AC REPAIRS

[ptt]

I am about to start repairing the AC on both of my 1990 Reattas.  They have both been converted to R134a by PO.  My problem is the convertible has a broken metal manifold pipe between the compressor and the accumulator and I'm have trouble finding the correct gaskets/O-rings startingwitht the manifold at the compressor.   I believe if I had part #s I could find them locally.  Ive already found a replacement manifold at the local pick-n-pull.  Any help appreciated.  Thanks.  -PT

[redreattaruss]

Rock Auto sells a kit of green O rings for your Reatta AC.  Just look up Buick, 1990, Reatta, Heating, AC, O Rings.  Cost under $10 and has much more than you need.  Also found Harbor Freight has a plastic box with dividers containing many sizes of the green AC O rings. 

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1990,reatta,3.8l+231cid+v6,1019911,heat+&+air+conditioning,a/c+system+o-rings%2C+seals%2C+&+gasket+kits,13290?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+%2F

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/205-piece-hnbr-o-ring-kit-67644.html

 

Enjoy.  Reatta AC servicing is lots of fun. 

[padgett]

OTOH this is an area where it is "just a Buick" and it is a lot easier to work on than a W body. My only concern was that back in the day compressors - mostly big A6s - lasted for decades. Modern ones do not seem to last very long.

[harry yarnell]

I think  a couple reasons compressors don't last like the old A6 jobs is that there's no oil sump in the HR6 series, and the piston rings are made out of Teflon that tend to break easily.

[redreattaruss]

5 hours ago, harry yarnell said:

I think  a couple reasons compressors don't last like the old A6 jobs is that there's no oil sump in the HR6 series, and the piston rings are made out of Teflon that tend to break easily.

 

Yep, the Reatta, like all the FWD cars, has the compressor way down under and is an absolute PIA to RR.  The older cars and the recent trucks and SUV's with the non-sloping hood have the compressor right on top and easy to get to.

 

The '65 Riviera has the old design compressor with the sump,  Still works great.  See enclosed picture.

[harry yarnell]

As a sidebar, the newer (2000 &up),compressors are scroll compressors. No pistons!

[handmedownreatta]

37 minutes ago, redreattaruss said:

 

Yep, the Reatta, like all the FWD cars, has the compressor way down under and is an absolute PIA to RR.  The older cars and the recent trucks and SUV's with the non-sloping hood have the compressor right on top and easy to get to.

 

The '65 Riviera has the old design compressor with the sump,  Still works great.  See enclosed picture.

now theres a riv id like to have.

[Barney Eaton]

I just finished compressor, dryer, and condenser on my 1991 and the biggest problem I had was with the "0" rings.

The dryer came with 4 the correct size.

The compressor came with a selection of seals that go between the compressor and the manifold block.  The instructions with the AC Delco compressor were sorry and with trial and error I found the correct seals.

Were I had problems was at the orface connection and where the lines attach to the condenser.   I purchased two different "green" sets the smaller set at least told me what was supposed to be in the package, the larger all inclusive pack was an "easter egg" hunt, the first choice I put on the condenser ripped one "0" ring during installation so I chose a different one.

The good news is it is back together charged and "sniffed" everything is good.

[padgett]

One of my "always wanted" was a 65 Riv GS with dual quads.

[handmedownreatta]

On 4/27/2016 at 8:47 PM, Barney Eaton said:

I just finished compressor, dryer, and condenser on my 1991 and the biggest problem I had was with the "0" rings.

The dryer came with 4 the correct size.

The compressor came with a selection of seals that go between the compressor and the manifold block.  The instructions with the AC Delco compressor were sorry and with trial and error I found the correct seals.

Were I had problems was at the orface connection and where the lines attach to the condenser.   I purchased two different "green" sets the smaller set at least told me what was supposed to be in the package, the larger all inclusive pack was an "easter egg" hunt, the first choice I put on the condenser ripped one "0" ring during installation so I chose a different one.

The good news is it is back together charged and "sniffed" everything is good.

the oring problem is why i haven't changed my compressor.it worked other than a bad clutch.

[Ronnie]

On 4/27/2016 at 8:47 PM, Barney Eaton said:

I purchased two different "green" sets the smaller set at least told me what was supposed to be in the package, the larger all inclusive pack was an "easter egg" hunt, the first choice I put on the condenser ripped one "0" ring during installation so I chose a different one.

The good news is it is back together charged and "sniffed" everything is good.

 

Once you found the correct o-ring, did you take the time to measure it? If so would you please post the dimensions here. It would really be helpful to others who have to go through the same ordeal.

[Barney Eaton]

Ronnie...I should have, and might be able to back into it and figure out the size......but measuring "O" rings is like measuring jello.....it keeps moving.

 

[2seater]

Maybe a bit of a tangent but related to the subject: Has anyone rebuilt the original compressor themselves and if so, what was the result?

[Ronnie]

26 minutes ago, Barney Eaton said:

Ronnie...I should have, and might be able to back into it and figure out the size......but measuring "O" rings is like measuring jello.....it keeps moving.

 

 

I've found that using dial calipers is the easiest way to measure soft rubber o-rings without squeezing them.

[Barney Eaton]

Here are my findings on the "0" rings for my 1991 (other years are probably the same)

The attached photo is the back side of the small kit I purchased, got it at O'Riley's for about $5 A/C Pro #ORNG-1

I used the 8.8mm x 1.9MM on the orifice, and condenser lines (6 total needed)  the 8.8MM is an inside diameter measurement and the 1.9MM id the thickness of the O ring.

For reference I had a couple of good looking originals that I measured....using drills, they were loose on a .375 (3/8) drill (9.525MM) and tight on a .390 (25/64) drill (9.906MM)

My first thought was to use the 10.8MM O ring but that did not work.  The O ring needs to fit snug on the diameter of the groove, this will stretch the O ring some and reduce the thickness.

 

* The dryer came with O rings... the measurement of the old ones are....about.658-.670 inside diameter (17MM) and the thickness is .068 (1.73MM)

with the knowledge gained from the smaller O ring, if I had to use some from this kit, I would try the 15mm x 1.8mm but as you can see on the photo there are only 3 in the kit and you need 4.

The second kit was from a company called Omega in the Dallas area (I pitched the info) but this was a much larger kit and cost around $10 got that at AutoZone.  There was no list of the contents and

I called and they could not tell me the sizes in the kit.....they did later send an email that listed the content by their part number but only 4 of the part number had dimensions (this kit had 18 different part numbers)

I hope Ronnie can put this on his web site and with the input of others, maybe we can piece together the O rings needed

[Ronnie]

Thanks Barney. I intend to post your information on my website soon.