ThinWallet

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  1. Thanks cheezestaak2000, the issue I had was on a torn apart engine, was curious where the dipstick is supposed to sit, not how much fluid the engine holds. That would have worked though if I did modify the dipstick. For anyone interested, with the oil pickup at the correct angle in a stock pan, the dipstick is actually right over the pickup, with about 1/4-1/2" clearance between the two. Makes sense to me, you want the pickup to be submerged and the full line is around 1/4" under where a wind-age tray would be. Also, turns out this chrome dipstick is the same length as stock, I was able to compare to a buddies truck this week. Always a fun question, "Hey can you show me your dipstick quick, I want to compare the length to mine" lol
  2. Thank you all! The issue has been rectified. In short, the oil pickup was off. Apparently after adjusting/verifying the height I liked it at to the bottom of the pan, I left it sort of loose and must have bumped while working under there. Re-checked height, and was way off. The pickup actually sat on an upward angle... how I didn't notice that immediately I have no idea. But with the oil pickup at the correct angle the dipstick is fine, I guess that's why I never noticed the issue with the engine together. Thanks again folks, sometimes I guess the frustration of a project clouts clear thought. -Dan
  3. Just saw the last comment on the thread Mike linked too, seems like 1/2 below crank weights is a good ballpark for maximum. While the pan is off that should be easy enough to mark on the stick. Thanks all, this is always something that seems so insignificant but can make a large difference. As this is just a truck engine that's used for housework its not as critical as a race engine or something but as I'm just getting into breaking down engines to rebuild its good to learn why things are as they are. And Jack, to be fair its not so much RTV as Permatex Copper, just a dab on the mating surfaces of rear main cap to block, I've heard of people getting away without it but even FelPro recommends it, oh well.
  4. I did not pull the oil filter for this job, just drained the pan, then pulled it and the oil pump/rear main. Have put rear main and oil pump back, verified I like where the oil pickup sits in the engine, and just wanted to check this before doing the pan. Guess i'll replace the filter and treat it like a proper oil change. I am currently occupied by other projects but would like to have this back together today so I can use the truck this weekend to haul some 2x4's, really light work but rather not use the sedan. As long as I know where full is on the dipstick I think I will be fine for now. I would imagine I'll be pulling this engine for a rebuild in the next year or two, so it just needs to be able to survive occasional weekend duty until then. I will try getting under a stock engine before the rebuild to see where the dipstick is supposed to rest. This is the first time I have pulled a pan and saw one hit, so I never paid attention before to where it was in relation to the pickup. Is there a general rule for this? Like say bottom should be 1/2" above the pickup line, or is it a crap shoot?
  5. Thank you, I guess that is what I'll do for now then. Eventually this engine will need a rebuild, or this truck will need another engine at that time I will make sure these things are sorted before doing it on my back on concrete while holding the flashlight. Good point too about remarking the stick. I'll make sure to do that. I appreciate the help, Dan
  6. Unfortunately I don't have one, and the local auto place does not either. I'd rather have the engine together today then wait around. I guess a good question would be, where does the stock one line up too? If I have to it might be a case of calling every store around until I find one, but if a stock one does the same thing I would be right back to here... *Edited to add: Also, I like the chrome, hopefully I can keep it and just re-position the dipstick.
  7. Hi Guys and Gals, I'm currently doing the rear main seal on a Small Block Chevy, in my 1972 k10. Seems to have gone well, waiting for RTV to dry before finishing up. But I noticed this engine has an aftermarket Chrome dipstick and tube, and it seems to be hitting right into the oil pickup. As in, it wont let the dipstick go down all the way. I checked the pickup clearance to the bottom of the oil pan and it seems like a good height, around 3/16". So, where should the dipstick be? Above the pickup I would imagine, I could put 2 or 3 tight bends in it to make back the length, or bend it to sit behind the oil pickup. Or just trim it as it is and be happy with the positioning. Engine is a 2 bolt main 350 (so no bottom tube, the tubing ends at the oil pan sealing surface), from a 76 Chevy car. Currently not even close to hitting the crank. Any help is appreciated, trying to not throw too much more money or time at this thing. Thank you, Dan.
  8. Just the way I look at it, when your done you will have a 16k (lots of assumptions that a dollar in = a dollar out, rarely the case but can be) car that your saying you will not do the work on, so would you turn around and buy a finished version of that car today for 14k? 18k? If not, I wouldn't restore. But maybe a freshening up, see if you can get it going well for 5k and drive it/sell it?
  9. Hello, Long time lurker of this site but finally getting around to having an account. I own a 1923 Ford, 1948 Buick, and a 1972 Silverado. I have been searching for fender skirts for my 1948 Buick Roadmaster , and I also need rock guards and the trim that goes over them. As you can see in the photo it appears I need 5 pieces. he 3 chrome and 2 body painted parts. I only need passenger side (iirc- honestly haven't even scene the car this season) but would be willing to buy both sides. If anyone has any for sale, or knows if other models would crossover or of a website to obtain them, that would also be helpful. Thank you and happy motoring. *Picture attached is not mine, was found via a quick google search.