cevensky Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 have you tried California Pontiac Restoration? If this link doesn’t have it (their website admittedly takes getting used to) then just call. They’re super helpful and super nice, even by Southern standards. http://www.pontiacparts.net/Chassis/default.htm call if you don’t see it, they don’t list everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 (edited) I had bought a couple of niknaks from them and they sent me a catalog; that just listed rebuild service for steering. I can give them a call after the holiday. Phil Edited November 28, 2019 by PhilAndrews (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted December 3, 2019 Author Share Posted December 3, 2019 Well, tried to get the valves to play ball but they're going to have to come out and be cleaned properly, they're getting all jammed up when the engine warms up. Marvel Oil was worth a try. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted December 10, 2019 Author Share Posted December 10, 2019 Finished up the wiring up front, loomed out up tidily and crimped terminals on. Parking lights, turn signals Headlights and chief. All good! Phil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted December 15, 2019 Author Share Posted December 15, 2019 Valve tool ahoy. Compressed the valve, removed the collets and then started to fight with the valve. This took 40 minutes to remove from the guide. It was just dirty. Cleaned the guide and stem up, oiled up and it drops in happily now. Spent a little time lapping in the seat. Not the easiest position... Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted December 15, 2019 Author Share Posted December 15, 2019 Valve tool ahoy. Compressed the valve, removed the collets and then started to fight with the valve. This took 40 minutes to remove from the guide. It was just dirty. Cleaned the guide and stem up, oiled up and it drops in happily now. Spent a little time lapping in the seat. Not the easiest position... Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 7 hours ago, PhilAndrews said: Valve tool ahoy. Compressed the valve, removed the collets and then started to fight with the valve. This took 40 minutes to remove from the guide. It was just dirty. Cleaned the guide and stem up, oiled up and it drops in happily now. Spent a little time lapping in the seat. Not the easiest position... Phil yes i can remember when getting up on fender and under the hood was easy lol, but not not lol. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted December 19, 2019 Author Share Posted December 19, 2019 That one doesn't seal because the head is bent... I am going to need a couple new valves, I think. Going to pull the rest and inspect them, being as there's no mechanical signs on this one of being bent, I'm thinking perhaps it was either made wrong or wasn't heat treated or is the wrong metal mix or something. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john hess Posted December 19, 2019 Share Posted December 19, 2019 Hi phil... Kanter has valves... Local machine shop should be able to straighen them also... If you have a 'local' shop John in pa 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted December 19, 2019 Author Share Posted December 19, 2019 I don't know any local machine shop that would do that- there really aren't many places left around here who aren't just parts fitters. --Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cevensky Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 Phil, give a call to Terrill Machine (two-five-four) 893-261zero. He was able to supply me every part for my straight eight rebuild, valves included. The parts are the same as or better quality than the others and his prices can not be beat. He’s fair on shipping, close by, and a gentleman to boot. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted December 20, 2019 Author Share Posted December 20, 2019 Thanks for that - I want to get the rest of the valves out first and inspect them and the guides before making any calls. It's been cold and I've not felt like crawling around under the car - plus to do it without losing the collets is a two-person job because I can't reach to give the valve head a tap once the spring tension is taken up and the valve stem is supported... Hopefully this weekend I can make some progress. --Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cevensky Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 I’m pretty sure your block is the same as mine, be careful of the holes in the bottom of the valve gallery. I plugged them with something so the collets wouldn’t fall through. If you’re worried, a good magnet placed next to the bottom of the valve stem will catch the collets. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted December 20, 2019 Author Share Posted December 20, 2019 That had crossed my mind. You can see the rag stuffed in the drain hole by the valve missing the spring- I also had Magnet-On-A-Stick (very useful tool) sitting in the gallery which was used to pluck the collets! Putting them back on is better, a bit of grease on the inside of the collet and it sticks to the stem and stays there. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john hess Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 Yes.. plug the holes.. I found 2 mystery parts (valve keepers) in the oil pan when i pulled my pan for rebuild awhile back !! John 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted December 21, 2019 Author Share Posted December 21, 2019 Started pulling valves out. Everything needed a good clean- that there is post clean. All but one of the valves removed so far are good. Still don't know cause but replacing it will help. Gotta rotate the crank round and get the last 4 out. Phil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted December 22, 2019 Author Share Posted December 22, 2019 Block looks pretty barren now. Seats look good though. Valves all clean, but I'm thinking about getting an ultrasonic bath, doing springs and stuff in gasoline with a brass brush is horrible. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted December 25, 2019 Author Share Posted December 25, 2019 Happy Holidays, y'all. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted December 27, 2019 Author Share Posted December 27, 2019 I made a guide brush by chopping up a toothbrush and gluing it to a piece of dowel. The glue is setting right now, I'll see if it works tomorrow. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted December 27, 2019 Share Posted December 27, 2019 3 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said: I made a guide brush by chopping up a toothbrush and gluing it to a piece of dowel. The glue is setting right now, I'll see if it works tomorrow. Phil what about using rifle bore cleaning brushes ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted December 27, 2019 Author Share Posted December 27, 2019 I had considered that but I had this to hand and figured it is only going to be ruined in the process so why spend anything on destroying a tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted December 27, 2019 Author Share Posted December 27, 2019 The brush proved effective, flushing through the guides with brake cleaner and oiling them up with clean oil afterwards. Starting to lap the valves in, ran out of time tonight but hopefully I can finish up 15 this weekend. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted January 4, 2020 Author Share Posted January 4, 2020 Painted the workshop, was too plain. Need to find my paintbrushes. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted January 4, 2020 Author Share Posted January 4, 2020 Starting to take shape. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 You drew and painted the wall??? If you did it looks great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted January 5, 2020 Author Share Posted January 5, 2020 (edited) Sure did. Figured the plain white was just too... plain. Still a bit to do yet. Phil Edited January 5, 2020 by PhilAndrews (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 That is awesome. I guess your profession is artist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted January 6, 2020 Author Share Posted January 6, 2020 1 hour ago, GARY F said: That is awesome. I guess your profession is artist. No sir. By trade I'm a network engineer, I make the Internet happen. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 Going to call that done, I think. Regular scheduled programming will resume soon. Phil 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 (edited) I set about cleaning the valve spring components, oiled them back up. Brand new exhaust valve arrived in from California Pontiac Restoration. I lapped it in to the seat and it sits nicely now. Had a little time yesterday to work on the car so managed to fit the springs to the intake and exhaust of #1 cylinder, and set the clearances to 13 thou'. Phil Edited January 12, 2020 by PhilAndrews Spelling (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 Alright, there's all the springs back on. Clearances next, then it can all go back together. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 One valve was way off- but it runs again. Need to fill up the radiator and run it up to warm and set the clearances properly. Phil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 Sounds a little better now, cleaned all the cobwebs out. Phil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted January 19, 2020 Author Share Posted January 19, 2020 Bought some tube and fittings and reconnected the oil pressure line. Need to get some P clips. Now all my gauges work properly. Phil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 5 hours ago, PhilAndrews said: Bought some tube and fittings and reconnected the oil pressure line. Need to get some P clips. Now all my gauges work properly. Phil awesome phil. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 Pontiac dashboard design rules! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 I do rather enjoy looking at the gauges. I ran the car up to warm and the temperature gauge was pointing to about 210- I got worried and checked the temperature of the head, thermostat housing, radiator with my handheld infrared thermometer, the hottest part was the thermostat housing at 175F, the temperature sender was about 165. I then remembered I calibrated the gauge at 12.0 Volts- with the engine running a stable 14.4 was making it over read and with the engine off it was reading somewhere correct, so I think it has a voltage regulator in it's future to be useful. Other than that I'm fighting with the vacuum system for the wipers and particularly the screenwash bottle, which refuses to pump given the volume flow through the wiper motor valve. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted February 1, 2020 Author Share Posted February 1, 2020 Not a great deal to report right now, but I'm going to see about sending the wiper motor off for rebuild. Front driver's side brake adjuster locknut cane off without too much of a fight. Cleaned it up. ...and painted it black. Drum off next, bearings will get a clean and fresh grease, I will free up and lubricate the lower adjuster then reassemble it all and set the brakes. Phil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted February 5, 2020 Author Share Posted February 5, 2020 Previous keeper overpacked the hub with grease. A small amount got into the drum and onto the edge of the brake shoes. Thoroughly degreased the hub and drum, rubbed the outside down and gave it a coat of paint. Shoes next up to be thoroughly cleaned. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted February 15, 2020 Author Share Posted February 15, 2020 As much as it's nice to have a fairly comprehensive set of gauges in the dash, I do like having a couple of attention-getters for important things, particularly as the oil pressure gauge is rather lethargic. So, I fabricated a little under-dash light board that's fairly inconspicuous. Heat stamped the meaning of each light (changed the colors around because the orange is more visible and the oil pressure concerns me much more than the charging system) so that's good for now. Decided to just shotgun the brake cylinders so that's on hold while I save up for the parts, hence doing stuff that costs nothing because I had the parts to hand. Phil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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