1957 cadillac sedan deville braking system.

[Guest mccoy5]

The brakes on my 57 are little mushy! Is it possible to bleed, repair, change brake fluid, or pads to fix problem? If so how do I go about doing so? The master cylinder, brake booster, and reservoir are unfamiliar to me on this car. I have changed a few pads and rotors a few times. Bled brakes also. I wanna know the right procedure. Can the these brakes be bled? I know would be better to change to disc brakes. What rotors and calipers seem to work best for my application? Some body please steer me in the right direction.

[keiser31]

Always adjust the brakes prior to bleeding. Sounds like you need a shop manual or a good brake mechanic. Those brakes should be sufficient without changing over to discs.

[poci1957]

Do not be fooled by the people who claim to sell an easy disc swap. They may have an easy disc swap for Chevys but they are hit and miss on other GM cars IMO.

Your drum brakes should be configured like any other drum brake and easy to work on using normal tools and procedures. Unlike modern cars they must be adjusted to allow for lining wear, a common service in the 1950s but not often needed on later cars. This is what Keiser31 correctly refers to, and if you are not up to the job any mechanic should be able to do it easily. The quick and basic way to do this is securely raise the car onto jackstands so you can freely turn the wheels. Get behind the backing plate and using a brake tool or screwdriver in the access slot tighten the brakes until they drag just slightly when rotating the wheel. If you have recently bought the car and not checked the brakes previously it would be best to remove the drums to inspect everything. If your power brakes and everything else is working properly this should restore your braking action quick and easy.

If your hydraulic system needs rebuilt the wheel cylinders should also be no problem to deal with, BUT you are correct that the master cylinder and power booster are unlike a modern car. You should have a Bendix Treadle Vac which is a widely used early power brake that can be quirky. If you have problems with that you may need a specialist (ask me how I know!). Write back for more details if needed, and buy a factory service manual ASAP, good luck, Todd C

[Guest Skyking]

Also check the rubber hoses going to the wheel cylinders. We recently worked on a '57 Cadillac brake system that were clogged solid.

[TexRiv_63]

Not sure of your situation but it sounds like this car or the brake situation is new to you. In my experience the brake system is the most neglected part of any old car. You can buy a car that looks great and runs great where it is obvious that the car was maintained well but the first thing that goes wrong has to do with the brakes. For something so directly connected to saving your life when you drive it amazes me that so many cars have brake systems that are one step from total failure! OK, rant over - I agree with the previous posters that the power drum system on your Cadillac will do just fine if it is good condition and properly adjusted. The first thing you need to do is a total inspection, all wheels off the ground, drums off, check linings, make sure there are no broken springs or missing hold-downs, check master and wheel cylinders for leaks, check for grease leaks from wheel bearings, inspect all hard lines and rubber hoses for leaks, cracks, or rust. If everything look great, replace the drums and adjust as mentioned above. If they are still mushy flush out all the old fluid, replace with new and bleed. Even if the adjustment fixes the problem you should still flush and bleed as cheap insurance.

Unfortunately almost every old car I have ever owned has needed major brake work. Don't skimp - better safe than sorry. Good luck!

[NTX5467]

Although drum brakes have generally not been used in many years on many vehicles, there ARE still some GM 1/2 ton pickups which have rear drum brakes from the factory (with disc brakes up front). So, if you can find somebody that has worked on them before, even at a GM dealership, the basic principles and general sort of parts are very similar . . . BUT will most probably be specific to your vintage Cadillac. For an idea of what might still be "out there" as far as replacement brake parts, you can go to www.rockauto.com and shop. They have (generally) nation-wide name brand items so you can get an idea of what the local parts store might have access to or can order.

As for the brake adjustment, there's also a large inside/outside caliper to do those adjustments without the need of the time-honored two-screwdriver method. You put one side of the caliper inside of the brake drum and lock it down for the inside diameter of the braking surface inside of the drum. Then you can adjust the linings, using the other side of the caliper to gauge when the adjustment is correct. Then you might back off the adjustment a notch or two on the adjuster wheel, for good measure. This works best with an inner drum surface that is smooth and without a "wear lip", though . . . which if you have, then the final adjustment would be the "two-screwdriver method".

I'd say that if the rubber brake lines don't look fairly recent, plan on changing them anyway. Sometimes, they can separate internally and form an inline check valve of sorts for the fluid. This can result in braking pressure ALWAYS at one wheel, as the inner separation will not let the fluid pressure release when you take your foot off of the brake pedal.

Very nice cars!

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

[PONTIAC1953]

Do not be fooled by the people who claim to sell an easy disc swap. They may have an easy disc swap for Chevys but they are hit and miss on other GM cars IMO.

Your drum brakes should be configured like any other drum brake and easy to work on using normal tools and procedures. Unlike modern cars they must be adjusted to allow for lining wear, a common service in the 1950s but not often needed on later cars. This is what Keiser31 correctly refers to, and if you are not up to the job any mechanic should be able to do it easily. The quick and basic way to do this is securely raise the car onto jackstands so you can freely turn the wheels. Get behind the backing plate and using a brake tool or screwdriver in the access slot tighten the brakes until they drag just slightly when rotating the wheel. If you have recently bought the car and not checked the brakes previously it would be best to remove the drums to inspect everything. If your power brakes and everything else is working properly this should restore your braking action quick and easy.

If your hydraulic system needs rebuilt the wheel cylinders should also be no problem to deal with, BUT you are correct that the master cylinder and power booster are unlike a modern car. You should have a Bendix Treadle Vac which is a widely used early power brake that can be quirky. If you have problems with that you may need a specialist (ask me how I know!). Write back for more details if needed, and buy a factory service manual ASAP, good luck, Todd C

hi todd, i was under the impression that cadillac went to using the hydrovac power brake set up starting with 1957 models. charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor.

[Ovalrace25]

Treadle-Vac 1956 -- Hydro Vac 57-- Treadle Vac 1958 All unique and have differing "probelms" to deal with when servicing.

[poci1957]

hi todd, i was under the impression that cadillac went to using the hydrovac power brake set up starting with 1957 models. charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor.

Hi Charles, looks like they did, I was not really aware but just wanted to get a quick word in to the new forum guest.

Actually Charles I wanted to check in with you anyway (but then found you were in the phillipines, ha, ha). I personally took my brake unit to Rich in Morris IL and was very impressed with his operation--he is the man on Treadle Vacs IMO. I have not installed mine yet and of course would have liked a lower cost (over $300) but he has my confidence, hope you are well, Todd C.

[Guest Bob Call]

There are vendors that sell drum brake self adjuster kits. One is www.theautopartsshop.com Might contact them and see if they can fix you up with a kit. Your Caddy should have 12 by 2 1/2 inch brakes. Several 50's and 60's GM products used that size of brakes. GM started using the self adjusters with the 1960 model year. Chances are there is a 60's GM car with self adjusters that uses the same brake shoes and wheel cylinders as your Caddy. If you can find someone with a Hollander Interchange book that covers mid 50's thru 60's you can easily find what are the same as your Caddy.