Seth Rose

Would anyone need this carb? I found it while cleaning out a house and couldn’t toss it because they don’t make stuff like this anymore and I know it might be the last piece to complete someone’s project. I’m going through the same thing myself looking for an obsolete part for my Galaxie so I know the struggle of not being able to find that last piece.

Awesome! Thank you very much! This website is great.

I found this carburetor in a house I cleaned out. I’m trying to figure out what application it’s for. Tillotson website says it’s from 1959 and for a Lauson engine but the throat on this thing is huge so I am not really sure if that’s the application. Any info would be appreciated. Also I searched for Tillotson on here and went through all 350 posts and could not find anything other than people trying to sell similar ones. If I can find what it goes to I might be able to find someone who needs it for their project or maybe find whatever it goes to and have another project myself 😂

Your right on the sc 3800 but the rarity of that car and the sound of the V8. Don’t get me wrong I love the 3800 it’s a bulletproof engine. But a v8 reatta man I’ve dreamt of this car for a while ever since I saw it 4 years ago. Plus if I can get a bonded title for it then my other one could get a sc3800. I’ll talk to her face to face when I get home and if it’s still available. Maybe it’s to good to be true but there is only one way to find out.

Also I’m not really interested in the car just the parts from it to use in mine, and I can strip a car pretty darn quick ? I’m joking

So it is a motorcycle shop/Ebay seller. And idk anything about the title part of it I’ll ask her for sure so I don’t get screwed. But it’s legit I found it on google and the pictures of the drive and the garage match the ones on the add. I’ll keep you guys updated for sure. Now I kinda can’t wait to get back to the US.

Nope it’s a different number she gave me. I may try to call her tomorrow if I have time. Yea I think it’s a girl who put the add up by the way.

I thought that as well like maybe it has switched hands a few times and the title got lost and so forth. The steering wheel is the craigslist pictures look a little bit dirtier than the other post indicating some wear maybe. Idk I think it’s worth a shot if it’s still around at the end of the month.

I know I thought it was pretty cheap. I can’t currently go look at it as I’m overseas. But if it’s still available when I get home I’ll try to go look at it the guy seemed pretty friendly and gave me his phone number. Idk maybe it is a scam it’s atleast worth following up I think. Thanks guys.

I just saw this on craigslist. My first thought is it’s a scam. I thought the Northstar reatta was still in the Midwest somewhere. I’m not saying someone else couldn’t have built one but I’m very interested in that body kit and the engine for my reatta as this one has not title https://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/d/1989-buick-reatta-with/6443556625.html

Bd61 reads 0

The rings on the balancer just have 4 allen headed bolts that hold them on and yes they had a build up of crud on them. I think the rail is leaking I was looking at it today when it was running and there was a small amount of fuel coming out of the shrader valve where you can check fuel pressure. Can the OX sensor be salvaged some how if it is poisoned? I'll set the TPS tomorrow thanks guys.

Just drove it and it still chugs and sputters from 0 to 1/4 throttle and the RPMs are bouncing still. Perhaps I don't have the crank sensor set correctly still? I used a matchbook like someone suggested and pushed the sensor up to it but we noticed it can be angled to much in either direction. We pulled the rings off the balancer and cleaned them we were sure to mark it before we removed them so we put them back on correctly. It still registers 20 RPM while not running...confusing

alright I found a pretty substantial vaccum leak that appears to leading to the bottom of the EGR I got that fixed and the car did run better so I let it warm up and ran the diagnostic again and these are the numbers I have now ED01 .62 TPS ED04 84 DEGREES COOLANT TP ED06 4.9-5.3 MS INJ PW ED07 .53-.55 OXY SENOR ED10 14.2 BATT VOLTS ED11 800-850 RPM ED16 0 DEGREES ESC ED17 3131 OPA3 ED18 30-40 CROSS CTS ED19 128 INT FUEL ED20 105 BLM FUEL ED21 8.0 AIR FLOW ED22 39 IAC ED23 18 DEGREES MAT ED98 4 IGN CYCLES Again it sounded much better I put it in reverse and the idle went down to about 600-650 RPM I have not test drove it yet just wanted to make sure these number sounded correct to you guys thank you so much you've all been very helpful another reason I love this site.

The EGR was brand new so i don't know I might put the other back on and try it. And yes the car was off when I did the diagnostic check. I know it's better if it's running but I was letting the car cool down I'd just drove it I'll try it tomorrow while it's running. And I thought it might be a vacuum leak I'll see if I can get that figured out. Thanks

ok this is with the car not running so maybe I did the diagnostics wrong but here we go. im going to cross reference this data as we speak with the data in the book but if someone sees something wrong or maybe im doing something wrong please tell me because I really wanna drive this car before I leave. TPS .62 and then goes up to 4.20 ED06 18.7 MS INJ PW ED07 .45 OX ED08 70 degree spark ED11 20 RPM ED16 0 degree ESC ED17 0 OPA3 ED18 0 CROSS CTS ED19 128 INT FUEL ED20 128 BLM FUEL ED21 .0 AIR FLOW ED22 150 IAC ED23 33 degree MAT ED98 2 IGN CYCLES ED99 2544 PROM ID

well I still have the rough idle I took it for a drive today and it runs like crap from a dead stop. Afterfires through the muffler it acts like its getting to much fuel and the RPM's are still jumping all over the place Ill go and get the figures on the diagnostics and let you all know what I find out. I should mention it just has a pod fliter on it and its straight piped to a flowmaster with no cat because it broke off there and I just replaced it with a piece of pipe. so far ive replaced the ICM and coil crank sensor cam sensor and interuptor got rid of my E041 code OX sensor and I scored a new EGR for 20 bucks at wrench n' go also I took the throttle body off and cleaned the IAC MAF and all the gunk out of the throttle body its self.

Got the car to run today but its running very rough it was the CPS as far as it not getting spark to run did the matchbook trick and it worked great. I checked the on board diagnostics and did get a few codes. E041 current/history cam sensor circuit. Im going to check the wiring sensor and interrupter magnet tomorrow using the manual. E034 history mass airflow sensor freq. low. I'll clean it and the IAC with some carb cleaner or maybe some seafoam. B671 current cruise position sensor. Im not extremely worried about having cruise but hey Ive got the manual and time I might check it out. Heres to hoping that cam sensor will fix the rough idle if not Im sure I'll be back to ask more questions. Also I am happy to serve. I have enjoyed the experience so far and it was a great choice. Thank you for the help

Hey guys long time no talk been away at BMT and just got home for leave and am working on my reatta while ive got the chance. when I left the car I had driven it and then shut it off and then it would not restart I replaced the CPS and the car would start and run rough so I got a new ICM as mine was corroded to heck and nasty and figured a new coil wouldn't hurt either. Now it wont run at all acts like it has no spark and I can smell fuel. a few other things I should mention when I turn the key to the run position and wait I get a low oil pressure warning I never got before and when I flip to the gauges the RPM is bouncing around between 4250 and max rpm even though im not even cranking the car. any help would be much appreciated thanks.

Correct Barney but it was after I had just put a new bulb in that the highs worked. It has to be in the wiring some where as the plug to the module isn't get power to the right pins. I used the service manual to trouble shoot that. I don't have the time right now to chase the wiring all the way back as I'm leaving in 2 weeks for Air Force BMT so I'll just raise the light manually for now thanks guys for all the help.

Ahh good to know! Ok back to the headlight question. Would a burnt out high beam cause the headlight not to pop up?? I'm at a loss here the motor works plugged it into the passenger side and it ran.

Yup that's what it was changed it today thanks!

Finally got a fuel tank in the old girl and she runs after a few years of not. Anyways now it won't start while in park. Starts just fine while in neutral though anybody have this problem before??

Ok I hooked it to the passenger side motor and it still didn't work. so I followed the wires back through the loom and pulled them out to make sure they were not broken. followed them all the way back to the control module. Its a new used one from Jim Finn so it should be fine I have no reason to doubt the control module. any ideas? is it possible it could be one of the pins in either of the plugs. Wiring looks pretty straight forward. 2 wires to each motor. also that green plug sitting on the other wiring loom. where does it plug into because it was unplugged when I started this task was just laying there. looks like a ground but it doesn't run into the loom for the lights just curious.

Im having trouble with my drivers side headlight door. It doesnt work at all the light its self works on high beams and on low beams. It has new bell cranks and has new rollers as well. (thanks Barney) I want to make sure im getting power to the motor does anyone have any idea how to do this? I hooked a multimeter to the two wires that plug into the motor and nothing when I flipped the lights on. Perhaps I hooked the multimeter up incorrectly? I have a spare control module as well just in case (thanks Jim) this really has me stumped the passenger side works just fine with both switches. Thanks guys.