RivNut Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Has anyone tried this kit? I think that $11 would be well worth my time spent with a razor blade and a roll of tape.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BUICK-RALLY-WHEEL-PAINT-Mask-STENCIL-Kit-5-on-5-Full-Size-Wheels-/142120731947?hash=item21170e452b:g:ayIAAOSw8gVX3Xrf&vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Ed, You are retired. Time is on your side, save the money and take wife to McDonalds! The stencil kit would make it a little easier but I think it still takes some care and time to apply. Then you still need to mask beyond what the template kit covers to avoid overspray. Once you get the hang of taping off and using a small razor knife it goes pretty quick. By the time you are done with 5 you can do one in half the time vs the first........but likely you won't have to do another set for years. I'd like to see the paint template they used when these wheels were mass produced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbuickgs Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Ed, Try this , Don't tape anything ! Trying not to do a lot of overspray but paint the areas between the spokes ( yes it will look all black or silver depending on your color) . Using a rag with lacquer thinner and the end of your finger, wipe the chrome ribs and the outer edge of the slotted area turning the rag frequently. I have done this on many wheels and it saves time. I spray one light coat then a 2nd coat when the 1st is tacky. Start to wipe within 30 second and the paint comes off very easy. Try it on an old wheel, I think it works better then tape ! Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 13 minutes ago, billbuickgs said: Ed, Try this , Don't tape anything ! Trying not to do a lot of overspray but paint the areas between the spokes ( yes it will look all black or silver depending on your color) . Using a rag with lacquer thinner and the end of your finger, wipe the chrome ribs and the outer edge of the slotted area turning the rag frequently. I have done this on many wheels and it saves time. I spray one light coat then a 2nd coat when the 1st is tacky. Start to wipe within 30 second and the paint comes off very easy. Try it on an old wheel, I think it works better then tape ! Bill You mean like I did on all of the ribbed aluminum goodies for my engine? I hadn't thought of that for chrome, only polished aluminum. That will be my first shot, Jason comes in 2nd, and the stencil kit finishes a distant third. Thanks to everyone for your help / advice. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petelempert Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 I did mine with sort of a combination of tape and thinner. Tape it up as best you can. Hit it with the paint. While the paint is still wet, rip off the tape. Then use the thinner. I actually took a rag, wrapped it around the tip of a slot screwdriver, dipped the end in the thinner and used the fine point to catch any excess. IMHO, the fine point dipped in thinner cuts the paint but makes for a cleaner finish. Forget the stencil kit. PRL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWB Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 15 minutes ago, petelempert said: I did mine with sort of a combination of tape and thinner. Tape it up as best you can. Hit it with the paint. While the paint is still wet, rip off the tape. Then use the thinner. I actually took a rag, wrapped it around the tip of a slot screwdriver, dipped the end in the thinner and used the fine point to catch any excess. IMHO, the fine point dipped in thinner cuts the paint but makes for a cleaner finish. Forget the stencil kit. PRL - This is what I did on my boat tail 20+ years ago. Worked perfect. Don't forget hi-temp paint pewee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 Okay, a couple of other questions. Did you prime over the original paint where there were chips to create a smooth finish? What did you do to prepare any unpainted chrome so it would hold paint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWB Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 (edited) Well, I used a wooden (sharp) scraper and knocked down a small bit of peel. The original paint was already super thin. I had a '73 with very minimal pitting. But the original paint was faded from the Cali. Sun. Alcohol scrub. No primer used. It seems the hi-temp paints are very superior in adhesion. Direct spray. It was a success for me. Stuck very well. I hope you have the same luck. Also: as you know they sell a hi-temp primer. I don't think it would make a difference in this case. Edited October 28, 2016 by PWB Extra (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmiddy Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 (edited) Thank you all for these very useful information, my plan was to remake my wheels this winter... so with the advise of you guys, this should be a walkover ;-) Is there a special hi-temp paint you would highly recommend? Edited October 28, 2016 by Schmiddy (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadShark Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 I did this tailgate by outlining the letters with 1/8" masking tape and then masking to that. It took a while... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIVNIK Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Greetings Ed & everyone, I have painted three sets of wheels over the years. The first two were done by hand masking the conventional way. With the last set I decided to use the stencils. I paid $9 for them on Ebay. Unfortunately they sent me stencils made for 14" wheels instead of the15" I specified. They are apparently identical except for the length of the 5 ribs that radiate out from the hub, so I was able to cut them & graft in small pieces of tape. Also the stencils only cover the ribs & the intricate curves at either end. This requires you to mask the easier curves between them. Aside from those complications I was pleased with the product. However, all it did was save time, something which I already have too much of. I discovered that I actually enjoy the zen like quality of intricate masking, having done several clamshells, grilles, & rocker panels. But I like to encourage anyone who is making products for old car restoration, so I'm happy I gave them a try. There were two complete sets of stencils included, so if you had 8 wheels to paint or could share them w a buddy I would recommend them. Other than that, if you have the average human complement of patience & dexterity, you're probably good on your own. Peace & Love Rivnik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petelempert Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 I didn't prime my wheels either. Scuffed them a bit with steel wool, wiped with a de-greaser, taped and straight to paint. Another cool trick is to use stick on pinstripe tape (the stuff you get at Reilly or Auto Zone) for the first detail layer of tape, then overlay with thinker masking tape. The stick on stripe is very flexible, takes turns well and leaves a crisp edge. Also, I didn't use a high heat paint though its a good idea. Seems like half of my car is painted with Restoleum satin black. PRL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWB Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 5 hours ago, Schmiddy said: Thank you all for these very useful information, my plan was to remake my wheels this winter... so with the advise of you guys, this should be a walkover ;-) Is there a special hi-temp paint you would highly recommend? Rust-Oleum engine paint is best in my experience. Takes one day to cure. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 28, 2016 Author Share Posted October 28, 2016 (edited) The more I read about engine paints the more I've come to realize that a lot of them are starting to add ceramics to the paint. Can anyone explain the benefits of ceramic engine paint? How would that help on a wheel? Besides that, the wheels that I want to refinish are for a '65 and those are not black. Edited October 28, 2016 by RivNut (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIVNIK Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Rustoleum is of course the old gold standard for rattle can paint, but I've had trouble with the satin black twice recently, once on an actual Riv wheel. The paint orange-peeled instantly as if it were sprayed over lacquer, which is what I first suspected. After thoroughly stripping and trying again, I realized the problem was with the paint. It also took forever to dry. I switched to Krylon (my usual paint of choice) and got superior results. BTW, I believe ceramic is added to paint for heat resistance & durability. Hence its use in engine & brake caliper paint. And Ed, I am normally a stickler for originality, but I've tried both "colors" and I really think my '65 looks better with the wheel inserts painted satin black. Just an opinion Drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmiddy Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 3 hours ago, PWB said: Rust-Oleum engine paint is best in my experience. Takes one day to cure. OK, good to know, thank you Paul! I've to check out what similar paints we have here in Switzerland. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petelempert Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 I generally love Rust-Oleum Satin Black but have noticed the following: First, the batches can sometimes vary...sometimes a little more gloss than I'd prefer. Second, time to flash coat is crucial...either re-coat it within minutes or wait several days...it's really sensitive to refresh and can blister badly. Third, it doesn't like cold temperatures. PRL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWB Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 I've found humidity level has a direct correlation to luster/sheen. It can make one can of paint give different results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 (edited) Krylon SUPPERMAXX all-in-one 'Satin Black' #8974 - not 'Flat', and certainly not 'Gloss' - bonds to just about anything, dries reasonably fast, cleans up with laquer thinners, and is very easy to use ! I've tried them all over the years, and this is my personal preference for consistency, ease of use, and achieving best results ! Edited October 29, 2016 by 68RIVGS (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 29, 2016 Author Share Posted October 29, 2016 Great info on the paints to choose from for black. What color is the closest match for the '65 wheels with the grey webbing? Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWB Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 3 hours ago, 68RIVGS said: Krylon SUPPERMAXX all-in-one 'Satin Black' #8974 - not 'Flat', and certainly not 'Gloss' - bonds to just about anything, dries reasonably fast, cleans up with laquer thinners, and is very easy to use ! I've tried them all over the years, and this is my personal preference for consistency, ease of use, and achieving best results ! DITTO! Supermaxx is the best recent thing to happen to car restoration. I wish they'd make hi-temp version. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 48 minutes ago, PWB said: DITTO! Supermaxx is the best recent thing to happen to car restoration. I wish they'd make hi-temp version. . . . a little off topic but, For hi-temp applicationsI've used Dupli-Color DE1653 Red engine enamel with good results. It's a very close match to the original Buick 430 engine colour too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWB Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, 68RIVGS said: . . . a little off topic but, For hi-temp applicationsI've used Dupli-Color DE1653 Red engine enamel with good results. It's a very close match to the original Buick 430 engine colour too. I found Rust-Oleum Engine Paint RED is a dead ringer match. After removing my valve cover decal I could see un-faded original paint a perfect match. - And I have to get color blindness checked every year for my employment. Far cry from CARS LLC Buick red paint. Even their own photo on their website shows pink. Several other cries about that paint turning pink. Strange Edited October 29, 2016 by PWB (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1965 Buick Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 12 hours ago, RivNut said: Great info on the paints to choose from for black. What color is the closest match for the '65 wheels with the grey webbing? Ed Try the Eastwood Dark Metallic Grey (Charcoal) item #10003Z. I've tried it on two sets of '65 wheels and it's a close match. Tony ROA #2198 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 30, 2016 Author Share Posted October 30, 2016 14 hours ago, 1965 Buick said: Try the Eastwood Dark Metallic Grey (Charcoal) item #10003Z. I've tried it on two sets of '65 wheels and it's a close match. Tony ROA #2198 Thanks, I'll give it a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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