metal pits

[Guest vacabill]

sorry for asking all these questions, but I am new at this, as I go along on the restoration, I keep getting into things I know nothing about

I have a 32 olds Patrician and it has metal trim around the inside of the windows that is woodgrained, I took all the old paint off and and the rust that was underneath I removed by electrolysis, and noticed quite a bit of pitting, nothing through the metal, but enough to make a rough surface, so before I paint it and woodgrain it, what is the best way to fill the pits, other than that the metal is good and strong

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[Bhigdog]

Bead blast and polyester body filler (Bondo). Polyester glazing putty will yield a finer/denser surface but either is fine.....................Bob

[Rusty_OToole]

Primer and glazing putty should be all you need. Sand with 240, then 400 wet or dry. Touch up any marks you missed the first time. When it is quite smooth, primer again, let dry, sand with 400 and it's ready to paint.

[Guest vacabill]

Primer and glazing putty should be all you need. Sand with 240, then 400 wet or dry. Touch up any marks you missed the first time. When it is quite smooth, primer again, let dry, sand with 400 and it's ready to paint.

There's a lot of different primers out there, any particular primer that i should use? the pitting is not all over, its just in a couple of spots maybe 2-3" at most on all the window trim pieces. is there a differrent primer for the putty and the bare metal or is there one that can be used on both.

So I prime all the bare metal first, apply putty, sand, touch up with putty(if needed) prime and then sand.

Edited March 16, 2013 by vacabill (see edit history)

[jpage]

I've had very good results by just using Krylon primer( gray or red) from a can. Krylon seems to have a lacquer base so it's compatible with the lacquer putties. This is an easy ,convenient and inexpensive method for smaller areas or parts. For small parts like garnish mouldings you can reprime with the Krylon and finish paint over it. Try to buy Krylon from an industrial dealer as the commercial line still has the conventional nozzle not the DIY type on the consumer cans. I've even painted parts like horns and such with Krylon that have lasted over 16 years and still look new!.

[MrEarl]

Depending on the depth of the pits I've used a rattle can High-build Primer Surfacer from Eastwood.

[Curti]

Bead blast, fill pits with poylester spot glaze, I like Evercoat. Sand with 180, prime with red or grey, then spray a light dusting of the opposite color, sand with 320. This will bring out the imperfections, this is refered to as guide coating. Repeat the process until it is perfectly smooth. Do the last sanding process with 400 or 600. I prefer to use lacquer base products Like Nitrostan very sparingly an it tends to shrink over time and sanding scratches appear. You will find the wood graining technique more difficult than the simple prep work.

[nickelroadster]

Basically there are two ways of doing this. Either primer with a heavy filling primer by itself or use a spot putty (polyester can be over bare metal or on top of primer, laquer spot putty only on top of primer.) You are getting slightly different suggestions here but none of us can see the depth of the pits nor do we know the brand of materials that you are using. It would even be possible to use a high build primer and then decide that you still have the pits and need to apply spot putty. I would get an Eastwood catalog and read through the descriptions of all the different primers and spot putties to kind of get an idea of what the different products do. When you do decide on the products, follow the directions for that product rather than try to follow suggestions from us. Different products are meant to be used in different ways. I would lean towards just using a filler primer but cannot say for sure as I cannot see your pitting. Take your time and try to educate yourself. For the most part if you screw it up, you just have to do it again.

[Guest vacabill]

Basically there are two ways of doing this. Either primer with a heavy filling primer by itself or use a spot putty (polyester can be over bare metal or on top of primer, laquer spot putty only on top of primer.) You are getting slightly different suggestions here but none of us can see the depth of the pits nor do we know the brand of materials that you are using. It would even be possible to use a high build primer and then decide that you still have the pits and need to apply spot putty. I would get an Eastwood catalog and read through the descriptions of all the different primers and spot putties to kind of get an idea of what the different products do. When you do decide on the products, follow the directions for that product rather than try to follow suggestions from us. Different products are meant to be used in different ways. I would lean towards just using a filler primer but cannot say for sure as I cannot see your pitting. Take your time and try to educate yourself. For the most part if you screw it up, you just have to do it again.

I will post some pics tomorrow

[Guest vacabill]

Here's some pics and 1 before i removed the rust and paint, I still have to clean them up a little more

Edited March 18, 2013 by vacabill (see edit history)

[Bhigdog]

Bead blast and glazing putty. Sand and prime as described. Minor problem easily fixed at little expense other than your time and labor...................Bob

[Curti]

It appears there will be some pin holes after they are blasted. I would suggest Dura-Glass or a simialar product as the first coat.

other than that it is bodywork 101.

[Guest vacabill]

thanks

[Guest vacabill]

just an update, i contacted the company i am going to buy my woodgraining set from and told him what i had and he sent me some heavy primer to try, I just applied 1 coat today, havent sanded it yet, but,so far it seems to do what i need, so far

[nickelroadster]

If the "heavy" primer was a two part epoxy or urethane product you will be ok as they don't really shrink much after curing. If what you used was a lacquer product ,you may have problems. What was your product brand or type? You are usually able to apply more than one coat in a fairly quick amount of time. I assume you are following direction.

[Guest vacabill]

its there brand called UPOL#5 and its urethane, its months or a year down the road before i will be installing the moulding, i am going to just do 1 or 2 pieces for now and let it sit, just to see what happens over time and if looks good than i will do all of them. all the directions say after getting rid of the rust, oils etc and sanding, apply 1 or 2 coats then sand with 600 - 1000 sand paper

Edited March 31, 2013 by vacabill (see edit history)

[nickelroadster]

As long as it is urethane you will be alright although I would have applied two or three coats. 600 to 1000 grit is probably a little fine for starters. I sure there are some directions on the can.

[Guest vacabill]

As long as it is urethane you will be alright although I would have applied two or three coats. 600 to 1000 grit is probably a little fine for starters. I sure there are some directions on the can.

those were the only directions, and they were on the can, i will call them tomorrow to get more info, since i only did one piece, i can remove it and start over,thanks for the tip

[nickelroadster]

No need to remove and start over. All you need to do is sand and reprime. Often times you don't get all the imperfections the first time and it is perfectly normal to go over any type of bodywork until you have it right. Even the most experienced people have to do this fairly often. Use a shop light from the side to check for imperfections.

[ted sweet]

dont use lacquar primer or lacquar putty

[Guest vacabill]

the black thats still in the pits, is that true rust, or what?

[jpage]

The black you see is rust contamination. But don't worry, if you clean it well wipe it first with a metal etch to remove or stabilize any small rust spots and prime over. After sealing it up well with primer and a topcoat you should have no problem,especially with interior parts. And what's wrong with lacquer primer and putty? Been using it for years with no problems; you just have to let it dry! Can't get in a hurry! Did all my "A" wheels with it ; they still looked new after 16 years.

[Guest vacabill]

The black you see is rust contamination. But don't worry, if you clean it well wipe it first with a metal etch to remove or stabilize any small rust spots and prime over. After sealing it up well with primer and a topcoat you should have no problem,especially with interior parts. And what's wrong with lacquer primer and putty? Been using it for years with no problems; you just have to let it dry! Can't get in a hurry! Did all my "A" wheels with it ; they still looked new after 16 years.

Well, I've learned a lot, just goes to show ya,,,,,more than one way to skin a ????

[nickelroadster]

The problem with lacquer primer and spot putty is that they continue to dry and shrink for quite a while. Shrinkage is more where it is thickest and will mirror the pits underneath. You can use it but modern products work better with less hassle. I still use them ocassionably but only for very small flaws and you have to let it dry very thoroughly. The urethane primer will work fine for you and will not shrink. You do need to metal prep before priming.