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Posted

I have had several mechanics and car restorations guys look at this and they can't tell me what it is. To me I would think it would have something to do with the oil, but certainly not an filter as I wouldn't think it would be on there sideways.

 

Oh by the way, I am referring to the larger flat black component located below the horn. As you can see, copper tubing runs from the oil pan thru it.

 

So...What is it???

 

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Posted (edited)

Pancake style bypass oil filter.  The tee fitting is on the oil pump directly below the distributor.  The oil goes from the pump through the filter and returns to the oil pan through the fitting at the bottom of the block.  The line from the left of the tee goes to the oil pressure gauge.

Edited by dictator27 (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

The bypass (or partial flow) is a step above the oil filter on my Light Six...that is...I don't have one :(.  I just change it more often.  You can see it has the same oil pump and oil gauge pipe setup. It is also a splash lube engine vs a fully pressurized oiling system that came on the 1925 Standard Six and subsequent engines (a huge improvement).

 

As a side note, I did adapt this K&N air filter setup that I use for driving around. It swaps out easily with the original air intake cross-over pipe if I want to show it.

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Edited by Stude Light (see edit history)
Posted
1 hour ago, dictator27 said:

Pancake style bypass oil filter.  The tee fitting is on the oil pump directly below the distributor.  The oil goes from the pump through the filter and returns to the oil pan through the fitting at the bottom of the block.  The line from the left of the tee goes to the oil pressure gauge.

 

I thought it might be the oil filter but I had never seen a side mount before. Looks like a booger to replace without getting oil everywhere. So 2 questions, Where is a good place to get a new pancake filter and does it make more sense to convert to a modern style canister like keninman has?

Posted

Pancake oil filters, to my knowledge, are not being reproduced.   If you can find one it will be an original one that is over 80 years old.   Anything that old will be dangerous to your engine to try and use.   The only alternative is to get one of the old style reproduction canister oil filters that have been machined to use a spin-on modern oil filter hidden inside the canister.   They look authentic and hid the modern spin-on oil filter. 

Posted
5 hours ago, automaschinewerks said:

check out the filter on the firewall of my 26, pics I just posted now.  its the rectangular box with the lines coming to it, between the horn and the small engine gas tank

 

I  couldn't bring up the engine pics

Posted
14 hours ago, keninman said:

Mine is using a canister. I was able to buy an NOS one for less thsn $40. 

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Where did you find your canister holder?

Posted

I'm thinking of going the route pod leaving this pancake in place and hiding a spin on underneath. Those of you that have done this, can you post some photos that show how you went about it?

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm with nzcarnerd. It only partially filters your oil anyway. Today's oils are so much superior than oils of the period and relatively cheap, plus you can recycle your oil vs dumping it on the dirt roads of yesterday so don't feel bad about changing it fairly often.

 

A number of aircraft manufacturers added filters to their piston engines in only the last 20 years and some are still without filters.  They just change oil more often.  Imagine a multi-hundred thousand dollar aircraft and no oil filter on the engine....

Posted

I am with Stude Light and Nzcarnerd. From what I understand the big problem is gasoline contamination not carbon. I would not get rid of that pancake filter. If worse comes to worse poke a hole through it. 

Change the oil every 1k miles or y months which ever comes first?

Posted

Sorry, engine oil is contaminated with combustion products, including carbon, which is why it goes black. There may be some fuel too, but if you run the car to fully warm and drive it for a while that should evaporate?

 

My reading is that partial flow filters are fairly effective. Engines last longer with cleaner oil. Thus engines last longer with regular oil and filter changes. Both by-pass and full flow filters are used on vehicles today. Each is useful in certain conditions. By-pass filters, for example, filter out finer particles than full flow.

 

So don't be a Luddite and toss that by-pass filter. Use it.

Posted

I wasn't suggesting to throw out the filter and housing design but if you can't find a replacement element you either run with the hardware intact and no filter element or modify your car to accept something newer that it didn't originally come with. I'm more of a purest and like to keep things they way they came. But, as you can see from above I drive with an air filter although I keep my original intake pipe on when not taking trips....it's an easy swap. Maybe a bit of a compromise I guess.

 

If you aren't so particular then sure, adding a filter is always better. If you are daily driving I would add it, if not, no filter isn't going to be a significant factor to wearing out the engine with frequent changes. To each his own.

 

If it were my car, I would research and find a solution for a pancake housing element filter. There is a solution out there. That's part of the fun of the hobby for me.....looking for and designing solutions to the challenges faced. Guess that is why I liked restoring my car as you can't order parts out of a book like many of the Model T owners have the option of.

 

 

Posted (edited)

The pancake oil filter, displayed in the original posting, was an option on Studebaker cars around 1929 and was used by some other car companies at the time.  One of those other companies was Pierce-Arrow.   However, it was an option, and was not standard equipment on Studebaker cars.   When you bought an new Studebaker in 1929 it did not come with either an air filter for the carburetor or an oil filter for the engine.  If the owner wanted an oil filter the dealer would have installed one of the pancake filters.   Or, the new car owner could have acquired an oil filter from any number of after marker suppliers.   The problem with the pancake oil filter is it is a one time use part.  The filter does not have a replacement element.  The entire filter is thrown away and an entirely new pancake filter must be installed.  Just like today's modern spin on oil filters you take it off and throw it away and install a new filter.   The pancake filter is the same one time use design.   I have attached some close up pictures of a pancake filter that illustrates that it is a sealed unit that cannot be opened without destroying the housing to replace the element inside.

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Edited by Mark Huston
Clarity (see edit history)
  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 9/21/2017 at 4:46 PM, Mark Huston said:

Pancake oil filters, to my knowledge, are not being reproduced.   If you can find one it will be an original one that is over 80 years old.   Anything that old will be dangerous to your engine to try and use.   The only alternative is to get one of the old style reproduction canister oil filters that have been machined to use a spin-on modern oil filter hidden inside the canister.   They look authentic and hid the modern spin-on oil filter. 

 

 

I saw in another post where you also were showing a picture, but it is no longer visible. I would like to see how your friend kept his pancake for looks and added a spin-on out of site.

 

Posted
7 minutes ago, kclark said:

 

 

I saw in another post where you also were showing a picture, but it is no longer visible. I would like to see how your friend kept his pancake for looks and added a spin-on out of site.

 

My friend no longer has the pancake oil filter attached to his engine.  He removed it and replaced it with old style reproduction canister filter that uses a modern spin on filter hidden inside the canister.   Here is the picture used in the original posting - prior to the pancake filter being replaced.   I don't have a picture of my friends 1929 GE Dictator with the updated style canister filter, however, I do have one with my engine and the same style canister filter.   I have included pictures of my canister filter prior to installation. 

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  • Thanks 1
Posted

Mark Huston, thank you for some very useful information. My car still does not have an air filter. It does have a cartridge oil filter and I replaced it with a NOS Fram. Kclark sent me a pic of one on Ebay that included the mount. If I was worried about filtering my oil I would go this route, perhaps not perfectly in keeping with the time period it is close. The hidden spin on I have seen on one of the posts before but I don't know where to get one. It is a very elegant idea though and could probably be replicated in a home shop with a bit of care. The Wix filter is tops, Napa/Wix is the only filter I use on our modern vehicles. 

 

That aside do you have more pictures of the Dictator engine. I am especially interested in that fan belt. Again I appreciate your input. 

Posted (edited)
On 9/24/2017 at 1:35 PM, Mark Huston said:

The pancake oil filter, displayed in the original posting, was an option on Studebaker cars around 1929 and was used by some other car companies at the time.  One of those other companies was Pierce-Arrow.   However, it was an option, and was not standard equipment on Studebaker cars. 

That I did not know. So would the dealer drill the block for the oil return port?

Considering the pancake filters are a sealed unit, I would agree that a 90 year old part is asking for trouble. You could always cut it apart and put a new element in the assembly (basically replicating one) but that does seem like too much work for a disposable item. So I guess the original issue is still out there. Run without filtering or add a filter from a later generation. I think there has been plenty said in the post to help you decide. It's nice to see all the options folks have come up with. Good luck.

Edited by Stude Light (see edit history)
Posted
1 hour ago, Stude Light said:

So would the dealer drill the block for the oil return port?

 

Yes, the block was set up at the factory for an oil filter, however, they left it as option for the new car owner to install if desired.  

  • 4 months later...

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