cevensky Posted November 5, 2019 Share Posted November 5, 2019 Phil, are you operating with no gaskets between the manifolds and between the manifolds and block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 5, 2019 Author Share Posted November 5, 2019 (edited) Bloo: Had the head off, it had a little corrosion that was causing two valves to hang up when the stems got warm and free up when the guide caught up to their expansion- the valves are stainless so have a different coefficient. Head gasket is perfect, the deck and head are both totally flat. The manifold.. is not. It's now flat along most of its length, with the center 2 exhaust ports sitting back a bit, one intake runner being a fraction off (come back to that), originally the rear section of the manifold had a warp. Cevensky: Yes, but not the proper ones so the seal they form isn't as good as it should be. I think the mixture is getting funky on pots 5 and 6. Yes, I need to get the manifold properly decked. It's a case of finding a decent shop to do it- those are few and far between here. So, until then I can take the gap up with gasket and it's going to have to be a compromise. Phil Edited November 5, 2019 by PhilAndrews (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 11, 2019 Author Share Posted November 11, 2019 Weather was nice Saturday and I had a bit of time so I started on the roof. There's a lot of real estate. I really need a machine polisher. Finished up later on because the sun was getting a little warm. Cleaned all the chrome up. Getting better. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 13, 2019 Author Share Posted November 13, 2019 Hard freeze coming. Time to drain the water out. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 13, 2019 Author Share Posted November 13, 2019 Tail light question. Will a 1950 lens fit a 1951/52 housing? It looks like they're the same diameter but the 51-52 lens is significantly more domed. My tail light lenses have had it and I'm looking to see if I can get something that is either correct or very nearly correct until I can find the correct lenses. 51-52 lenses seem thin on the ground but 49-50 lenses are fairly easy to find. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted November 13, 2019 Share Posted November 13, 2019 52 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said: Tail light question. Will a 1950 lens fit a 1951/52 housing? It looks like they're the same diameter but the 51-52 lens is significantly more domed. My tail light lenses have had it and I'm looking to see if I can get something that is either correct or very nearly correct until I can find the correct lenses. 51-52 lenses seem thin on the ground but 49-50 lenses are fairly easy to find. Phil i believe the lens diameter may be the same, getting bigger on 53-54 chieftains, and bigger again on 54 star chiefs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted November 13, 2019 Share Posted November 13, 2019 5 minutes ago, pontiac1953 said: i believe the lens diameter may be the same, getting bigger on 53-54 chieftains, and bigger again on 54 star chiefs. there is several listings on ebay for pontiacs 1952 taillight lens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 13, 2019 Author Share Posted November 13, 2019 8 hours ago, pontiac1953 said: there is several listings on ebay for pontiacs 1952 taillight lens Yeah, but a lot of them have seen the same amount of sun. I was looking at reproduction ones. There's a few offered in glass, which will hold up much better to the sunshine down here than plastic. But, they're all '50 fitment. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 13, 2019 Author Share Posted November 13, 2019 There's a size difference between them. Typical. Tried to cheer one of the lenses up. Not perfect by any means but it's better than it was. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 17, 2019 Author Share Posted November 17, 2019 On the car, the redone lens looks significantly better. I need to get some more lacquer. Cleaned up the overflow pipe for the radiator. Need to flux and solder it in place. Also decided to hook up the strobe again and found that cylinders 1 and 8 are firing at the same time. That'll be the distributor cap definitely no good then. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 48-49 radio suppression distributor cap nos, should fit your distributor too. $30.00 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 20, 2019 Author Share Posted November 20, 2019 (edited) Okay. I was once told there are no stupid questions, so here's one. The manual states "remove the drum", however 60 years of rust and nonsense have occurred. It looks as though the hub and drum are two separate entities but I don't want to be fighting to remove things in the wrong fashion. I've never had to pull this series of brakes apart before. I've had ones with separate drums, drums that are hub integral and these don't give too much clue. Phil Edited November 20, 2019 by PhilAndrews (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 20, 2019 Author Share Posted November 20, 2019 Ne'er mind, it's an integral unit. The rear ones slide off the hub. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 (edited) hi phil, the front hub and front brake drum are an integral unit, only because the lug bolt shaft has splines long enough to bite into both parts, when i needed 1/4" longer lug bolts to keep 100% lug nut thread contact while using a 1/4" wheel spacer, i went to NAPA auto parts store and bought them, the bonus was the new lug bolt splines were only long enough to bite completely into the hub but not the brake drum, now my front drums will slide off the front hubs by hand, just like the rear drums always have. Edited November 20, 2019 by pontiac1953 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 20, 2019 Author Share Posted November 20, 2019 I'll stick with the hub and drum coming off together, in that case. I just prefer not because that's dirt ingress where it doesn't need any but I guess pull off, wash out and repack is not too much trouble. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted November 20, 2019 Share Posted November 20, 2019 6 hours ago, PhilAndrews said: I'll stick with the hub and drum coming off together, in that case. I just prefer not because that's dirt ingress where it doesn't need any but I guess pull off, wash out and repack is not too much trouble. Phil will be easier to handle, repack the bearings with the drum out of the way. i'm changing the front inner and outer wheel bearings to the better tapered roller bearings i bought. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 22, 2019 Author Share Posted November 22, 2019 Had thirty minutes tonight so I head out to the garage. Scrubbing brush and gasoline. Since when, in the history of never, has anybody just scrubbed at brakes and they came up nice? The mind boggles Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 23, 2019 Author Share Posted November 23, 2019 Drum/hub assembly removed. Doesn't look too bad but I didn't have any time to examine any more. Twenty minutes in the garage at a time this week. Phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 23, 2019 Author Share Posted November 23, 2019 Cleaned and re-greased and reassembled. However, top adjuster locknut is seized solid. That's on the to-do list. At least I know why that brake was so poor. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 24, 2019 Author Share Posted November 24, 2019 Again, stupid question. The locknut on the anchor pin- regular thread? Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john hess Posted November 24, 2019 Share Posted November 24, 2019 If you mean right or left hand, they are all right hand thread.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 24, 2019 Author Share Posted November 24, 2019 Yes, sorry. R/H thread. I wanted to make sure I wasn't trying to tighten the nut onto the anchor pin shaft. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 24, 2019 Author Share Posted November 24, 2019 4' breaker bar and a good bit of my bodyweight saw that let go with a loud CLANK. I also freed up the top anchor adjuster. I now just need to follow procedure to get it all adjusted back up again. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Summershandy Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 On 11/23/2019 at 6:42 PM, PhilAndrews said: Cleaned and re-greased and reassembled. However, top adjuster locknut is seized solid. That's on the to-do list. At least I know why that brake was so poor. Phil Just curious, have you checked the shoe adjustment from the adjustment screw first? Sometimes that's enough before having to do the anchor pin adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 25, 2019 Author Share Posted November 25, 2019 18 minutes ago, Summershandy said: Just curious, have you checked the shoe adjustment from the adjustment screw first? Sometimes that's enough before having to do the anchor pin adjustment. I did, and I had too much gap at the top of the shoes. I needed to get the anchor adjusted. Mostly because it looks and feels like that hadn't been touched for a long time and when the brakes were "redone" they just tried to take the slack up in the lower adjuster. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 Leading shoe up against drum. Trailing shoe 0.015" clearance all around. Better Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 Found the problem with the misfire. Brand new spark plug is bad. New doesn't always mean good. Go figure. At least I know what the problem is now. Phil 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 Bad plug hiding other problems Valves need to come out, get polished, guides need checking and then hopefully that should see the end of this nonsense Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Summershandy Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 Is it just not starting now? When I first got my car I had cleaned/rebuilt the carb among many other things. It was pretty gunked. Also rebuilt the fuel pump, parts were breaking down in there too. I could start the car and drive around the neighbourhood. The next day it wouldn't start. I had made sure I changed the fuel filters...both of them. I found that odd. The carb was getting fuel so I tore the carb down again. It was full of crap. I cleaned the carb again, started and went for a spin. Same thing the next day. I figured there must be an issue in the gas tank. It looked like WWII in there including the sending unit that was seized. The sending unit had the sock cut off maybe for better flow. New fuel system and I haven't looked back. I also now know why there were 2 fuel filters in the system. One before and one after the pump tsk, tsk... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 No, it starts and runs but as it gets warm the valves are tightening up and getting stuck open. It's storage and previous owners that's caused that. I just need to pull the valves, clean them and their guides and that should remedy this issue. The fuel that was in the tank was cloudy yellow from storage though. Ethanol likes to suck the water up out of the air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 when you put in new plugs, always gap them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 10 minutes ago, GARY F said: when you put in new plugs, always gap them. Thirty five thou'. First leaf in my gauge set. They must have known... Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 4 hours ago, PhilAndrews said: Thirty five thou'. First leaf in my gauge set. They must have known... Phil proper plug gap is twenty five thousand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 9 minutes ago, pontiac1953 said: proper plug gap is twenty five thousand. Hm. Manual is telling me lies. It says 16 thou points and 35 plugs. I'll buy 25 thou'. I'm used to 32 on my A-series engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 54 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said: Hm. Manual is telling me lies. It says 16 thou points and 35 plugs. I'll buy 25 thou'. I'm used to 32 on my A-series engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 (edited) I didn't not believe you! As with any manuals, there's always some disagreement. Or I just read it wrong and my memory is not doing its job. Either way Phil Edited November 28, 2019 by PhilAndrews (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 39 minutes ago, PhilAndrews said: I didn't not believe you! As with any manuals, there's always some disagreement. Or I just read it wrong and my memory is not doing its job. Either way Phil i didn't think that of you phil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 5 hours ago, pontiac1953 said: i didn't think that of you phil. Just saying I'm willing to stand corrected! Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 Wishing y'all a happy Thanksgiving! Question to the knowledgeable, does anyone know where to get a replacement lower steering box bushing for a non-power 51 Chieftain? Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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