Made In Michigan Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Does my 1937 218 motor need a water distribution tube? When I stripped down my motor two weeks ago, I found that it did not have one and was wondering if it is supposed to. Did it come from the factory with one in it? Or is a distribution tube a aftermarket thing? Thanks, Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 (edited) Yes, it came from the factory with one. Maybe the front part of yours has rusted away. Edited January 19, 2016 by Reg Evans (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 The water distribution tube provides a vital function in cooling your engine. It directs cooling water directly form the water pump to the upper block and valve area. Generally it is removed for inspection when an engine is overhauled, and replaced as required. However, in my experience, many production rebuilders do not perform this repair because the tube is rusted in place and difficult to remove. Failure to replace a rusted out water distribution tube will certainly lead to hot spots in the block and future problems. Replacement water distribution tubes are readily available from many NOS suppliers, manufactured in either steel or brass. Be sure you order a tube for a your engine block. Two versions are used, one for 23” and the other for 25” blocks. Access the tube by removing your water pump. If you are doing a rebuild, access is straightforward. If you are trying to do this in the car you will need to drain the coolant, remove the radiator, fan and water pump. Looking at the block face, it is the "D" shaped opening on the left, almost in line with the valves. Using a hook formed from 1/2 inch steel rod, insert the hook and catch one of the slots cut into the upper edge of the tube. This is not an easy repair to do with the engine block in the car. If you are really lucky, a sharp pull should break it loose and the tube will slide out. I you are like the most of us, it won come out. Next step is to liberally apply a lubricant like Liquid Wrench or motor oil along the edges of the tube. I flip the engine block upright, and this allows the lubricant to run down the sides of the rusted tube. Let it soak for a while and give the hook another try. If you are having trouble getting the hook to stay set in the tube hole, try squeezing the edges of the tube together with a pair of vise grips. You can generally collapse the tube sides inward 2 3 inches and this provides a firm grip for the vice grips. A small slide hammer can be hooked on to the vise grips and a couple swings on the slide hammer pops the tube out. Still no go? Take a piece of 1/2 wide flat bar stock and gently drive it into the block between the thin straight side of the tube wall and the block. Again, use plenty of lubricant like Liquid Wrench or motor oil. You are trying to break loose the rusted tube wall from the block. Usually the tube collapses inward a bit, making it easier to remove. Drive the bar stock in 6-8 inches, then try the vice grips and slide hammer. If this doesn’t work, try driving the bar stock in a little deeper until you can finally remove the old tube. I have used this technique on four different blocks with success. If it is not moving, be patient and let the oil soak overnight. Give it a chance to loosen up the rust bond between the tube wall and block. Another trick is to remove the manifold and manifold studs. Penetrating oil can be applied through the holes directly onto the sides of the rusty distribution tube for the entire length of the tube. If you are really unlucky, the tube will break and only a section will come out. I have not had this happen, but have seen it mentioned in the service manual. Slightly sharpen the edge of the bar stock so you can catch and lift the remaining tube pieces away from the block side and again lubricate well. I think you will need a stronger hook to catch the remaining tube pieces. In my experience it was very easy to pull the hook out of the 1/4 inch rod stock when trying to pull the tube. A heat formed hook would be the way to go. If you are doing a rebuild, cleanup is easy. When they hot tank the block it will remove the lubricant from the water jacket. It the block is in the car, rinse well with a soap solution, then flush the water jacket until the water runs clear. Installation of the new distribution tube is straightforward. Inspect the block to make sure the water jacket is clean. If not flush and clean. The new water distribution tube is slid into the opening and then the front D shaped edge gently peened over to hold it in place. Reinstall the components you removed and refill with appropriate coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpcdfan Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 I have new water distribution tubes available in both sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 I have new water distribution tubes available in both sizes.Cost and info to purchase.ThanksDave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Made In Michigan Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 Sure enough, the water tube is rotted away and half of what's left is in the block! Another thing I noticed is there was no thermostat . Is the thermostat a common size? Or is this most likely going to be hard to find? I've never seen one on Ebay or anywhere else. I'm going to have a bitch of a time getting that tube out! Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Made In Michigan Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 which way do the holes in the tube face? Up or down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Sure enough, the water tube is rotted away and half of what's left is in the block! Another thing I noticed is there was no thermostat . Is the thermostat a common size? Or is this most likely going to be hard to find? I've never seen one on Ebay or anywhere else. I'm going to have a bitch of a time getting that tube out! FrankThermostats should be available at your local auto supply store. The newer replacement thermostats for the bypass style application look different from the original but should work fine. For 160° I think you are looking at something like http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Thermostat-Regular/_/R-THM55_0183567381 There should also be a 180° version. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 which way do the holes in the tube face? Up or down?My car was built before they started using the water distribution tube, but I believe the holes in the tube face up as they are intended to direct coolant flow to the underside of the valve seat areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpcdfan Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 Cost and info to purchase.ThanksDaveHi Dave,$50 plus shipping from Bloomington, CA. Regards, Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hchris Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 My car was built before they started using the water distribution tube, but I believe the holes in the tube face up as they are intended to direct coolant flow to the underside of the valve seat areas. Correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 (edited) I thought the distribution tubes were "D" shaped and could only go in one way with the taper toward the top. Edited January 25, 2016 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 JohnDidn't you look at my post #3? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 JohnDidn't you look at my post #3?Yes. I was replying to "Made In Michigan's" post #7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Just making sure that you're on your toes! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritz L Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 On 1/22/2016 at 8:45 AM, dpcdfan said: I have new water distribution tubes available in both sizes. I just joined this forum, I haven’t even introduce myself yet in the new members section, But I just bought my son a 1953 Dodge pilot house pick up and I was wondering if these water distribution tubes are still available? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 53 minutes ago, Fritz L said: I just joined this forum, I haven’t even introduce myself yet in the new members section, But I just bought my son a 1953 Dodge pilot house pick up and I was wondering if these water distribution tubes are still available? Do you have the 23 in or 25 in engine? I have the 23in tubes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpcdfan Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 11 hours ago, Fritz L said: I just joined this forum, I haven’t even introduce myself yet in the new members section, But I just bought my son a 1953 Dodge pilot house pick up and I was wondering if these water distribution tubes are still available? I have both the 23" and 25" water distribution tubes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritz L Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 22 hours ago, countrytravler said: Do you have the 23 in or 25 in engine? I have the 23in tubes. I believe I have the 23 inch I pulled off the water pump today and the thermostat and everything with plugged with scale, so I am sure that injecting tube is probably clogged as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 2 hours ago, Fritz L said: I believe I have the 23 inch I pulled off the water pump today and the thermostat and everything with plugged with scale, so I am sure that injecting tube is probably clogged as well Given how much stuff you are seeing at the top of the head/block there is like to be much more lower in the block. You may want to consider pulling the freeze/core/welch/expansion plugs along the side of the engine and then flush the block while using a stiff wire probing to remove the sediment and sludge that usually accumulates in there over the decades. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Dan Herrera Posted July 20, 2021 Share Posted July 20, 2021 Anyone tried evaporust in the water distribution tube area ? I am having a heck of a time trying to get the tube out of my 1947 1 1/2 ton dodge truck .any suggestions would help. I have tried WD 40 and a come along with a hook. And still no movement.next will be a slide hammer.help ! Who has other remedies ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted July 20, 2021 Share Posted July 20, 2021 Slide hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgedude37 Posted February 25, 2022 Share Posted February 25, 2022 Persistence & special tools, & success. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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