ThinWallet Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 Hi Guys and Gals, I'm currently doing the rear main seal on a Small Block Chevy, in my 1972 k10. Seems to have gone well, waiting for RTV to dry before finishing up. But I noticed this engine has an aftermarket Chrome dipstick and tube, and it seems to be hitting right into the oil pickup. As in, it wont let the dipstick go down all the way. I checked the pickup clearance to the bottom of the oil pan and it seems like a good height, around 3/16". So, where should the dipstick be? Above the pickup I would imagine, I could put 2 or 3 tight bends in it to make back the length, or bend it to sit behind the oil pickup. Or just trim it as it is and be happy with the positioning. Engine is a 2 bolt main 350 (so no bottom tube, the tubing ends at the oil pan sealing surface), from a 76 Chevy car. Currently not even close to hitting the crank. Any help is appreciated, trying to not throw too much more money or time at this thing. Thank you, Dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 I have no idea but I would replace the chrome with a dipstick and tube that is correct for that engine and eliminate the guess work 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThinWallet Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 (edited) Unfortunately I don't have one, and the local auto place does not either. I'd rather have the engine together today then wait around. I guess a good question would be, where does the stock one line up too? If I have to it might be a case of calling every store around until I find one, but if a stock one does the same thing I would be right back to here... *Edited to add: Also, I like the chrome, hopefully I can keep it and just re-position the dipstick. Edited November 1, 2018 by ThinWallet (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 Sounds like trimming it is the way to go. When you refill the crankcase and run the engine to get oil in the filter then you can determine the correct fill level on the stick and scribe mark it’s location onto the stick. Then with experimentation you can determine the one quart low mark too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThinWallet Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 Thank you, I guess that is what I'll do for now then. Eventually this engine will need a rebuild, or this truck will need another engine at that time I will make sure these things are sorted before doing it on my back on concrete while holding the flashlight. Good point too about remarking the stick. I'll make sure to do that. I appreciate the help, Dan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46 woodie Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 I Googled 1072 Chevrolet K10 dipstick and see several places that have them, also try a scrapyard. Having too much oil in an engine is as bad as not enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 Just put in the required amount of oil including the filter, run it then wait a few minutes then insert the dipstick as you will now know the proper level. That is unless I misunderstood the query. RTV? Yuk. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 2 hours ago, ThinWallet said: Unfortunately I don't have one, and the local auto place does not either. This isn't a normal wear item. Local parts stores won't stock them. On the other hand, this is a small block Chevy. EVERYONE sells parts for these. Check repro parts vendors like LMC Truck, Brothers Trucks, Classic Industries, etc, etc. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike6024 Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 Apparently it requires 5 quarts with filter change, unless you have one of the unusual small oil pans like came on the 305 ci. Here is a discussion on another forum: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/4-quarts-of-oil-in-an-sbc-350.54993/ Put 5qts in it with filter change and mark the stick that's how much oil that motor is supposed to hold . GREGG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThinWallet Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 I did not pull the oil filter for this job, just drained the pan, then pulled it and the oil pump/rear main. Have put rear main and oil pump back, verified I like where the oil pickup sits in the engine, and just wanted to check this before doing the pan. Guess i'll replace the filter and treat it like a proper oil change. I am currently occupied by other projects but would like to have this back together today so I can use the truck this weekend to haul some 2x4's, really light work but rather not use the sedan. As long as I know where full is on the dipstick I think I will be fine for now. I would imagine I'll be pulling this engine for a rebuild in the next year or two, so it just needs to be able to survive occasional weekend duty until then. I will try getting under a stock engine before the rebuild to see where the dipstick is supposed to rest. This is the first time I have pulled a pan and saw one hit, so I never paid attention before to where it was in relation to the pickup. Is there a general rule for this? Like say bottom should be 1/2" above the pickup line, or is it a crap shoot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThinWallet Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 (edited) Just saw the last comment on the thread Mike linked too, seems like 1/2 below crank weights is a good ballpark for maximum. While the pan is off that should be easy enough to mark on the stick. Thanks all, this is always something that seems so insignificant but can make a large difference. As this is just a truck engine that's used for housework its not as critical as a race engine or something but as I'm just getting into breaking down engines to rebuild its good to learn why things are as they are. And Jack, to be fair its not so much RTV as Permatex Copper, just a dab on the mating surfaces of rear main cap to block, I've heard of people getting away without it but even FelPro recommends it, oh well. Edited November 1, 2018 by ThinWallet Picture inserted when not wanted (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 I had to sort out this mess on my truck a while back. I replaced the rear main seal also. It was a case of "while I'm in there" on the occasion of the cam going flat. The engine (which I did not build) is a smallblock chevy built out of truly random parts. The dipstick tube was wrong, chrome, on upside down, and I found a piece of another dipstick tube still in the block. I had been guessing about the oil level for decades. There are more permutations of that silly dipstick than most people realize. Truck pans hold more oil IIRC. My truck had a car pan, and I left it that way. The dipstick hole can be on either side of the block. Are you sure you shouldn't have a lower tube? I wish I could add more here, but I can't remember exactly how I figured it out. Probably by the casting number, and measuring to the crank as suggested above. As it turned out, I already had the right dipstick, but needed a new upper and lower tube, and needed to clean a broken piece out of the block. One thing I can add is that the Corvette parts houses (Ecklers, etc) have literally everything in reproduction if you can just figure out what you need. Best of luck with it, and I hope it doesn't drag out too long for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThinWallet Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 Thank you all! The issue has been rectified. In short, the oil pickup was off. Apparently after adjusting/verifying the height I liked it at to the bottom of the pan, I left it sort of loose and must have bumped while working under there. Re-checked height, and was way off. The pickup actually sat on an upward angle... how I didn't notice that immediately I have no idea. But with the oil pickup at the correct angle the dipstick is fine, I guess that's why I never noticed the issue with the engine together. Thanks again folks, sometimes I guess the frustration of a project clouts clear thought. -Dan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheezestaak2000 Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 when in doubt, you could drain oil, put in 1 quart short of full. that would give you correct place on dipstick, or as gm calls it, "bayonet gauge" to scribe a mark for "add". then add a quart to show you where the full mark should be. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThinWallet Posted November 8, 2018 Author Share Posted November 8, 2018 Thanks cheezestaak2000, the issue I had was on a torn apart engine, was curious where the dipstick is supposed to sit, not how much fluid the engine holds. That would have worked though if I did modify the dipstick. For anyone interested, with the oil pickup at the correct angle in a stock pan, the dipstick is actually right over the pickup, with about 1/4-1/2" clearance between the two. Makes sense to me, you want the pickup to be submerged and the full line is around 1/4" under where a wind-age tray would be. Also, turns out this chrome dipstick is the same length as stock, I was able to compare to a buddies truck this week. Always a fun question, "Hey can you show me your dipstick quick, I want to compare the length to mine" lol 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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