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Treating chipped paint and resulting surface rust


StylishOne

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You can always brush on phosphoric acid and let it convert the rust, clean and touch up.

 I always have a bottle of clear fingernail polish in every car to dab on a stone chip when needed. Helps to keep it from getting worse before you can attend properly.

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 The best way to dab paint is with the fuzzy end of a paper match.

 Dab a small drop in the center of the chip, let dry for a short time and add a larger drop. work the paint toward the edge of the chip but DO NOT go on to the surrounding paint.

 It can be wet sanded with 2000 later, by covering the existing paint with one layer of masking tape and using a sanding block.

 Good for 10' or closer; depending on how old your eyes are.😉

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Buff off the rust and wax the hell out of it. In good storage and moderate driving in the rain a car will make it years or decades without degrading very much. The rust that ruins cars almost always comes from the back side of the panel. 

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Most/many/some primers are not waterproof.  A few years ago when I was painting primer's sole purpose was to bind to the metal and the paint would bind to the primer.  I have no hands on experience about current primers.  I think gossp's idea is probably the best.

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I found out the hard way in the early 1970s that you can't just leave lacquer primer on a car Saturday and expect to resume working on it Monday when the car is parked outside.   Primer does not repel moisture.  I ended up having to start over by sanding it down to bare metal, chemically treating the metal, priming, and painting a top coat all in the same day. 

Edited by Jim Skelly (see edit history)
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You would be amazed at what I have been able to touch up - it just takes time and patience.  I have been lucky to get paint with some car and others I have had a pint matched at the automotive paint store or call a good friend who has a sign painting business and we mix 1/4 pint or so using his On-Shot Sign Painters Enamel.  Also, at the automotive paint store you should be able to get touch up brushes - they are like a toothpick with a minuscule ball of cotton on the end, horsehair/squirrel/mink/... artist brushes, a nib-too (it is like a file on a block of wood), some 2000 or finer sandpaper, your favorite polishing compound - and again lots of patience.  

 

Periodically, I get the air brush out and I have had the paint store mix me up some rattle cans on occasion too. 

 

Also, make sure you keep your paint in good cans/bottles and sometimes I store in refrigerator too. 

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)
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This is my back row deal from Chief Buick Pontiac, LeRoy, NY in 1976. The salesman told me "50 BUCKS". I went inside to pay and while he was writing it up I saw a Penny Saver ad listing it at $49.95. Burned again by my eagerness.

 

Light brush touching with an artist's brush and rattle can clear on the pitted diecast.

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Rust stains are brought back with NAPA chrome polish, has a nice fine grit.

 

Bernie

 

Lacking in all manner of professionalism.

 

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