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Defrost Problems


VickyBlue

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Pending our move to TX, sold all our vehicles and the old girl in now my only ride.

The drive to work is freeway driving, 120 miles one way, once a week. Average speed is 60-65 mph, fuel consumption 14 mpg. The only issue I have now that I drive her all the time is fog inside the windshield.

When I got her there was no ducting at all. I got all new ducting, heater motor works fine, flow is pretty good, but not sufficient at the window vents. I pulled the vents out, taped the seams to eliminate any leaks but that did not help. There are no leaks from the ducting.

The problem starts gradually, once the engine is warmed up, with all the switches in the off position, fog starts forming right at the vents. The faster I go from that point, the faster it forms up. I have tried turning on the fan blower at full speed, but all it does is accelerate the fog formation. With in an hr of driving at freeway speeds, a 6x3 inch area clears up but that's all...

I even bought a cheap Harbor Freight 12v defroster but that didn't work either. Air was pretty warm but not enough airflow. At freeway speeds with the temp outside in the 30's the windshield temperature differential is huge.

I have tried equalizing the temperature to the point it is comfortable, but still no joy. Once the sun is up and warms up the outside window, it all goes away. At night time it is the worst. I found out the best way to clean the inside of the window, is a clean dry erase board pad... One pass and fog is gone, till it forms up again.

I capped the defrosts and it seemed to delay the fog formation but not eliminate it. It has now become a habit, something that "comes with the package" I guess. It doesn't bother me that much but if there is something I could do eliminate it it would help me driving at night.

I was thinking diverting somehow cold dry air from the outside straight to the vents to kind of equalize the temperature of the window between inside and outside. I know how and why I am getting fog inside. Is there an easier way to fix this? I know at some point it will be warm enough and this will be something to remember, but I am curious to what you all think.

i never thought driving her would bring so much joy and proudness... She keeps up with traffic with no issues, plenty of juice, the stock brakes are very adequate, nice and toasty inside ( I know, doesn't help with the issue I have). I have over 1000 miles and keep counting... :)

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I would try bypassing the ranco valve before trying anything else. It is not easy to see into that corner to replace stuff but in fact the heater comes off from inside the car and when I did the one on my Super it was much easier than I imagined.

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The heater core was replaced with a unit bought from a parts vendor from OK, he was recommended on this site, John it was the same guy that got you the one you have... It was in nearly as new condition and as far as I can tell there are no leaks as I don't see fluid on the floor. There is no fluid leaking inside either. I thought of that too, but can't find the leak, if there is one.

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There is a pretty expensive Cadillac out there somewhere with 1/2" copper sweat caps on the heater valve inlet and outlet and 5/8" (which is the cap O.D.) slid over them. It looks original and doesn't soak the carpet.

Along the same topic, '94 to '96 Roadmasters have awful defrosting, only in the center. When I complained about it to a friend he told me most Buick owners didn't have peripheral vision anyway so full defrosting wasn't needed.

Bernie

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I bypassed the rancho valve with a copper ball valve. Drove my 120 miles yesterday and it still does it. I was hoping it was the valve so I wouldn't have to remove the heater core again... When I had the heater core out, I wrote down the dimensions on a piece of paper as I was trying to match it with a new unit from a different vehicle. I lost that paper. Any one has them handy? I haven't had any luck with radiator shops here in town... Two of them... Hope TX guys can do a better job. I will close the valve on the home Friday and see what happens. Thanks everyone :)

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When I asked the vendor if the unit was tested I was told "if it leaked he wouldn't be selling it..." It looked as new when I got it, I had no reason to had it pressure tested. I just went ahead and put it back together. Two radiator shops, two pressure tests and my radiator still drips once a week or so. So, in all honesty I don't even know if a pressure test would have worked. But yes, it sucks that I have to do the job twice...

The bright side is I get to drive her every week now for 120 miles per leg. Foggy windshield or not she treats me good and I wouldn't change it for nothing. Once I am situated in Houston I will get a decent radiator shop and who knows, maybe a new radiator is in the cards.

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Reading your post gets me all steamed up about my exhaust system purchase two years ago. It has been hard not to name him on here. These guys who make ambiguous and arrogant statements just need to be walked away from. There is more than one resource for any part. The only thing you have of value to these jerks is your money. You have two options; tell them because of their attitude you prefer to take your money elsewhere and you will never bother them again, or just walk and they won't have a clue. Arrogant and oblivious entertains me the most.

Bernie

By the way, this signature picture is known as my "Mister Know-It-All" picture. Any Rocky & Bullwinkle fans out there?

Edited by 60FlatTop (see edit history)
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I was more cautious and sent mine to the shop to be boiled and checked for leaks when I got it. In my case there were no leaks as per the radiator shop. So I was lucky.

Focus on the positive side. You already had the bolts undone recently, so there should not be any that are frozen or rusted up. May that and your commute each day continue to bring you a smile or two.

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When I was looking for oem heater cores there were a few that were the same dimensions both from GM and Ford. The only difference was the location of the inlet/outlet. I was going to cover the bottom opening on the heater cover that the heater core goes into and open another one right next to the one on the top. Autozone had them for $25. Problem is I lost the paper with the exact dimension... I have the last two weeks of the month off so I will pull this one out measure it and get the aftermarket one. I will post pictures. Yep... It will be a cold ride home but between the fog inside and the fact I have no wiper motor (wiperman has it :)) you get the idea. Rain-X does work though... The rain -x fog does not. Neither does white vinegar, or wax, or shaving foam, or potatoe, or a cheap 12V electric defroster. Not enough airflow.

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As far as air flow goes, you could adjust the defroster door. It probably would be a good idea to make sure you are getting that door fully opened for better airflow. When my core was leaking I would also see that antifreeze fog but it would eventually go away with sufficient airflow. And it also seems in my 56 that you cannot use both the heat and defroster together. I have to shut off the heat before pulling the defroster handle in order to get max air flow on the windshield vents.

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The heater core was indeed leaking. Spectra makes a unit that fits a 66 Buick Special (94531). Price was $34 plus tax. Life time warranty. The length was shorter by half inch the width almost by 3". Inlet/outlet on the same side. I was able to fit it, attach it by using a custome made bracket and used closed cell insulation to fit the gaps. Re attached the ducting and it worked. I checked the flaps and they do work. I drove this morning and not only I am getting sweet heat, but also no more windows fogging... Amazing what a new heater core can do...

Here the pictures I promised:)

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Edited by VickyBlue (see edit history)
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