Brooklyn Beer Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 Well after running straight evapo-rust as coolant now for 4 weeks it has turned black and the outside temps are dictating I remove it. Thermostat is removed at this point. Best place to install the T for the hose connection to back flush? Just prioer to the water pump on the heater return line? Thermo is removed. Have 300 foot of black garden hose to lay out in the sun for the job. By the way after running straight evapo-rust for 3 weeks the car quit getting hot. Looking at the color of it now (black) I am sure I need to do again in the spring or perhaps mix it 50-50 with coolant so it continues to work through winter as it should get me to -10 with straight coolant added. Perhaps I will not have to remove the water distribution tube after all. The first 4 days I saw no noticeable changes in temps. At Idle it would start to peg. Driving decrease. Then daily it started coming down to now it is hard to get the motor to warm up without the thermo installed. Previous owner gave up on it after new radiator, water pump and thermo. Before this he had done all the brake cylinders and brakes and master. He could not get it to run normal temps. So he basically gave away this 53 Cranbrook. I am sold on Evapo-rust from here on out ! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 Interesting information on the evapo-rust, keep us posted on what you find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted November 2, 2019 Author Share Posted November 2, 2019 Drained. Installed a 160 thermo (TX after all). Back flushed tonight and not much scale flakes at all came out. The mixture though of a 1/3 coolant and 2/3 evapo was black. Refilled with 1 gallon evapo rust and 1 gallon concentrated old school glycol. Topped up with 50/50. Ten mile drive followed. Never tried to get hot and the heat coming out was enough to melt your feet. I can tell you without a doubt the evapo-rust scrubbed the heater core clean for sure. Tomorrow we get inspected and a set of new shoes. New shocks and general lube and maintenance. This old girl needs to get driven (legally) a lot more for sure. It runs and idles as good as my new Tundra when warmed up. The choke coil heat mechanism needs a replacement though if anyone knows of a source. It is a bear until it gets warm without a hand choke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 I too love evaporust. Put 2 gallons in my '40 Buick LTD and ran it for 2 weeks. Worked so well I ended up replacing 3 frost plugs that were dripping. That treatment and a new water pump cured a chronic overheating problem the previous owner struggled with for several years. Lucky me.............. Mike in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted November 2, 2019 Author Share Posted November 2, 2019 Let the secret out? For over 40 years I have collected antique beer and soda cans and up until last month we cleaned them with Oxcalic acid. Great on rust. Well tomorrow in goes some cans made in 1939 to new evapo-rust that I dug in a farm dump some 35 years ago just to see what will happen. I really can't believe that a car that could not idle for 10 minutes without getting into scary land now stays at 160 just after running this stuff for about 3 weeks. i was hoping for 7 weeks but early freeze this year. So now it is about 50-50 mix and will let it do it's work all winter and see what happens comes late spring. That mix gets it at -10 so fine for TX. My 46 Dodge will get the same treatment next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted November 3, 2019 Share Posted November 3, 2019 Check your engine at the cylinder head with a laser thermometer. It should be the same front to rear, if it is a lot hotter at the back the water distribution tube is shot. Without the tube all the coolant streams up the front of the engine, and none goes to the back. This is an easy quick way to figure this out, without taking anything apart. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted November 3, 2019 Author Share Posted November 3, 2019 And here I was thinking it was just clogged. Did not think about it rotted out. With a 160 thermostat it stays in the mid range on the factory gauge but a 180 has more on the high end. My laser thermometer will be here monday. Maybe the evaporust did too good a job ! If the tube is shot hopefully what is left will at least be free to get out thanks to the rust remover. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaiah Posted November 4, 2019 Share Posted November 4, 2019 Where can I get evapo-rust ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted November 4, 2019 Author Share Posted November 4, 2019 6 minutes ago, Isaiah said: Where can I get evapo-rust ? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0TLQ66/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted November 9, 2019 Author Share Posted November 9, 2019 On 11/2/2019 at 7:55 PM, Rusty_OToole said: Check your engine at the cylinder head with a laser thermometer. It should be the same front to rear, if it is a lot hotter at the back the water distribution tube is shot. Without the tube all the coolant streams up the front of the engine, and none goes to the back. This is an easy quick way to figure this out, without taking anything apart. OK, went for a nice 20 mile ride and at 55 mph with a 170 thermo in and she rested near the max of the "good" zone on the factory temp gauge. At this point I pulled over and used my new handy laser temp identifier and sure enough, the back of the block was at 200 while the front was at 172 and the radiator was at 156. So looking like a water distribution tube issue. The new one arrived today as my gut told me it was screwed after looking at the rest of what was changed out. So will get into that sometime soon. Going to let the evapo rust coolant mix do it;s job for a month longer and hopefully get the remains of that tube out easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted November 22, 2019 Author Share Posted November 22, 2019 Have the new tube in hand and will start on changing that out tomorrow sometime I hope. Have been driving the old girl to work and back which is a 60 mile round trip. Needle stays in the good range if a little high. Hopefully the evapo-rust and driving will make the tube slide out easier. I am still running 50-50 evapo rust/coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyler Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 I have done all the usuals, dist. tube, remove freeze plugs and flush as best I could,re-core rad.,160 thermo,new water pump, new hoses. all this has helped, but my 265 still gets hot at idle and I cannot drive it in real hot weather if I will be in stop/go traffic. my guage is correct, and it has never completely overheated, but it gets to the danger area and then I have to stop. this evapo-rust sounds like something that will be a real help to me. I guess I will try some, but is it ok to leave it in all winter as I rarely drive the 54 Chrysler then. capt den Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaiah Posted November 23, 2019 Share Posted November 23, 2019 You might want to try a different fan . You might want to rig up a plug adaptor to go in the bottom Radiator hose on the block side with a garden hose connection and push the water out from the bottom up will want to take the thermostat out while doing this. watch what comes out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted November 23, 2019 Author Share Posted November 23, 2019 Have you checked with a laser thermometer down the length of the block? The evapo rust has a freeze point close to water so unless it is in a heated garage you can't run it straight except in Summer. I have been told by more then a few folks that they have run it all summer with no problems. It goes in clear and when it turns black it has done all it can do and must changed to fresh. The first go round I drove the car only 200 miles that week before it went black. I had to do that twice before freezing temps has me running it 50-50 that combined with straight uncut anti-freeze has me at -10 until I decide to yank the tube. The stuff is best circulated at temperature regularly to keep things moving and helps it work faster when at operating temp. I know I could not go 12 miles without the car getting into overheat range before the evapo rust and now I can drive it into work as long as it stays below 80. The tube will be changed out soon as I am pretty sure there is nothing left of the back of it where the temp sender is now. The front of the block is staying at 170 but back there it hits 205 if you idle it for more then 10 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted November 24, 2019 Author Share Posted November 24, 2019 So today with new distribution in hand I set out to replace the one that was installed in the hopes of correcting the overheating problem. Removed the water pump and thankfully saw a tube in good condition. Read about nightmares trying to get out rusted up ones. Looks like evapo rust did some good work. With my handy dandy homemade removal tool I grabbed the first slot of the tube and rigged to a ratchet strap and a deadman, I set to pulling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted November 24, 2019 Author Share Posted November 24, 2019 After just a few cranks it popped out! And I do mean popped out! It shot 3/4's of the way out. Goooo evapo rust ! The tube looked to be in very good condition. I suspect it was replaced when the first people got the car from the original owner in 2009 in an attempt to fix the overheating problem. But it sure was heavy. Wait, what is this inside the tube. Yep. BIG scale chunks and flakes. I can only imagine what is stuck inside around the tube. So now time for a good flush Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted November 24, 2019 Author Share Posted November 24, 2019 (edited) So hooked the garden hose to the heater hose up front and let her go for about 20 minutes. All the while I was using my handy tool to scrap away. After about 30 minutes of flushing and scraping the water started running clear of debris and crud. But oh what came out ! I think I found the main overheating problem. Did the evapo-rust break things up? I don't know but all this crud was coming pretty easy. Note all of this was in the motor but a lot of it was for sure. Not the size of the darker pieces ! Edited November 24, 2019 by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted November 24, 2019 Author Share Posted November 24, 2019 After 30 minutes of flushing it was time to get everything buttoned up. Installed a new distribution tube and it slid in nice. Just a couple good whacks to set it. Did not feel any scale holding me back. Flushed the radiator and put everything back together and off for a 20 mile ride. These results pleased me and when I got home I laser heat checked the back to front. Every spot was within 3 degree's of each other and not the 30 + the back was showing. I am sure there is more scale that will break loose over time and come spring I will be running the evapo rust again. But for now I am very happy with the results of my 1700 dollar car that everyone gave up on because of over heating 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 Only the picture in the last post is showing up for me 😒.......is it just my computer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted November 26, 2019 Share Posted November 26, 2019 Not you computer. No pictures here either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 odd. I see them on my screen. let me try again. See if my handy dandy tube yanker comes out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 (edited) That tube was kinda nasty inside, huh? I am impressed with your results from the EvapoRust. I'm ready to try it on one of my Studebakers. Edited November 27, 2019 by r1lark (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Saw very little rust which is what impressed me. But the loose scale and crud left behind I know would not have come out unless I yanked the tube and back flushed, all the while scrapping away as deep as I could get. I am pretty sure when Spring comes back around I will be pulling again to flush out more crap that breaks loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaiah Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Something you might want to try is a couple bottles of lemon juice and fill it up with water and warm it up. I have cleaned a lot of parts in lemon juice and a old crock pot with good results. it works good on carburators. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 1 hour ago, Isaiah said: Something you might want to try is a couple bottles of lemon juice and fill it up with water and warm it up. I have cleaned a lot of parts in lemon juice and a old crock pot with good results. it works good on carburators. I think I would stay with Evaporust. Citric acid will attack good metal too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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