Guest btate Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Mike, I tell you that the first group that get here , I will give them a 3 hour ride ride via boat thru the mountains of Tennessee to downtown Chattanooga and one of the best steak houses in town. I can transport up to 15 people but rather do no more than 12. It is a beautiful cruise thru the mountains. I am waiting!!!! I got all the tools and a lift Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest btate Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Oh! We will load the boat down with beer and martini's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 And with our bellies full and tanked up, we'll go back to Bill's place and work on his car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhclark Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 ROAD TRIP! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Instead of "liking" each recent post, how about I just say that I like where this is headed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Personally I would skip all the beer and steaks just to hear the 264 running like it should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadmaster75 Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Instead of "liking" each recent post, how about I just say that I like where this is headed?OKI'll volunteer my recently completed "LOADMASTER" for charitablework on the road for this esteemed group....!Yeah....it's a 455 big block Buick with Turbo 400 trans...56 Olds rear end.It will pull stumps!Now....who's got the trailer?Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest btate Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Well today was______ my last attempt. I have taken the carb apart 4 times now. I thought the floats were too high and barely bent the tab maybe 1/16" and re assembled and could not get any fuel to the carb. I re-adjusted back to where the floats were set originally and it runs but hesitates as before upon accerlation and going around a curve. I proceeded with engine tuning and went by the manual and set rpm's at 350 and timing at 9 BTDC and adjusted the bleed screws. The bleed screws increased the rpm's and I adjusted the second one and I believe I have it at its best setting. The vacuum needle at 350 rpm's is all over the place from 5 to 15 psi. I increased the rpm's to 500 and needle flutters between 10 and 15 psi. We did the intake manifold leak check and did not find a leak. There's a local auto repair shop that I know that is very good but he throws everything at the car I am sure he would install new plugs even if I told him the plugs are only a week old. He is not into show cars and I experienced that when I took my Olds to him. two or three scratches on the fender. I was able to buff out. I am sure I would be in the range of about 5 to 6 hundred maybe more . He is not cheap. The engine builder said he installed the parts I sent him and I must have a defective part. I am sticking the oil leak on the back burner since I may have to abandon this engine. By the way, I installed the MSD" red" vacuum advance stop in place of the blue one. The car now has 950 miles on it. I do not think it is going to get any better by driving it and more miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 (edited) Bill, there is a flat-head screw with a little gasket on the driver side of the carb bowl if it's a WCD. That is for checking the proper float level. After running the engine and shutting back down, there should be fuel dribbling out that hole when you remove the screw. If a lot runs out it may be too high, if none runs out it is too low. Low float level won't fill the accelerator pump cavity and fuel slosh in a curve won't feed the main jets. The hesitation could also be the "driveability" issue I mentioned about not having a vacuum advance hooked up if it still isn't. My timing is set 3/4" BEFORE THE TIMING TAB for the same issue you are having, you COULD NOT DRIVE IT before I did that. I don't know why and don't care because she drives nice and NO PINGING OR CLATTER when I accelerate under load. Vacuum is stable at 17" hg, 20" from vacuum pump wiper hose. The flutter you have will NOT go away no matter how long you ignore it. If the valve seats and valves were ground too far, the valves bury up in the head effectively making them longer and protrude up against the rocker arms and pushtubes. If the rockers are not adjustable, the lifter is bottomed out internally and effectively becomes solid and begins holding the valve off seat. The lifter can only absorb appx .075" before it bottoms and holds the valve open. This would be MOST noticeable on hot engine because the valves actually grow in length. As Willie already stated, the possiblity of mismatched lifters and pushtubes should not be discounted. As to which cylinder or cylinders is causing the pulsing vacuum reading; start the engine COLD and run for 20 seconds, kill it and feel of the exhaust manifold at each port to find the cold one, crank and run 20 sec and feel again, crank and run 20 sec and feel again. Repeat until it becomes obvious which cylinders are at fault. your temp gun will assist you after the manifolds become too hot to feel. SORRY, IT IS IMPOSSIBLE FOR ME TO MAKE THE TRIP TO CHATTANOOGA, WISH I COULD. There, Ive said my peace and shall not post on this thread any more. Regards, John Edited June 7, 2013 by TexasJohn55 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest btate Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Thanks John for all your help. I don't know what a WCD carb is but mine is a Strongberg. Seems like I did see a screw on side but didn't know what it's purpose. I will check. I do not know how I would know if he ground the seats too much. I guess If the valves don't make a good closer, that could cause the poor vacuum and erratic needle on vacuum gauge. I also do not know how to check if lifters are 56' and pushrods are 55' ---- I remember Willie said send him a picture but I am not capable of that. Thanks Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron65 Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 That screw on the side of a Stromberg does the same thing. When you remove it with the engine running, fuel should be just at the bottom of the threads. If it pours out, the float level's too high. If it doesn't, well, too low. I know this has been brought up several times...I'd really be leaning toward pushrod length/lifter compatibility. I have little experience with Nailheads, but Willie does, and the way the engine's running sure does lean in that direction. If you drive it too long with the valves not sealing, you'll start burning them, and the heads will have to come off. I'd be pulling a valve cover, removing the rocker shaft, and measuring a pushrod and getting back to the nailhead guys with the length at the very least right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 54fins Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Most unfortunate to hear of your troubles. At this point, there is definitely a bit of data overload. The engine should run smooth, anything less there is definitely a problem. I hope it is the carb, as the valves do not have an easy fix and the electrical is probably ruled out. I know there are quite a few nailhead people in your area. If it's valves, the rebuilder needs to take care of it but that has to be verified. Sometimes an old worn out carb just won't work right and you have to pop on a good spare to prove it. if it still runs bad, then you can stop chasing the carb. If you have the rebuilder pull the heads and they are good, they will have a good bit of shop time they have to charge you for. I have an old 264 that was left out in the rain and it rusted the rings. It smokes like crazy but it starts perfect and runs smooth as a clock. Often these old engines run too well, tricking you into putting off an oil change, case in point my boat anchor. Being a rebuild, It's gotta be valves or carb but you have to verify which one at this point to move forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest btate Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Saturday I removed the carb for the 5th time and re-set the floats. Thanks to John who informed me about the brass inspection screw on the side of the carb. I had been going the wrong way due to thinking the engine hesitated due to floats being too high. The engine is now getting fuel and no hesitation or strutting in a turn. I am not much of a mechanic but now carb was functioning I decided to re set timing. I was all over the place because I didn't realize such a small movement changed timing so much. I set at 5, 10, in addition a measurement of 1/4" 1/2, 3/4, and 1" past the end of the marked plate. It runs best at 3/4" below the marked plate. I then check vacuum and it was almost steady at 16 and at 700 rpm. I settled on 510 rpm since I have a/c. I now believe I am ready to move forward to the rear oil leak. I would have never been able to do this with all your post and help. I would have never looked for the brass screw in side of carb for fuel level if John had not posted it. I kept thinking it was too full of fuel. Thanks a million. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadmaster75 Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Nutz, Bill!We were looking forward to the road trip & earning those steaks, Martinis, and boat ride ......Seriously,congrats on making big progress!mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Well, you might remember a post I made suggesting you consider collecting watches. I guess I can blame the two collectible watches I recently bought on you.Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest btate Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Thanks Bernie, I came close to taking you up on the deal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Saturday I removed the carb for the 5th time and re-set the floats. Thanks to John who informed me about the brass inspection screw on the side of the carb. I had been going the wrong way due to thinking the engine hesitated due to floats being too high. The engine is now getting fuel and no hesitation or strutting in a turn. I am not much of a mechanic but now carb was functioning I decided to re set timing. I was all over the place because I didn't realize such a small movement changed timing so much. I set at 5, 10, in addition a measurement of 1/4" 1/2, 3/4, and 1" past the end of the marked plate. It runs best at 3/4" below the marked plate. I then check vacuum and it was almost steady at 16 and at 700 rpm. I settled on 510 rpm since I have a/c. I now believe I am ready to move forward to the rear oil leak. I would have never been able to do this with all your post and help. I would have never looked for the brass screw in side of carb for fuel level if John had not posted it. I kept thinking it was too full of fuel. Thanks a million. BillAnd the natives rejoiced at the smooth running 264! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Let's hope this native is applicable. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIVfbylUU-MBernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick840 Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Another satisfied customer This is why I love this Forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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