38Buick 80C Posted June 15 Author Share Posted June 15 (edited) OK so I bought a polishing setup Here are some of the experimental pieces so results are mixed... the bottom piece which was pretty nice before cleaned up well the other two pieces in the top photo... meh... I need to be patient and take my time... yeah I don't do that well... but at the moment not much else going on from a car perspective so might as well do a piece or two each night and save the harder ones for last. Edited June 15 by 38Buick 80C (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted June 15 Share Posted June 15 Your polishing wheel may be too soft or your abrasive may be too fine. Be sure you have a stainless abrasive. Stainless is a whole lot harder to polish than brass. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 What type of compounds are you using on the wheels? The right compounds make all the difference. With the right ones, the wheels easily clean up the worst looking stainless. Without the right compounds, it is difficult slow frustrating work. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted June 16 Author Share Posted June 16 11 hours ago, MCHinson said: What type of compounds are you using on the wheels? The right compounds make all the difference. With the right ones, the wheels easily clean up the worst looking stainless. Without the right compounds, it is difficult slow frustrating work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BX4JHLXW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 7 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BX4JHLXW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don't know anything about those compounds but I have used the Jacksonlea black 2 inch by 2 inch compound bar and a Jacksonlea white 2 inch by 2 inch bar with good results. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drhach Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 Nothing flings parts across the shop better than a polishing wheel. 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted June 17 Share Posted June 17 Brian, I think your wheel is probably to soft. Stainless is tough. You need a wheel that is pretty rigid. What I did was, go to a plating shop and see if they have an old used wheel - those are tough. My stainless turned out perfect. You would have to make an adapter so it will fit the shaft on your motor. The plating shop might think you are crazy. Those wheels are a whole lot better 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 Using 0000 is a legitimate method to recover heavier scratches. From there go to the firm polishing wheel. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 5 Author Share Posted August 5 So getting better with the polishing. It's the DEEEEP scratches I'm having trouble with. And I got one piece that always dented that I got better but not quite where I want it. Here are some progress photos. Certainly from 2 feet they look great. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 5 Author Share Posted August 5 The window surrounds I guess are chrome. Cause I burned through to looks like a brass layer. (Photo above) Thoughts? I chromed my 80C but didn't do these. Guess I will now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 5 Author Share Posted August 5 One reassembled. The other a slight hiccup... Making two side vents from 4. Used the best ones I had and didn't notice this. I will have to polish the other one so the headlight will fit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 Oops! Good that you caught it now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 10 Author Share Posted August 10 Didn't feel like polishing today (hot), but want to make progress... So painting details on chrome...in the AC... Been asking for progress photos on metal replacement... Maybe will get some. Had been unmotivated myself for quite some time...work related... But in a much better mental state so my motivation has been revived... That and less than a year until Charlotte 2025...lots to do and gonna be a trash at the end I can tell, so more that's ready to simply bolt on the better. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 10 Author Share Posted August 10 I like to use a Testors paint marker then an exacto to scrape off the excess after it dries. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted August 10 Share Posted August 10 It is amazing how much time these small details take - but they make a tremendous difference if not done. The grill really takes a lot of time 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted August 10 Share Posted August 10 In my experience, a quicker and easier way to remove the excess paint is to paint the recessed area, let it dry for a few minutes and then take a Goo Gone Painter's Wipe and wipe off the excess using light pressure. If you experiment with it, you will perfect exactly how long to wait before wiping and you will easily remove the paint from the raised surfaces without removing any of it from the recessed areas. I usually get the wipes at Lowes Home Improvement. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 10 Author Share Posted August 10 Just now, MCHinson said: In my experience, a quicker and easier way to remove the excess paint is to paint the recessed area, let it dry for a few minutes and then take a Goo Gone Painter's Wipe and wipe off the excess using light pressure. If you experiment with it, you will perfect exactly how long to wait before wiping and you will easily remove the paint from the raised surfaces without removing any of it from the recessed areas. I usually get the wipes at Lowes Home Improvement. I don't like that method personally... to each his own... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 A couple of my favorites when done correctlly with the translucent red paint. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 I do like the "wipe" method for these smaller items and the headlight rings. I'm going to start putting new plastic knobs on and making progress on those next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 Is the red lettering unique to the Roadmaster? Matt has the 'Century' lettering on my car painted gray. The red is definitely higher contrast. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 (edited) 1 hour ago, EmTee said: Is the red lettering unique to the Roadmaster? Matt has the 'Century' lettering on my car painted gray. The red is definitely higher contrast. I will have to find my documentation on that. It's in the original TT magazines somewhere, but I always do my 38s regardless of series (though I only have RMs) the translucent red with silver around so that the only chrome is the outline. Edited August 11 by 38Buick 80C (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 Painted the grill halves, both the flat and rear surfaces satin black and the black detail lines at the edge. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 Painted the ash tray doors and cleaned up and painted the ash trays themselves Unfortunately broke one repro plastic knobs. Will pick up another from Skip at Hershey.put the old one in for now just to keep everything together. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 11 Author Share Posted August 11 Correct stainless installed and emblem on. I used a Fusor double sided emblem tape. Same thing I used on the 80C a decade ago. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 14 Author Share Posted August 14 Some progress from the metal shop Trans tunnel cover Rocker edge that the door sits on 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootey Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 On 8/11/2024 at 12:08 PM, 38Buick 80C said: Correct stainless installed and emblem on. I used a Fusor double sided emblem tape. Same thing I used on the 80C a decade ago. How were the emblems originally affixed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 15 Author Share Posted August 15 1 hour ago, Shootey said: How were the emblems originally affixed? There were brass rivets. I had to grind them off to remove them to be restored. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 17 Author Share Posted August 17 Good news I found another set of ash tray knobs, so good to go on those. And I epoxied on the knobs to the rechromed window cranks too. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 17 Author Share Posted August 17 Next up... Making 10-32 studs for the radio bezel. Only 3 existing studs remain in the bezel. Thusly I have new stainless machine screws for to make new studs out of. I've marked each where it needs to be cut. I am going to use a Dremel and leave them in place to cut. I tightened them down to be marked and now am have loosened them way up for cutting. I want to be able to remove them to deburr them. I will use some loctite when I'm done putting them back in place. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 17 Author Share Posted August 17 After I cut and deburred I flipped the stuff so the cut side went into the bezel so the clean OEM side of the screw will be the side to accept the nut. A drop of loctite and tighten by hand. 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 18 Author Share Posted August 18 (edited) Not much going on today. Kinda went looking through my parts looking for stuff to work on. I had the ash trays for the rear seats rechromed. Today I took a set of doors off another set. These are plastic (there were two versions for 38 big series) so I polished them and painted the black stripes. Now to find the very small rivets or something to hold them in place in the newly chromed trays. Will be on the look at for something at Hershey. These cleaned up nicely. I will have one car with the brown doors and one (the 80C) with the fawn metal doors with light plastic "knobs". That will not doubt make a judge question which is right, 😂. Edited August 18 by 38Buick 80C (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted August 21 Share Posted August 21 You’re doing a beautiful job ! The attention to detail 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 23 Author Share Posted August 23 Got the air cleaner powder coated 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted August 31 Author Share Posted August 31 I'm on a hot streak... I had two cars stop working for no apparent reason. Took a bit but got BOTH running today. More to go on both but already a successful weekend. Took a moment to get the air cleaner for this car assembled. I used Dad's stash of NOS air cleaner elements. I have to add the decal but it looks nice, I'm happy. I hope to install the decal and install on the car before the weekend is out. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootey Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 How lucky you are to have a dad with a stash. I restored a 1938 Century coupe in the 1990s and your dad was a key player back then including in the 1937-38 Buick Club. Say hello to him for me and for Harry Logan. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 2 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said: Took a moment to get the air cleaner for this car assembled. Does the element need to be oiled periodically? I was fiddling with the one on my Century last year and sprayed the element with some K&N element oil I had on the shelf before I reassembled it. I don't know if it helped, but it didn't seem to hurt anything... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted September 1 Author Share Posted September 1 Forgot to post these update photos I got this week. This before: interior cowl area structure And progress 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 How is the wood? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38Buick 80C Posted September 1 Author Share Posted September 1 I have numerous light switches I've picked up cheap over the years. I grabbed a nicer one for a rebuild/clean up I pulled back the tabs and popped open the case. This what I found. I wonder if this switch worked or if the brass piece came off when I opened the case. I don't think it did. I tightened it so it stays on the block. And cleaned up things I did put a little bit of dielectric grease on. And back together. I found my chromed pieces for the switch at the dash. I hadn't noticed the little chink in the one, I will have to have another one chromed. Just need to replace the plastic knob and this is ready to go. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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