rageracing Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 Thought I would start a thread on the 33. Problems so far that I see are the hood fitment, broken drivers side front main leaf, half welded, half bolted trans crossmembers because it has 35 drivetrain parts, fuel and brake lines need redone/re-routed, leaking radiator, exhaust. I bought a 33 engine and trans out of a 33 humpback so that part can eventually be addressed. Bought new leaf spring packs from Eaton spring, should have them in 2 weeks or so. Do people usually pull new packs apart to paint the individual springs or just paint it assembled? They springs will most likely be raw steel when they arrive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted January 19, 2018 Author Share Posted January 19, 2018 forgot the pictures! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 On the new springs I would just paint them as a unit without taking them apart. Depending on what kind of leaf straps they're using it might be hard to get them apart. That truck does have it's share of woes, mainly due to some previous owner that made that engine change. I guess you got all the brackets and pedal setup with that engine. Shouldn't be too hard to change that out. Looks as though the hood needs to be pulled back and realigned and I see there is a homemade spacer between the hood and grille shell. I would check out the steering box too, last time I saw that truck the steering shaft had quite a bit of sideways movement in it. I was always curious as to what might have happened to the side of the cab where it's all crunched! I was going to help Vic change that engine and tranny before he decided to sell it, never did get my ride. Nice that it has the chrome lamps and grille shell, a little unusual for a truck during the depression! I think it's a really nice truck for the shape it's in and you should have a lot of fun with it! Just curious, what's up on the lift, looks like a '35-'36 sedan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted January 19, 2018 Author Share Posted January 19, 2018 That’s my 34 PE. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted January 19, 2018 Author Share Posted January 19, 2018 Don’t worry the offer for your ride is still good if you are ever in the reading,pa area Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted January 19, 2018 Author Share Posted January 19, 2018 I don’t see a spacer between the hood and grill shell. I’ll get another picture when I get home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 Some more pictures of things that need addressed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 They had cut out the spare tire support bracket that extends between the bell housing and oil pan. I would think a new wiring harness might be a good idea! Trucks in good shape overall though! Maybe that's not a spacer but the front hood hing itself. I didn't pay too much attention to the gap when I saw it.I know that the radiator support rods were replaced so maybe it just needs pulled back. We were planning to pull the front end off to change out the brackets and engine anyway. Nice sedan! Is it all original too? I could have bought an original '34 Dodge 4 door sedan at the Macungie, PA show about 15 years ago but thought the $13,000 price tag was a bit much at the time, so I end up with a '36 which I have invested twice that amount in and am still not done! What's Forest say, " stupid is as stupid does"! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 The sedan is original as well. Do you happen to know a dimension that the top hood should be set too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 (edited) I really don't know if they even listed a dimension for clearance. I would say that 1/4 in. would probably be good. Don't want it too tight or there might be rubbing due to body flex. It might be that the radiator hose is a little too long, not allowing the radiator to tilt back any farther. I don't know if there is any length difference between the '33 engine and the one that's in there now that's restricting the radiator clearance. There might be oblong holes in the frame mount that will allow for a little more front-back movement of the radiator, at least in my '36 there is. You inquired on the other post about the originality of the grille shell. The chrome parts were available as an option at the time and I have seen several other trucks, even heavy trucks, with the option so I do think that it's original to the truck. I don't know if Vic ever sent for the build card but that would tell you for sure. It is a nice option, really dresses up the truck. Edited January 21, 2018 by jpage (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 What kind of insurance do you use? I use Hagerty now but they pretty much don’t allow you to drive the cars. I was told if I can substitute my daily then it’s not covered. I don’t do car shows and cruises so that eliminates that. I called safeco and they seemed to fit the bill but only valued the truck at $5,000 replacement cost. I told them I’ll buy everyone they can find like that for that price. So I guess the search continues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 I currently don't have my car insured as most companies will not insure an unlicensed vehicle. I used J.C. Taylor when I had my Model A but they required a professional appraisal for anything over $10,000 at the time. I think that all of the antique insurance carriers limit mileage but I never found that a problem. If you insure under regular insurance, then you'll have to have it updated to meet current regulations and have it inspected every year, also, I'm not sure what they would base the value of your vehicles on. I think there are companies that may insure it for declared appraised value, but I'm sure that would be price prohibitive and would probably cover the vehicle itself and have no liability clauses. I've found that with a few exceptions , the PA driving regs. for antique vehicles are far more restrictive and ambiguous than the insurance company's but having said that, I never had any problems with the traffic laws and drove my A quite a lot without issue. Good hunting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 I have Hagerty and have more than one car on the policy that is not registered/ licensed. One hasn't been registered since about 1998 and the other I have had for at least 5 years and never registered it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 My car is not together and I had been told years ago that they would not cover an incomplete car. Maybe things have changed in the last 30 years, I have not checked since. Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 The problem I have with Hagerty is its only covered during car shows and parades. Hoping a different insurance would be more driver friendly. Safeco seems to be good that way but I think their valuation is way to low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 I believe that my insurance covered the car much like regular car insurance but it did limit the mileage per year and you could not haul for contract, people or anything else, and you could not use the car for regular conveyance. I think that there may have been some others but I can't remember. The state, at the time, allowed only daylight driving, unless the car was equipped with sealed beam lamps, 2 tailamps and turn signals and limited the usage to 1 day per week but it was never specific as how that was to be determined. I never had any issue. i always tried to avoid driving at night, although I did do some, more so for the safety aspect of not being seen by other drivers. Maybe some of the restrictions have changed as my insured period was from 1984-2000. Most of the antique carriers offer addition coverage for hard to locate parts and special services. i would check out each company first just to make sure that you get the best deal. I think at the time, I paid a yearly premium of around 200-250 for $12,000 coverage. I'm sure it's quite a bit higher now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 16 hours ago, rageracing said: The problem I have with Hagerty is its only covered during car shows and parades. Hoping a different insurance would be more driver friendly. Safeco seems to be good that way but I think their valuation is way to low. I was told occasional use was OK. They just don't want to be insuring your daily driver. I use one of my 6 cars about 2 or 3 times a week to drive about 7 miles round trip to go to the hardware store or Post Office and then a short joy ride to exercise it. I never go to car shows and doubt I put a collective 1000 miles on my collection a year. You probably have a better chance of getting in an accident going to some far off car show or worse yet a parade where no one is paying attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 Painted the new front leaf spring packs. Anyone know where to get new u-bolts from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted June 8, 2020 Author Share Posted June 8, 2020 Finally trying to get some time with the truck. Had the steering box rebuilt. I was really sloppy and was missing internal parts. The tie rods, drag links and king pins are bad. Especially the drag link, I don’t know how it actually stayed together to be honest. Is the parts interchangeable with the 33 dodge cars. Rare parts doesn’t list the parts for the 33 HC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fossil Posted June 8, 2020 Share Posted June 8, 2020 What are you going to do about the king pins? Do them yourself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 I think for now pull one side apart to measure good and match a set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fossil Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 My 30 DeSoto will get done this winter and I'm thinking of doing it. Another learning experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 Not bad to do. I’ve done them on others before. I take the spindle to a machine shop where they can hone the bushing out to be round and correct fit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted June 1, 2021 Author Share Posted June 1, 2021 Rebuilding the steering finally! Just been so busy lately. I bough parts from rare parts. Will get some pictures shortly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fossil Posted June 3, 2021 Share Posted June 3, 2021 I'm going to do the same with my steering box. Have adjusted as far as I can go and it still has slack. The spring bushings and king pins helped the driving and steering a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted June 3, 2021 Author Share Posted June 3, 2021 I located a set of tie rods from Andy Bernbaum and they are the same as the ones I removed from the truck. So the HC pickups are different then the cars. The boots are dry rotted, anyone know of someone that can redo the boots? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 Anyone know the proper drag link setting for 33 HC? The book I have says back off 4 full turns for 34 KC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knobless Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 Can you post a front end picture, I have a few complete front ends 33 ,that may save you some time one is the I beam type the other I think is tube, hub to hub and springs I believe are all there, let me know, I’m in NH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted January 2, 2022 Author Share Posted January 2, 2022 I finally got around to finishing up the steering. Is there a seal or anything that goes between the pitman arm steering box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 On my '31 . No , but I used the set-up like the model A guys use . There washer was good fit but opted for better fit on large o-ring . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted January 2, 2022 Author Share Posted January 2, 2022 There is a decent amount of room here to take up. I think originally a dust boot was there maybe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted May 3, 2022 Author Share Posted May 3, 2022 I’m guessing the pitman arm stretched so I made a spacer to get it tighter on the splines. The nut was bottoming first. If anyone knows of a good pitman arm let me know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted May 3, 2022 Author Share Posted May 3, 2022 The trans is in pretty bad shape. Doing a rebuild. It’s not proper trans for the year but I wanna get it together to keep using till I can build proper rolling chassis for it. I picked up a 34 KC frame that is in nice shape. Are the 33 and 34 frames the same minis front axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted May 3, 2022 Author Share Posted May 3, 2022 Anyone know what this trans is out of? I check end play in countershaft and it’s at .038” which is way too much. I already had the input shaft out. I believe this is correct so I need to reshim to get it back down to .002-.008” end play. Anyone know of a source for shims? Throw out bearing is wasted too. It messed the clutch up as well. Doesn’t spin too good lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted May 3, 2022 Author Share Posted May 3, 2022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted May 3, 2022 Author Share Posted May 3, 2022 Making progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted May 4, 2022 Author Share Posted May 4, 2022 New bearings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rageracing Posted May 6, 2022 Author Share Posted May 6, 2022 Everything is apart and cleaned and I’ll be bead blasting the case hopefully Monday or Tuesday. Tracked down a small parts package so that is on its way. Have some Ammco bronze stock coming in to make new bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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