1953 Buick special fuel pump vapor lock problem

[Ruff41]

  Hopefully  someone out there can help me  my 53 on warm days when the  Engine is warmed up as I’m driving down the road will stop running the only way I can restart the engine is if I put a wet rag on top of the fuel pump as soon as I do that the engine will run fine until the rag dries out any  suggestions?  Thanks 

[1956322]

Could be a weak pump ... Clogged filter... But first thing I would check and replace if I haven't already done so is replace all rubber fuel hoses and make sure to go all the way back to the fuel tank

[1956322]

Oh and if the gas is on the older side maybe it's still winter blend

[Ruff41]

 No it’s new gas I’m wondering if it’s the ethanol  because it hasn’t done it before until these new ethanol blends came out .

[Ruff41]

 Oh and in cold weather it runs fine .

[1956322]

It's definitely the ethanol... Double check all rubber hoses especially back by the tank...a lot of times there's a short rubber hose at the tank connecting the sending unit to the metal line that runs along the frame.. That hose is always forgotten about.. Yours might not have the set up but worth checking.... You might have to add an electric pump... On my 56 I have an electric pump.. Daily drive it here in new Mexico in 100 plus degree weather no problems

[SpecialEducation]

1.  Stay away from ethanol. 

2.  Shield the pump & lines from heat.

3.  Install an electric pump. The higher the pressure, the lower the vaporization point. Put the regulator as close as you can to the carb. 

4. Create a tank return so excess fuel is circulated through. Faster moving fuel picks up less heat spends less time forward of the firewall where it’s hot. 

[Pete Phillips]

Here is a '37 Roadmaster that I did some of the restoration on. The owner had lots of vapor lock until he took my advice and wrapped the fuel line with insulated foil such as you find on residential heating and air conditioning ducts. He drove the car to our local show last Saturday in 90-degree weather and had no vapor lock after this.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

[NTX5467]

Return lines can be done . . . BUT so long as the amount of fuel being returned doesn't decrease the amount going to the carb!  There were a few "vapor separators" used OEM in the 1970-era model years, which returned fuel to the fuel tank.  Easy to add.  Chrysler had some and I believe Chevy did too?

 

NTX5467

[Ruff41]

 Thanks everybody for the info I think I’m going to start with an electric fuel pump  and see how that goes 

[Fr. Buick]

Don't run it all the time.  Leave the mechanical for normal operation, and have a switch for the electric pump as a back-up.

[old-tank]

20 hours ago, Ruff41 said:

 Thanks everybody for the info I think I’m going to start with an electric fuel pump  and see how that goes 

An electric pump is a good idea, but replace or rebuild the mechanical pump.  And while it is off check the fuel lines (including the section inside the tank) for pinhole leaks.  Vapor lock occurs on the suction side of the fuel pump which includes that portion of the pump and any line to the fuel.  Vapor lock does not occur for long between the pump and carb since any pump will push fuel and vapor, but not pull vapor.

[Rosiesdad]

I did this; 12psi pump at tank bypass the mech pump straight to the gas filter then to the tee fitting with a pipe to 1/8 Swaglok copper line return to tank.  Only thing that worked for me. Before you could see the ethylene boil in the filter. Thank the politicians and corn lobbyists for that!

Phil