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Everything posted by Tom_Tams

  1. I'm looking for the molding for the rear panel of the trunk lid for my '62 Skylark convertible. Tom
  2. I'm trying to remove the cigar lighter socket from the dash panel of my '62 Skylark. I want to strip the dash panel down so that I can refinish it. I've got everything cleaned off except for the cigar lighter socket. Clearly there must be a trick, the obvious like turning what appears to be a round nut does not work. If anyone can help me out, I would really appreciate it
  3. I inadvertently stretched one of my '62 Skylark hood hinge springs. As per usual, there are not too many reproduced parts for those cars. Are there any other other GM cars with hood hinge springs that will fit? Chev would be good, lots of parts for them. In a relaxed state, the Skylark spring measures approx. 1.5 " in diameter and 7.125" from hook to hook.
  4. I'm trying to find a paint chart for the interior colors of a '62 Skylark. The trim number I want is 127 which is a white interior. I plan on painting the exterior Marlin Blue with a white top, white interior and blue carpet and dash pad. I got the paint code numbers for '63 and if I have to, I will go with those but I don't know if they are the same as '62 and I would like to stay as close to correct as I can.
  5. Hello Barney, I believe it was Flint.
  6. I've just about got the body work done on my '62 Skylark convertible and would like to keep it as close to correct as possible. Most of the forums I've visited have claimed that the interior of the trunk was painted with a speckled paint but mine seemed to be body colour, the interior is painted a brown colour over zinc chromate primer. Since the body was painted with a lacquer, I'm assuming that the interior brown is also a lacquer. Were all the A body Buicks painted like this? I'm particularly interested in the trunk colour because that will show, the interior paint won't.
  7. I got the thing out and apart. The snap ring retaining second gear had failed.
  8. Hi Mark, Thanks for the reply. I wish that would do it but I don't think so. It all happened suddenly, I was in second gear accelerating up a hill when the shift lever moved into the neutral position and the car was out of gear. I fear something broke, I'll find out this morning.
  9. I had my transmission out to repair the speedometer drive gear. Everything went back together fine, the car ran well and the speeometer worked. Now the trans pops out of second gear under load. I've never had that happen before and I'm afraid of what I'm going to find when I get it back out. Any thoughts?
  10. Hi John, Thanks for the reply. I cleaned things up a bit and found four spot welds on the outside edge of the joint. It shouldn't be too hard to cut those out.
  11. I'm doing some major body work on my '62 Skylark convertible project. I've got the trunk floor out and I have to replace the rear quarter panel up to the rear wheel well. It looks like the quarter panel is pinch welded to the inner fender. Is there a way of separating them or do I have to cut around the weld and hopefully repair the damage later? I'm an electrician not a bodyman so this is all new to me and the learning curve is steep. Tom
  12. I'm back to work on my '62, I don't ever give up even when common sense would dictate otherwise. My rear seat consists of mainly rust. The springs and frame are beyond salvage. I know that convertible rear seats are scarce but if anyone out there can give me a lead, I would be most appreciative.
  13. Hello again, The motion indeed resembles that of a "hula hoop". I've held on to the bottom of the cap with my left thumb and forefinger and can feel no thrust pushing the cap sideways, I can hold the cap on centre without applying much force, I don't have to grip it tightly. The car is in storage for the winter so in the spring I'll pull the distributor and have a good look. Thanks again, Tom
  14. Hi, I can't remember where I bought the cap but if I had to guess I would say that it had to be from one of two places, Bob's or CARS. There isn't a lot of force there, I can stop the movement with my thumb and forefinger without applying much pressure. It would seem that I either have a poorly fitting cap, worn distributor or both. I should add that the lateral movement is quite significant and it does follow the movement of the rotor. I think that the prudent solution would be to have the distributor checked, rebuilt, if necessary and the cap replaced. Thank you all for your help.
  15. I was looking for a misfire and had the engine running at an idle when I noticed something that I don't recall seeing before, the distributor cap was moving about in kind of a circular motion, as the rotor went around, the cap moved outwards following the motion of the rotor. Has anyone ever had this happen? I looked at the distributor and the cap and could see no appreciable wear and it didn't seem to be particularly loose and it didn't take much pressure by hand to stop it from moving. The cap is not old but is a reproduction. I found the cause of the misfire and the car seems to run fine so
  16. Actually the Petronix part# is 1585AP6. It will work with Hudson , Chrysler and assorted other makes. The unit is designed to fit most Autolite 1PC 4000 series 8cyl. distributors.
  17. I have a friend that drives a '40 Packard 120 coupe (nice car). He is wanting to install a Pertronix ignition but cannot find a listing to match his distributor which is an Autolite 1GP 4501. Does anyone know what will work?
  18. Thanks gentlemen, I will look into this further, I really don't want to pull the balancer and find that wasn't it. Regards, Tom
  19. Hello Grant, The torque ball is fine, the u-joint has been replaced, and the clutch and pressure plate have been replaced. The vibration is present when the car is stationary, in neutral and running at 1600 rpm. I checked the graph in my manual and 1600 rpm equals 30 mph withe gears and tires that are on the car. Strangely enough, 30 mph is when it's most noticeable when running, any guesses? Tom
  20. My '39 Special seems to have a vibration in the engine that seems to be RPM specific. The problem may be clutch related or harmonic balancer related. I've changed clutches before but the only time I messed withe harmonic balancer was when I assembled the engine. Is there a way to take it out without disassembling the front of the car?
  21. I'm gathering parts for my current project, a "62 Skylark convertible. I found, much to my chagrin that the bucket seats are different for the convertible and the coupe. I have the correct tracks for the driver's side but need them for the passenger side so that I can convert the set of coupe buckets I've got to fit the convertible. Any help in this regard would be greatly appreciated.
  22. Hi Rob, The whole thing is just under 2 ft in length. I don't know what it weighs, but I didn't have any problem putting it in a garbage bag and stuffing it under my work bench. I found the pinion and differential bearings in an interchange book, they fit a lot of cars, amongst them '63 to '65 Corvette so I don't think they will be a problem to source. The ring and pinion gear set looks almost impossible to find, they were only ade for those cars and only for the '61 - '62 model years.
  23. Hi Rob, I don't know what the V6 used but the 215 V8 used a Dual Path Dynaflow automatic. They were a 2 speed with a torque converter that shifted as well. These transmision are quite small and light and very hard to find. I have one that is rebuildable, I hope.
  24. I'm restoring a '62 Skylark convertible and I'm having a problem sourcing parts for the rear end such as; gears, bearings, shims etc. Does anyone know where these parts are available, or if they are?
  25. Hi, Before you tear your hair out, disconnect the suction side of the pump and have someone turn the engine over, put your thumb over the fitting on the suction side of the pump and see if there is in fact suction. You could also fasten a flexible line to the pump, putting the other end into a container of fuel and see if it sucks that up. If the above steps don't work out satisfactorily, I would suggest using an electric pump it will save a potential engine tear down to replace the cam.
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