.

 

 

 

[Professor]

One more thing: I confirmed that the water vapor that was in my oil was indeed a leak at the head gasket.  After a 20 minute test drive, no vapor in the oil filler cap, and no loss of water in the radiator.

 

Joe

[Piaras]

Congratulations! Nothing to do now but get the wind into your wife’s hair!

Compression is over rated at times. Other than not getting the most out of the fuel, you should be fine for a few years.

Yes the hood is HEAVY, my wife and I found that as well!

Pierre

[maok]

Well done joe, it was obvious that you are a competent home mechanic. The sound of silence is a good sign that its running well.

 

Now stick a vacuum gauge and do the compression test to get an idea of how healthy the engine is.

[Bloo]

30 minutes ago, Professor said:

 After a hundred miles or so, I will flush the radiator (I am cleaning it with a citric acid water mix)

Can you say more about this? Is the purpose mainly to attack rust or is for calcium deposits? Oil?

[Professor]

Hi Bloo,

 

I use citric acid as a flush to remove calcium and oil, and it will actually clear passages in the radiator that may be clogged.  The issue with citric acid is that it can cause leaks as it breaks down deposits and material that may be preventing leaks.  For example, if a calcium deposit is preventing a freeze-out plug leak, and I use it, I will get a leak that I did not have before.  It is a risk.  I have also used dawn (1/4 cup) mixed with water in a radiator to dissolve any grease or oil in the cooling system.

 

Looking at my radiator passages, I believe that using citric acid (1lb per 1 gallon of water) and filling the cooling system with water and running it for a 30 minute drive may get rid of some of the garbage in my cooling system.  I may be opening a can of worms if I cause a leak.  By the way, the main ingredient in over the counter radiator flush is citric acid.  They charge an arm and a leg for a very simple solution that almost anyone can easily make.  As you likely know, citric acid is simply vitamin C.

 

Joe

 

14 minutes ago, Bloo said:

Can you say more about this? Is the purpose mainly to attack rust or is for calcium deposits? Oil?

 

[VW4X4]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

Hi Bloo,

 

I use citric acid as a flush to remove calcium and oil, and it will actually clear passages in the radiator that may be clogged.  The issue with citric acid is that it can cause leaks as it breaks down deposits and material that may be preventing leaks.  For example, if a calcium deposit is preventing a freeze-out plug leak, and I use it, I will get a leak that I did not have before.  It is a risk.  I have also used dawn (1/4 cup) mixed with water in a radiator to dissolve any grease or oil in the cooling system.

 

Looking at my radiator passages, I believe that using citric acid (1lb per 1 gallon of water) and filling the cooling system with water and running it for a 30 minute drive may get rid of some of the garbage in my cooling system.  I may be opening a can of worms if I cause a leak.  By the way, the main ingredient in over the counter radiator flush is citric acid.  They charge an arm and a leg for a very simple solution that almost anyone can easily make.  As you likely know, citric acid is simply vitamin C.

 

Joe

 

 

Joe,    What I have found with these old flatheads, is a lot of gunk gets stuck in the lower parts of the block.  After all, the 1936 six cylinder was the first year that the Chrysler motor had a water jack around the cylinders.  I'm not sure what year Chrysler did this on other motors. All the six cylinder motors that I ever owned were stuff full of gunk in the lower part. To fix this, in the car,  the only thing I can think of doing is maybe removing a few freeze plugs.  The six cylinder has a very small drain.  This is basically good for nothing, when trying to flush the system.   Maybe the eight cylinder has a better drain.

 

ERIC

[Piaras]

Very difficult to blow out the sludge in the bottom of any block. Best way is removal of engine, complete tear down and use power washer through the freeze plug holes and wear goggles and bathing suit. It gets messy! I have used Radiator drain cocks to reduce the wear of removing the solid plugs that one usually finds. Not perfect by any unit of measure.

Pierre