Lock cylinder

[Candi]

I am in need of assistance. I need to have a new key made for the ignition in a 1934 Buick 61 series. The car is all original. The key that came with the car is a Briggs and Stratton key that barely works. Sometimes the key won't turn or I can't get the key out. It takes quite a bit of finagling to get it to work. The manuals I have do not specify how to remove the cylinder. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance.

[Spinneyhill]

A locksmith will make a new key for you. Phone around.

[DavidAU]

Spray some WD40 into the lock and it will help with turning the key and getting it in and out while you get a new key made.

[HarryLime]

DO NOT use WD40 on a lock cylinder, or anything else you want to keep. It creates a gummy mess ! Talk to locksmiths here or ask where you live. 

[Frank DuVal]

Lock-Ease.  A powdered graphite in solvent solution. 

 

Not it recommended for GM cars with resistor pellets, but that 1934 Buick is at least 50 years before the VATS resistor system!😉

 

B&S made keys for GM for. Loooong time!

[Hubert_25-25]

Do you have the tumbler numbers.   Jesserclassickeys will cut you a new key from a B&S blank.  You may be dealing with a poor cut copy.  Lock ease is the thing to use in the lock cylinder. 

you should move your posting to the Buick Pre War section.  

 

Edited January 6, 2019 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

[Spinneyhill]

If it is anything like the B & S locks used in my 1930 Dodge, it has die cast lock body. DO NOT put graphite near it! It will promote and greatly speed up oxidation of the zinc in the die-cast and destruction of the lock. 

 

Use a silicon spray. Another dry lubricant is a PTFE spray: CRC Dry Glide is one and Rocol make one, which is a lot cheaper in this country.

Edited January 6, 2019 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[Vila]

Some of the GM cars of that era have a small hole in the front of the ignition switch to remove the lock cylinder. 

 

If your Buick has this small hole in the front of the ignition switch near the key hole, stick your key in the ignition and insert a straightened paperclip in the extra hole.  I can't remember if you need to turn the key slightly or press the paperclip in more, but on early GM cars that have this extra hole the ignition lock will then pop out.

 

The key code may be stamped on the lock cylinder, if you can get it out.

Edited January 6, 2019 by Vila (see edit history)

[Frank DuVal]

The ones with the "paper clip" hole, insert correct key, then turn the cylinder CCW after inserting the paperclip.

 

1934 is the year before GM went to the popular B-10 blank that was used from 1934 to 1966 for ignition keys.   Could be B-1, B-2, B-3, B-4 , B-24 etc.....  A locksmith with an old company will know by looking at the key.

 

Very interesting. Never heard the graphite and pot metal being non-compatible. Every B&S lock cylinder I have seen (ignition, door, trunk) is some sort of pot metal, and I've lubed them with graphite for many (50+) years. Just lucky or different formulas of pot metal.😉

[Candi]

12 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

A locksmith will make a new key for you. Phone around.

Edited January 6, 2019 by Candi (see edit history)

[Candi]

Thanks to everyone for the tips. I really appreciate all of the info.

Edited January 6, 2019 by Candi (see edit history)

[Grimy]

First, my locksmith uses Tri-Flow aerosol lubricant rather than Lock-ease, which I used successfully for decades.  So now I give all my locks, house and auto, an annual treatment of Tri-Flow.  I do a short blast into the keyway, then lube all portions of the key itself, backed with a paper towel.

Second, these 1930s coincidental locks work just like those on a modern car *in that* you may need to rock the wheel left to right while trying to turn the key; that is, if the wheel has been turned after being locked there may be a load on the lock itself which must be relieved.

Third, on cars with these locks, I almost always leave them unlocked and rely on a hidden battery shutoff for security.