Seth Rose Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Alright guys my tank started leaking a few days ago so I dropped it to figure out what the problem was turn out there is a pin hole in the seam going around the outside. Im going to try to see if it can be fixed there is a guy in town that fixed fuel tanks and if he cant it appears a new tank can be bought. Now what im wondering is if the part that goes into the tank can be bought the pump and fuel sending unit appear to be in pretty good shape and both worked flawlessly but the metal lines on top are so rusted and gunked up that i dont want to put them back in just to have them rust out in a year. I couldn't even get the fittings apart under fear id twist them in half. I can post pictures tomorrow of what I am talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dashmaster Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Seth, I used POR15 Tank Sealer to seal a bent gas tank from a tire problem on 1973 Chevy Wagon. I removed the tank and took it to a repair shop to see if it could be fixed they said no because it was bent at the seams. Finding another wagon tank was almost impossible so I tried the POR15 Tank sealer. I had used some of their other products before with great results, get this and follow the directions. It fixed the wagon tank. Never had an issue with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 The time and work involved to drop the tank make it cost effective to replace it with new parts now. From my perspective, that means new tank, sending unit, and ( quality) fuel pump. And if the lines under the car are rusted such that you cannot get the fittings apart, then I would also replace them and the brake lines too. This may seem unnecessary expense for what looks like half decent materials under there. But once things start to leak it's just going to reoccur on an increasingly frequent basis. These cars were built well, but not expected to be around this long. For future security of mind and reliability, just go the distance now. The time you save in the future can be used for driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seth Rose Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 ok this is what im needing i will probably put a new fuel pump in it while i have it out but the sending unit looks perfectly fine the tank im sure can be fixed and if not i will buy a new one I don't want to mess with trying to cream the stupid thing. what i need is the piece that has the 3 lines coming out of it the piece that the sending unit and fuel pump attach to. what is it called? and when i go to put the new one on I had to cut the rubber lines because the fittings wouldn't come apart would it be ok to use barbed fittings with hose clamps? not really sure how much pressure those lines carry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 A new tank in the Reatta Store is less than $150 with free shipping. I wouldn't drop the tank for that if you paid me. I wouldn't take the chance of having to drop the tank again by using a sealer that might not work. New tank straps, fuel pumps and other items you will need are there too. As for the rusted lines... you will need to contact Jim Finn ( select60s@gmail.com ) or another vendor to get a good used pump assembly and fuel lines. They are not available new to my knowledge. Install a new pump, pulsator and strainer in the assembly, Install that new tank and you're done. Instructions for replacing the tank and the pump can be found here. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Fuel pressure from the pump may be as high as 60psi or more before it reaches the regulator so any splices you make need to be substantial. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dashmaster Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Based on your picture, you have a lot more rust than I had when doing mine for fuel pump replacement. I do think replacement parts would be a good investment. The gas tank sealer works good but looks like you have lots of rust to deal with. I had rusty lines on the other end of the flex lines in my car, so I cut the metal line there thinking the flex line might be hard to get. I was able to soak the joint between the flex an metal line and get them to unbolt. I then got new lines that bolted to the flex lines from NAPA, and then used compression fittings to mate the to metal lines running up to the engine. I also had rust like you show but not as bad on the top side of the tank and pump assembly. I sanded off the rust,inspected for holes, then POR15 pained the top and lines. Check you fuel filler neck also. The metal band that holds the vent line to filler rusted and made a hole in the vent line. I had to cut the vent line shorter and use a longer rubber line to connect it. There was no hole in the filler. All these parts and exterior of the tank where painted with POR15 paint to eliminate any future rusting. You can also get a new plastic line conversion kits on Amazon and convert the car to the new plastic flexible line that all the new cars use. Hopefully you don't have rusted brake lines also. The area where the brake distribution valve is,where all the lines are bunched together is where I had bad rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 I agree with Ronnie, just replace everything and make sure only to use a quality pump (I used to say only use AC Delco pumps but do not know who or where they are made anymore. With that much rust on the fuel lines, I be inspecting the brake lines very closely also. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Vega Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 I agree with the others. Go with new. Also as stated, this is a great time to inspect and replace brake lines. The brake line that goes over the rear cradle is most likely worse than the fuel lines. Easy to do without the gas tank in the way. If a brake or fuel fitting is so rusty it twists the line, replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machiner 55 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 (edited) Personally I wouldn't try a tank repair. I've changed out three Reatta tanks in the last decade and i agree with Ronnie that new is the way to go since most of what's needed is still available new. Except for the aforementioned sender assembly.There are two way to go with that sender assy. One. find a vendor that has one available. Prices are higher in the East. Or two, have the one you have repaired. I cant tell for sure by the pics but it looks like the metal lines need replaced. That will only work if the elbow fittings and the "lid" they are attached to are still in good shape. Gotta go to work now, John F. Edited June 14, 2015 by Machiner 55 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seth Rose Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 alright thanks guys. I'll get ahold of Jim and see what he has. and its got all new brake lines when I switched the car to power brakes instead of that dumb abs unit i replaced all the lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Corvanti Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Seth, 89 Maui (Woody), replaced his metal fuel lines from the tank on his '89 Reatta for the "plastic" lines from a '90 (or '91?) Reatta parts car that another Forum member had. JIm Finn: reattas60@gmail.com (or others) may have them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry yarnell Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Plastic lines don't rust, BUT the lawn rats will gnaw on them and put holes in them. BTDT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seth Rose Posted June 21, 2015 Author Share Posted June 21, 2015 ya im waiting for Jim to get home and look to see if he has the parts he was at the Buick meet last week and is at back to the 50's now so the car patiently waits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 If jim does not have the lines. I have a new set for a 90-91 that will work for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 That part you need is called a sending unit on the parts book. Inside the tank they are all pretty much the same but once outside there are several different part numbers for Reatta/Riviera.I have a Reatta/Riviera parts book and a Cadillac E/K (Eldorado/Seville) parts book. Of course the parts book does not tell you the differences or have good pictures.Below is a list of all the different part numbers listed in both parts books. 86 = Riviera = 25092969, E/K = 2509230887 = Riviera = 25092736, E/K = 2509273388 = Riviera = 25092736, E/K = 25093484, Reatta = 2509273689 = Riviera = 25094830, E/K = 25094825, Reatta = 2509483090 = Riviera = 25027029, E/K = 25027029, Reatta = 25027029 coupe, Reatta = 25027228 conv91 = Riviera = 25028165, E/K = Reatta = 25028165 coupe, Reatta = 25028167 convI do not have Cadillac part numbers after 1990 and Buick part numbers after 1991 The main differences in these parts are the length of the 3 lines coming out the top and the fitting on the end.Example is the 90-91 Reatta coupes and convertibles.... the fuel filter on the convertible is toward the back, the coupe is near the front, this changes the line lengths. The fuel tank on Reatta, Riviera, Eldorado and Seville are all interchangeable. I know Jim Finn will have more details and other vendors may share their knowledge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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