Installing hood lace along body cowl with split rivets

[Stude Light]

Does anyone have advice on the best way to install the hood lace on the body cowl side of the hood on my Studebaker Light Six.  It was originally installed with split rivets but the access to spread those rivets form behind the dash is terrible.  I have used a wide chisel or punch in other areas of the car but have had access straight-on to the rivet.  In this case the access is only from the side of the rivet and it is very difficult to get it to be a tight fit.  Any ideas, advice, special tools or processes would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Scott

[JACK M]

They make some pretty good adhesives these days.

[unimogjohn]

This is what I used.  you can also fill in the slot if you want a totally flat look.  I used JB Weld for that.   Much better looking than pop rivets.

 

 http://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Binding-Post-WP73996/_/N-8jr?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/5MA53_AS01?$smthumb$

Edited November 11, 2015 by unimogjohn (see edit history)

[jpage]

My Model A ford had split rivets. I just spread them a little with a screwdriver and then pressed them flat with channelocks. If that doesn't work , try a small c-clamp.

[Curti]

They make some pretty good adhesives these days.

I use 3M weatherstrip adhesive, then put the rivets in for looks.  OR  you can use #6 no slot machine screws. Ditch the split rivets.

[PlymouthPE]

Another possible option is a drive screw typically used to fasten nameplates to generators/starters etc.

See link page 41 http://restorationstuff.com/pdf/RestorationSupplyCompany.pdf

[Stude Light]

Thanks to all for the ideas.

Scott

[Rusty_OToole]

There is an aluminum rivet called an Olympic rivet, used to fix airplanes where there is no room to buck from behind. It is a solid rivet not a pop rivet and you can fit them without access to the back. They are available in various sizes. Also used on Airstream trailers.

[Friartuck]

You mention the problem of getting access to the inside area. Could you make a long tool with a point and curls that could be used to seat the split rivet ends? Use in conjunction with someone holding a heavy hammer or body dolly on the domed side of the rivet (welt) (like a bucking bar) and seat the split rivet with this tool from the inside. The curled edges would spread the ends against the inside. Just a simple suggestion.

[studerex]

I bought these clamps and made bolts with proper ends to spread rivets and flatten like original.   http://www.ebay.com/itm/DE-STA-CO-453-C-Clamp-/201467157015?hash=item2ee860da17:g:Ib8AAOSwLzdWR4ej    or search knu vice or destaco.

Edited November 17, 2015 by studerex (see edit history)

[Stude Light]

I appreciate all the comments and ideas.  The issue I have is shown in the sketch below which details the ease of access to the head of the rivet but shows the limited access of the split end. You can only access the split end from the side of the rivet which requires your body to be under the dash/cowl area.

 

While the adhesives ideas would work, I got to thinking about how the workers in the Studebaker plant were able to build a car using just split rivets….so started the challenge.  What process did they use and why can’t I use something similar that will result in an authentic outcome?

 

Well, how do you drive a regular rivet? Use a rivet gun!  I grabbed my air chisel, went to Harbor Freight and bought a cheap chisel insert ($5), cut the tip off flat, then ground a slight hollow to match the crown of a split rivet head and polished that face. I turned the air pressure down to 30psi and adjusted the gun control to the lowest setting (least impacts). I was able to reach under and spread the rivets slightly with a screw driver.  Thinking about Friartuck’s idea on a tool, I decided for simple.  I started bucking the spread rivet with a round bar with a few hits from the air chisel and finished it off with a piece of heavy flat stock and a few more impacts which bent the ears around.  Worked perfectly.

 

I’ll have to admit that I was a bit apprehensive about my 21 year old son using a pneumatic impact device on a freshly painted body while I bucked so I tested the process on a spare piece of sheet metal first. All went well as the air chisel was easy to control and hold steady and the hoodlace provides a great cushion so no metal get impacted or bent.

 

Scott

[JACK M]

Love it when a plan comes together.

[Gary_Ash]

An alternative is brass "acorn fasteners" or "round head fasteners".  ACCO is the best known supplier, available at office supply stores.  Poke the two prongs through the hole and use a screwdriver to spread them.  They will easily hold hood lace in place.  Go for the solid brass ones, not the brass-plated steel ones.

 

See http://www.officedepot.com/catalog/search.do?Ntt=round+head+fasteners&searchSuggestion=true

[Stude Light]

I've seen those nickel plated too. That would have been a lot easier!