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1940 Rocker arm question


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All:

I got the rocker arm off and started to disassemble. Are the support brackets affixed to the shaft? Are they pressed on somehow? The ones on each end seem stuck fast - I can use a hammer to rotate them a bit on the shaft but I don't think I want to go thru driving each one off. Heat? Or just leave alone and clean up as best I can like it is?

Cheers, Dave

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Guest Grant Magrath

I removed ours as an assembly and had to be careful that it all stayed together! Maybe your shaft is worn. It's been a few years since I had the coupe engine apart, my memory is a bit foggy, but I was under the impression that everything was just sitting on the rocker shaft.

Cheers

Grant

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I removed ours as an assembly and had to be careful that it all stayed together! Maybe your shaft is worn. It's been a few years since I had the coupe engine apart, my memory is a bit foggy, but I was under the impression that everything was just sitting on the rocker shaft.

Cheers

Grant

CORRECT. They will come off. PLEASE keep everything in order. Re install in the same order removed.Try pushing one of the end stands farther onto the shaft, then clean the shaft where it was, then it should come off.

Ben

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I don't recall any problems with getting the rockers or posts off the shaft.

On some of my early '39s, the rockers had bushings, the later engines didn't. I would think they would have been long gone by '40.

Again, just be methodical and ensure that it goes back together the same way it came apart, that is all rockers and posts go back to there original position.

Good luck,

Danny

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Well I got the rear bracket off finally. I braced the bracket on the bench edge and waled away on the shaft. It finally began to move. I had to emery cloth the end quite a bit before it would pass as it was a bit mushroomed. Finally got it off. I can work the bracket after cleaning so it will go on easy. Only 7 more to go!!

Cheers, Dave

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  • 1 month later...

OK, so I know you all have been waiting with bated breath (not!!) to find out what happened. So I was able to get the brackets off by using my 2 maple butcher block workbenches on either side of the bracket and pounding off with my 12 lb maul on top of a 2x4 on the rod.

Progress photos:

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So I cleaned as I went, using gasoline bath -> carb cleaner -> ultrasonic cleaner, making sure all orifices were clear. I also emery'd the rod and dressed the inside of the brackets so they would slide back on easily. Before I got smart and started using a 2x4 on the rod, I was striking it directly, with the consequence that a splinter came off and dug into my arm! It took about a week before I could dig it out! About 0.1 in long...

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So here is the rod ready for reassembly...

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So I cleaned out the rod as best I could and pressure washed it. I did not pull and replace the end caps, hope I don't regret that. Anyhow, reassembly pix:

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So I going merrily along, thought I was done, but...!!! Can you see what I did??

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So after I recovered from that mistake, here is the final assembly:

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After reinstalling on the engine:

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So I checked the pushrods while I was dong this. All looked good, but I did have 4, err, rather unusual looking pushrods, obviously somebody's project some years ago:

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They seem to work OK so I will leave them in. Everything seemed to work OK after reinstall and the oil is coming out all of the holes OK, but not nearly as prodigiously as in Tim Romans' '41 SSE. But I got the valves lashed and now it is quiet and runs great! But more investigation has lead to other issues...to be continued in another thread...

Cheers, Dave

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Dave,

The very last picture in post # 6 of the push rod. This is the correct rod, where the top looks "tulip shaped".

When I did mine, I found 6 that were not of this configuration. The OEM tubes are thicker by a few thousanths than the others I found in the "Baby". Luckily Bob's had a '40 big engine out back, and he sold me the 6 OEM's I needed. Later I found a source for brand new rods at a very good price. I posted them in "Why you should open all your covers" thread.

You went a lot further than I did in taking the whole mess apart. I just pulled the assembly and soaked it overnight in petrol. Then dialed the rockers on the shaft to were I could get a wire thru the rocker, into the tube and shot some brake cleaner in the hole.

Reassembled the shaft and poured a cup of oil down the length of the shaft, and filled the tube at the little feed hole up front.

Congrat's to you for a job well done.........

Mike in Clorado

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I'm afraid I couldn't say what amount at what pressure over what time is good or bad other than to say none at all would not be good.

The important thing is that there is oil getting through every rocker keeping the rockers and rods constantly lubricated. It certainly shouldn't poor out and is usually just a trickle.

Danny

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I finished rebuilding the engine on the '38 Special a while back. I wanted to run the engine on the stand to adjust the valves and check for oil and water leaks and just generally tune it while everything was easy to get to.

Before I put the distributor in, I made an oil pump drive to fit to my 1/2" drill (that runs a 500 rpm) so I could pre lube the engine and see what the cold oil pressure would be and see if there any leaks (there was a very small one in the rocker feed at the block)

While this was a virtually dry engine, the oil pressure came up immediately. I had the rocker cover off to see how things were up there.

The drill ran and ran and ran and I didnt see any oil at the rockers. I loosened the oil line fitting at the head and ran the drill - plenty of oil there. Finally, oil started to come out of the rockers closest to the feed. It must have taken 2 minutes before the oil reached #8 exhaust rocker. I'd guess that with that restrictor in the oil fitting it takes a long time to fill that hollow shaft up.

Once the engine was running all looked good.

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Dave : What prompted you to attempt this job in the first place. My 37's 248 ci engine has a pretty good "Tick" going on with it. And I would like to quiet it down. Larry

Larry,

You had better open all your covers, especially the side plate behind the dist. Might be a bent pushrod like Grant and I had. That will make for a pretty sloppy valve lash setting.

Mike in Colorado

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Mike: Yeah, the one end looks OK, but take a look at a closeup of the other end:

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Check out that custom fit. It appears someone took an OEM rod and made a FrankenRod. And I have 3 others that look the same. Well, it seems to work OK and all 16 are straight!

Danny: Thanks. Trickle is about what it is doing, even after all of the cleaning. Tim Romans '41-46SSE has a better flow, I think, but at this point I am going to leave it and see how it goes.

Larry: Well, it has sounded like an angry sewing machine since I got it last year and a valve adjust finally moved to the top of the list as I am moving thru the issues. I had a lot of problems getting the cover off (see here) but once I did it was apparent that the arm was somewhat garmed and the oil was not coming out of all of the orifices. So one thing leads to another, as they say. Once I got it back on I got the valves set (and some needed a *lot* of slack removal) it not only runs a lot quieter but smoother and cooler as well.

Don: Yeah, I used my squeeze trigger oiler to pre-fill the rocker arm shaft and it took 2 cans (4 oz ea) to fill it.

Cheers, Dave

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Dave,

A couple of mine also had some grinding on them in the bottom area, but they checked out straight.

Question... Do you have a bypass oil filter ? If not, I remember a post by Grant about a filter screen inside the head where the oil line screws in. You might want to check for a "blockage" there. Seems not to pertain to engines with the big bypass filter, but I checked mine just to be sure, = not there.

Mike in Colorado

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Still checking things off prior to the drive to South Bend. Today called the vacuum wiper repair man to make sure he recieved my 37's wiper. Delivered last monday. His web ad states 2 week turn around so I thought that would give me a week buffer to get reinstalled before we had to leave for the Nationals. He indicated today that mine was probably not rebuildable. And that mine was at the end of about 70 or so do be done. Said that I should have sent it over a month ago. And no... he has nothing to substitute for it. I guess "RainX". Spent the afternoon adjusting the valve lash on the 37 one rocker was about .010 out and ticking badly. Took it out for a drive and warmed it up good before doing the rocker adjusting dance. About 1/2 of the valves needed readjusted. Nice and Quiet now!! Cleaned the little screen filter where the external oil line that goes into the block to feed the rocker arm. I quess I will pull the side covers. More to do! Larry

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All this talk of adjusting rockers inspired me to by one of these gizmos.

Never used one nor needed one to date but thought it would be a nifty thing to have around.

Anyone had any experience with one ??

Danny

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While I had the top open I retorqued the head after It was good and hot after the resetting of the lash. Next morning I went to fill her up @$3.24 and added "Startron"to combat our ethanol problems. When I got back home after the 5 mile round trip I could hear the exhaust popping like there was a bad valve. So off came the valve cover again and I re did the valves again. I didn't think retorqueing the head could have caused this. But most of the rockers needed some adjustment. Better now. While I was out in the drive way I thought I would do a radiator flush before the South Bend trip. Thought I would check to see what thermostat was inside... More bad news... on another thread. Larry

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