How to: 1956 Dynaflow Torque Converter Reassembly

[1956century]

Sharing some pics of how the 1956 converter goes back together.  Removal is the reverse of this process.

 

 

New seal installed and bellhousing bolted on.  Bottom left bolt in this picture needs to be thread sealed.  New o-ring behind the bellhousing was also installed.

 

Look for a crack near the bottom most hole (the one with the nut).  This is common with the aluminum bellhousing and will cause a leak.

 

 

Converter pump installed on reaction shaft. 

 

 

 

Stator installed.  Be careful - the thrust washer at the back of the stator must stay in place and the rollers and springs will want to fall out.  I lifted the back of the transmission so they bellhousing was tilted down.  This allowed me to slide the stator up and onto the shaft, and gravity kept everything in tact.  I also replaced the stator bushings that ride on the shaft (two in total).

 

 

Twin turbine assembly installed.  Thrust washer also visible.

 

 

Additional thrust washer (behind retaining washer), retaining washer, lock washer, and bolt installed.

 

 

Pump cover with new o-ring installed.  I used a little bracket screwed to one of the flywheel bolt holes to keep the torque converter from spinning when tightening.

 

Parts that I replaced:

• Bellhousing to transmission body o-ring
• Input shaft seal
• Stator bushings (2)
• Stator thrust washer
• Pump cover o-ring
• Band adjustment cap o-rings (performed adjustment)
• Dip stick tube to oil pan hose and clamps
• Torque ball lip seal
• Torque ball retainer and gaskets
• Transmission mount
• Transmission thrust pad

 

Although my kit came with a torque ball to torque tube gasket, my car didn't have one, so I didn't install it.

 

Hope this helps someone.

Edited November 16, 2016 by 1956century (see edit history)

[cords]

nice thanks

[ChuckMcChuckles]

Great information.  Definitely useable.  Thanks

[Beemon]

Thanks for the info! On top of my rear main leak, I've had ATF fluid accumulate at the bell housing inspection plate for some time, so this is in my near future.

[buick man]

Good to look over this post and observe some good hands-on work …. So you dropped the transmission and rebuilt it completely or only the front end just as you listed ?  What configuration did you use to support & secure the engine while removing and servicing the transmission ?

Edited November 16, 2016 by buick man (see edit history)

[1956century]

I did all front and rear seals and o-rings.  Also replaced some wear components in the torque converter.  There's a list at the end of my first post with everything I did.  It wasn't difficult, just took a while since I wanted to clean and paint.

 

I used two regular jacks to support the engine and transmission.  Used wood between the jack and the oil pans.  Goes in fine as long as you balance it and have a helping hand.  Once the transmission was out, I supported the engine with 2x4s cut to the correct height.

Edited November 17, 2016 by 1956century (see edit history)

[Leif Holmberg]

Really hope you have read in the 1956 Buick Product Service  Bulletines how to tighten the bolts before you put the Dynaflow back on the car? Just to prevent leaking.

Leif in Sweden.

[1956century]

@Leif Holmberg - here's what my manual said:

 

Quote

Install bell housing, using lockwashers on bolts and stud. Sparingly coat threads of lower right side bolt with Permatex No. 3 because the bolt hole opens into 1956 Buick Dynaflow transmission case. Tighten bolts and stud nut evenly to 35-40 f t. lbs. torque.

 

The service bulletin only makes mention of the potential crack in the lower hole, nothing bout installation procedure: http://www.hometownbuick.com/1956-buick-transmission-maintenance/

[JamesBulldogMiller55Buick]

Thanks for posting !!

This should be a 'sticky'

[Joseph P. Indusi]

A really great post, well written, with good photos and agree it should be a sticky.

Thanks for taking the time and effort for preparing this post and I am sure there are many others who feel this way.

Joe, BCA 33493

[1956century]

Forgot to mention I had to replace a section of brake line.  This is the line that connects to the brake hose going to the torque tube.  It broke on removal.

 

I spliced in a new line and replaced the hose as well.

 

[Guest Buickmatt]

I could use some help on this. I have a 60 Electra, that when removing the original torque converter it removed like a normal Chevy (a few turns and pull). We discovered it was destroyed internally. I bought a replacement that I assume has this bolt which fastens the converter to the trans. The problem is, my dynaflow doesn't have threads in the eccentric shaft. it looks like a grease zero. Please help!

[JohnD1956]

11 hours ago, Buickmatt said:

I could use some help on this. I have a 60 Electra, that when removing the original torque converter it removed like a normal Chevy (a few turns and pull). We discovered it was destroyed internally. I bought a replacement that I assume has this bolt which fastens the converter to the trans. The problem is, my dynaflow doesn't have threads in the eccentric shaft. it looks like a grease zero. Please help!

 

It may be of help if you could post pictures of what you are referring to.

[old-tank]

1956 Dynaflow Torque Converter Reassembly is the subject of this discussion.  Yours is 4 years newer and is probably completely different.  What does your shop manual show?  1960 dynaflow manual?