Pertronix Ignitor

[Tom_Tams]

I have a friend that drives a '40 Packard 120 coupe (nice car). He is wanting to install a Pertronix ignition but cannot find a listing to match his distributor which is an Autolite 1GP 4501. Does anyone know what will work?

[Rusty_OToole]

I don't think they make 6v ones. But if anyone knows it should be the company that makes them. Did you ask Pertronix?

[Guest Bob Call]

Pertronix does make 6V kits. Go to their website to see their catalog. If you don't find what you need call them and ask. Any posibility this distibutor was also used on Mopars?

[Tom_Tams]

Actually the Petronix part# is 1585AP6. It will work with Hudson , Chrysler and assorted other makes. The unit is designed to fit most Autolite 1PC 4000 series 8cyl. distributors.

[Owen_Dyneto]

Though it may work out for your friend, there are many reports of folks who switched back to points/condenser after trying Pertronix on 6-volt positive ground cars. The problem most of them report is difficult starting due to the triggering voltage needed by Pertronix is often not available due to heavy draw from the starter motor. Were it my car and I wanted a reliable touring car, I'd stick with the conventional ignition.

[ply33]

Though it may work out for your friend, there are many reports of folks who switched back to points/condenser after trying Pertronix on 6-volt positive ground cars. The problem most of them report is difficult starting due to the triggering voltage needed by Pertronix is often not available due to heavy draw from the starter motor. Were it my car and I wanted a reliable touring car, I'd stick with the conventional ignition.

I've heard too of others who have had failures on the road. So they end up carrying a spare distributor. Seems like points are not made to the same quality as in the old days so even if you've installed new points before a tour you might want to carry a spare set. A spare set of points sure takes less room than a spare distributor when packing for touring.

For what is worth, I seem to get maybe 8,000 miles from a set of points nowadays while I recall getting more like 15,000 when all cars had points and condenser ignition. But that is still long enough that I haven't had a failure on the road. Worst case was once deciding to do a tune up prior to a touring season when, before inspection and lubrication of the car, I had thought I could wait one more year.

[Bhigdog]

Though it may work out for your friend, there are many reports of folks who switched back to points/condenser after trying Pertronix on 6-volt positive ground cars. The problem most of them report is difficult starting due to the triggering voltage needed by Pertronix is often not available due to heavy draw from the starter motor. Were it my car and I wanted a reliable touring car, I'd stick with the conventional ignition.

Can't speak of other's 6V Pertronix experiences but I've had one in my 39 Chevy PU for 12 years and use it almost every day other than winter. Never had a bit of trouble and it starts right up and even did so when my last battery was on it's last legs.................Bob

[D Yaros]

I have not heard, I have seen, people who had to have their car towed due to failure of the Petronix system. Most folks carry a "real" distributor should it be needed!

[Bhigdog]

I personally had to be towed because of a carb failure. I now carry an EFI set up. I also wear a belt, suspenders, and velcro. What it comes down to is if you are comfortable with points and don't mind the hassle use them. If you like the maintenance free aspect of an electronic switch use it. Both can, on occasion, fail for one reason or another. Anything made by the hand of man will, at some point, fail. In the mean time they both work fine. The best defense against failures of any kind or sort is a AAA policy. Oy vey already............Bob.

Edited October 17, 2013 by Bhigdog (see edit history)

[Aaron65]

I personally had to be towed because of a carb failure. I now carry an EFI set up. I also wear a belt, suspenders, and velcro. What it comes down to is if you are comfortable with points and don't mind the hassle use them. If you like the maintenance free aspect of an electronic switch use it. Both can, on occasion, fail for one reason or another. Anything made by the hand of man will, at some point, fail. In the mean time they both work fine. The best defense against failures of any kind or sort is a AAA policy. Oy vey already............Bob.

This made my day, Bob...

[Guest]

I personally had to be towed because of a carb failure. I now carry an EFI set up. I also wear a belt, suspenders, and velcro. What it comes down to is if you are comfortable with points and don't mind the hassle use them. If you like the maintenance free aspect of an electronic switch use it. Both can, on occasion, fail for one reason or another. Anything made by the hand of man will, at some point, fail. In the mean time they both work fine. The best defense against failures of any kind or sort is a AAA policy. Oy vey already............Bob.

Electronic ignition is not maintenance free, you still have to pop the cap and examine it and the rotor, clean and re lubricate the mechanical advance weights, check the vacuum advance and curve and examine the distributor shaft for play. If you have a GM car with HEI you must at least once a year remove the module and clean off and re lubricate all the dielectric grease and re-install.....Two screws for the module, and if you had points and condenser Two screws as well... so it's a even draw unless setting the points with a dwell meter is a insurmountable task. To do the job properly either way requires a timing light.

[Bhigdog]

Or................You can do like the book says and apply a drop or two of EO to the dist shaft every 1000 miles. No need to lube the cam. Every 5000/10000 miles throw on a new cap/rotor. No need to check dwell or re-time. As for all the other stuff, if it it ain't broke don't fix it unless you just like to dick around with your car, in which case points/condensor will add to your joy.................Bob

Edited October 19, 2013 by Bhigdog (see edit history)

[DonMicheletti]

Bhigdog, I'm with you. Keep your gold plated screwdrivers in your pocket. We drove these "antiques" when they were just transportation. Fooled with them as little as possible and did the required maintenance. Thats all. And they worked well and were reliable - they were not fragile. Failures were very uncommon.

As to points. A friend bought a new '56 Buick. After several years (at about 25,00 miles) he complained that the car was getting hard to start. My dad asked if the car had been tuned up - the guy didnt know what he meant. My dad pulled the distributor cap and found that the contacts were all but gone - they had never been changed and the car did still did run!

I laugh at some comments where folks comment about driving their precious '57 Chevy at 75 - heck, we pushed them to see if they would do 120!

[Guest]

Or................You can do like the book says and apply a drop or two of EO to the dist shaft every 1000 miles. No need to lube the cam. Every 5000/10000 miles throw on a new cap/rotor. No need to check dwell or re-time. As for all the other stuff, if it it ain't broke don't fix it unless you just like to dick around with your car, in which case points/condensor will add to your joy.................Bob

No Bob I don't like to dick around on the car, however I hate dicking around on the car on the side of the road which is a hundred times worse than in my shop. Do it right once a year and you don't have to worry.