32bizcoupe Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 I pulled the axle out of my 1952 l110 international in two pieces. It is a rear drivers side, semi floating. The truck had a spare in the back but it had been sitting out in the weather. Is it to rusted or pitted to use? I let it sit in evaporust and took a wire wheel to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Soak it in a molasses mix 6 parts water to one part molasses from the feed store for a week or two and the rust will be gone. Make sure to get all of the grease off as the molasses will not work thru grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32bizcoupe Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 Do you think the tapered end is to pitted to use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Layden B Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Try it in the hub. Does it seat and draw up tight as it should? A bit of Prussian Blue will tell how much contact area there is between the hub and axle, it does not need to be perfect as long as the 2 mate together well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 You can lap it in with fine valve grinding compound. This may make the hub sit farther in. I would suggest getting a better axle but that may not be so easy.Worst comes to worst you could use some Loctite. If you do that, try to plan ahead so you never have to take the hub off. Make the brake drum removable, and if you have to get access to backing plate bolts, drill a hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32bizcoupe Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Old axle before it was removed. Backing plate attaches to axle housing over axle seal then drum onto tapered axle with key and axle nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidAU Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I would just clean it up and use it. Maybe a quick sand blast just to make sure the rust is out of the pits.It is the key that is doing all the work so as long as that is tight it should be OK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whtbaron Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I don't think pitting on the taper is going to be as problematic as if it's pitted where the seal runs. That could cause problems with gear oil leakage. Maybe see if you can clean that up with some fine emery cloth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Sorry, the key does not hold the hub from turning. The taper wedges the two parts together. If they are not tight enough the hub can turn on the axle. This may not happen if the truck is driven gently but is always a possibility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidAU Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 "Sorry, the key does not hold the hub from turning."What does the key do then? It is my understanding that the axle and hub are tapered so when the nut is tightened up they are drawn together to create friction, centralize the hub on the shaft, counter side loading (which is high on auto's) and to stop them flogging. The key takes the power transfer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Layden B Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 If the taper was not tight then the axle would slip in the hub and the drive would be with the key. When put in reverse the axle would slip the other direction against the key. This would wear out the key, shear the axle keyway and generally go bad quickly. The key is basically a safety backup, it is the taper action with the hubnut drawn tight that locks the hub to the axle and does not allow any motion between them. Theroetically no key is needed, practically it also stops the axle from turning inside the hub when the nut is tightened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 You could have the other axle welded. My Grandfather broke an axle in 1949 and had it hammer welded by an old prairie blacksmith, It is still in the car (which now has 499,000 miles on it) and runs straight and true. The axle has outlasted three crown and pinions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30 Hupp Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 You could have the other axle welded. My Grandfather broke an axle in 1949 and had it hammer welded by an old prairie blacksmith, It is still in the car (which now has 499,000 miles on it) and runs straight and true. The axle has outlasted three crown and pinions.Amazing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 I pulled the axle out of my 1952 l110 international in two pieces. It is a rear drivers side, semi floating. The truck had a spare in the back but it had been sitting out in the weather. Is it to rusted or pitted to use? I let it sit in evaporust and took a wire wheel to it.[ATTACH]233191[/ATTACH]Been there, done that. Here is a link to my experience. http://forums.aaca.org/f169/making-axles-again-322685.html And another one by Dandy Dave: http://forums.aaca.org/f115/cant-buy-make-1915-buick-axle-228330.html good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stude1946 Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 I managed a large truck shop for several years. In the course of my duties I ran into several incidents where axles on trucks and trailers would need axles would need repair or replacement. In these cases I would call in a welder who would come to our shop and weld new axle stubs on to repair the damaged ones. There should be a welder in your area that could perform this type repair. Be sure to keep the original bearings so he can match them to the correct axle stub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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