Guest jg_105 Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Just picked this up out of the Barn!sitting for 14 yearsNeeds a bit of work, but hopefully we will get it up and driving for summer! I have never owned anything like this before so I'm sure I'll have questions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jg_105 Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Sorry about the pictures --- Can't figure out how to rotate them----funny they are correct on my computer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 You may want to check out this site: http://www.3638buickclub.org/ If you have any questions about the 36-38 Buick Club, let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 (edited) Matt : Thanks, I was about to make the same suggestion. Just reviewed the updated web site and it looks great! Nice to finally see my car in the photo gallery! Edited March 1, 2016 by dibarlaw (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37buick Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Nice car !!! Whats the reason of not having a Banjo wheel ? Just outta curiosity .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5219 Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 "Banjo" wheels were optional. This car has the standard wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37buick Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Very good 5219 . tx for the info . "you only learn with the Best " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Some of the early 37s had a holdover design from 1936. Also the 1936 wheels held up better than the new plastic as we who have these cars well know. May have been replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37buick Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 I'm finishing up fabricating myself some Horn button Bezel for the 37s . If some one needs , keep in touch, It came up real nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Phillips Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 McLaughlin-Buick. Strange color combination. Is it a Century or a Special? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jg_105 Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 Its a Special - Dont know if its original or not - But in the sun it looks sharp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jg_105 Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 I'm finishing up fabricating myself some Horn button Bezel for the 37s . If some one needs , keep in touch, It came up real nice.Any pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jg_105 Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 I cant seem to Find any specs online for fluids I am waiting for the repair manual to come in, But specifically Brake fluid, Rear End oil, and Gear Box. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37buick Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 After going craaaazy trying to decide between one and the other , I came up to this conclusion : NAPAS Stalube brand hypoid gear oil SAE 85 w 90 for both gear box and differential . That's the only GL4 oil I could find . If anyone disagrees with that I'm happy to talk about it ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAS VEGAS DAVE Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 I get my oil from MILLERS OILS and I use CLASSIC GREEN GEAR OIL 140 in the rear axle and CLASSIC GREEN GEAR OIL 90 in the transmission. Both are mineral oils and are GL1 which is what is called for. They will not hurt brass. I think I might have got them on AMAZON but I'm not positive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37buick Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 WOW Dave ! I m sure that's very "not" popular here in google for new jersey ! lol but agreed on it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAS VEGAS DAVE Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 I don't get why it wouldn't be popular in NJ on Google, enlighten me, I know its a joke but its going over my head. In any case I hope it helped you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37buick Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Yes Dave , its a joke ! but I just couldn't get Millers that easy and I never heard about it , ( but really I'm not familiar with oil ) and also I never bother looking for GL1 - I was just looking for GL4 . Maybe that's why millers never showed up , that's why I decided to go with the stalube . Whats your opinion on that? I'm sure it will help others to decide . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAS VEGAS DAVE Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 If you go to AMAZON or Google and put Millers Oils in the search box it comes right up on my Mac. I think Stalube is good but GL1 is the oil you want if possible as it doesn't hurt the brass parts. I use Millers Oils for vintage motorcycles and autos but there are many choices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37buick Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 The GL 4 is safe on brass as well correct ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jg_105 Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Pulled the Wheels off today, Gonna need some wheel Cylds, and Probably a Master Cyld. Any thoughts on rebuilding current or replacing? any suggestions on where to rebuildor Find replacement parts? Im in Niagara Falls Canada, so preference would be in this area Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1939_Buick Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Cylinders are on ebay from time to time. Even try your local NAPA or similar car parts store For 37-38 parts try Dave T. Hard to contact so keep trying http://forums.aaca.org/topic/206688-dave-tachney/ Have a look at the links in post 5 http://forums.aaca.org/topic/207201-39-buick-team-membership/ A lot of good information in the old Torque tube magazine http://www.1937and1938buicks.com/The-Torque-Tube/The-Torque-Tube.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37buick Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 Cars inc had the front cylinders and Kanter had the rear . about 38 bucks a piece . Does anybody know the part number if i wannatry NAPA ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobj49f2 Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 You get them at NAPA or other stores. I got mine I think at NAPA. They are actually for I think a mid '50s Chevy truck. I think they were less than $20 each. I found the parts numbers in the old issues of the Toeque Tube:http://www.1937and1938buicks.comSearch the index and you'll find a lot of information. The author has numerous articles about using easier to find parts for modern cars that work on our old Buicks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1939_Buick Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 (edited) Some info in Volume II Issue 1 (March 20, 1983), but I remember reading a better list in one of the other Torque tubes magazines Edit: this is itVolume XIX Issue 5 (May-June 2001)NAPA 7536 & 7537 or 6092 I have put the "Index to 1937 - 1938 Buick Articles By Author" into a excel xls file (search-able) Edited March 7, 2016 by 1939_Buick (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37buick Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 TX . I'm going to check on my local napa ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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