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Babbitting


ricosan

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Hey Guys,

 

I am in need of advice.

 

Back in September my mechanic (Neal) and I removed the engine from my Marmon and tore it down.  Neal allows me took work along side him as a helper.

 

Since I was hoping to be driving my car by the end of the holidays I immediately had the cylinders bored and the head shaved and the block decked.  We replaced the valve guides and ground the valves.  Egge made us eight new pistons. I had the clutch rebuilt and located an NOS timing chain.

 

On the first of November Neal shipped the block with crankshaft and rods up to Illinois for the re- babbitting.  

 

It's still not done.  They always  have an excuse why they have not gotten to it.  Neal has dealt with this company for many years yet he seems reluctant  to put any pressure on them.

 

Is this time frame normal or should I put more pressure on Neal to motivate the babbittiers?  How do I get my engine back?

 

Any advice welcome.

 

ricosan

 

 

 

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Every Babbitt job is not the same from model to model. Doing a Ford is much different than doing a Marmon. Some engines can get very complicated. I would ask them if they have ever done a Marmon engine before and if they say yes ask who's. A friend ran into the same situation with a shop last year in Orillia. They had done many T & A but were way over their heads with a 1930 Cadillac engine. After five months he demanded his engine back and seeing the horrendous attempt they made of the job he is very glad he did. The next issue he had was getting a shop to redo someone else's mess. He had Mike Butters redo the work then stand in line behind I believe Longfields Simplex engine that will be at Pebble Beach this year.

Find a shop that knows what they are doing in all types of Babbitt work. If the tinning is bad for example and a rod goes where will you get another engine from. I am not saying you have the same issues but be aware.

Edited by Joe in Canada (see edit history)
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I'm worried about their motivation.

Back in the early '90s, I was a partner in a machine shop that did babbitting. Fords were relatively easy since we had all the molds, jigs, etc., almost like a production line.  With other engines the complexity (and time involved) increased exponentially. If it is a shop your mechanic has trust in from past work you may best stick with them.  If the distances involved are not prohibitive, a personal visit to the shop might be productive.  Motivation levels can sometimes be adjusted by the application of money.

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It's not hard to hire a really big, rough looking guy that can pick up that block and walk out the door with it. A couple hundred bucks and one visit should be inspirational. Just be nice and ask "What HAVE you done during the last five months?" You don't have to explain "Jack". They'll catch on quick.

 

A couple things kind of make me smile. Quite often I write that the most entertaining topics include the words "my mechanic". And I remember the helper/customer from 20 years ago when I was "my mechanic". He needed the door gaskets and hood rubber replaced on a '41 Cadillac Model 62 sedan. He thought I wanted a lot of money for a simple job. I told him I would deduct something like $20 per hour for the time he worked. He got the right hand doors; I took the left. About 45 minutes after starting he was absolutely soaked with sweat and breathing like a steam engine. He asked if I would be kind enough to give him a ride home. He was very happy the the car without rattles and wind noise.

 

A year or so ago, another customer who was quite vocal about my "high prices" called me. He had left his car with someone less expensive and asked me what recourse he had if a mechanic left his car outside with the windows open for five years.. I chose not to get involved in that one.

 

Always demand a minimum of an itemized monthly invoice if it is a long term job. In 2012 my nephew did a big job that included multiple tasks on one of my cars. I paid him weekly on T&M invoices to teach him the process. I think it worked out well for both of us.

 

Oh, and the big guy, the uglier the better. Just avoid ones with gray hair and pony tails or older guys with shaved heads. They tend to look like TV caricatures. Big, mean, and about 30 does a good job.

Bernie

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Thanks for the heads up Bernie.

 

captndan I'm not a mechanic but I've read through the lively discussions we've had here on this Forum.  I came away with the feeling that either inserts or babbits should work well with neither proving to the the absolute winner.  Neal suggested this company to pour the babbits so I wasn't going to argue him since he had much more experience than me.  Babbits just seem a little safer. I would have a hard time replacing this engine.  

 

ricosan

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