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Sludge


VickyBlue

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Change the oil every 2 years or 3000 to 5000 miles and drive it at least 10 miles if you start it and you will never see the inside of that pan again. Also use a 180* thermostat. If you only start and let it idle or have a short drive then change oil twice a year and clean the pan every 5 years.

Willie

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I took her for a 50 mile drive today... What a transformation! I never thought I was going to say this, but comparing to how I got her, it is a totally different car. The combination of finger tight radius arms, chopped front/rear springs, worn shocks, dragging brakes, it felt like someone tied your shoe laces together and said "run"... 35 MPH was an adventure, as the rear end of the car was so loose, it felt like it was going to swap ends with the front end. Then, when I got on the brakes to slow down from the 35 MPH, the left side "pulled" violently and as I was trying to correct with the steering wheel, it made matters worst... It was a constant "fight" to keep her on the road and not go for the ditch. Today, it was a good day... in her way she showed me her appreciation for the royal treatment:

1 Scott's Speedometer rebuilt my cluster

2 New gas tank from tanks Inc

3 New fuel sender

4 Fixed the ground issue with my stock fuel gauge

5 Fixed the clock

6 Fixed the radio (new cap's and vibrator)

7 Fixed the antenna

8 Pulled out the dash pad and labeled and zip tied the wiring

9 Fixed the map light

10 Removed all door panels, cleaned up window regulators, aligned windows and replaced felt strips

11 Fixed vent windows cranks

12 replaced front/rear springs

13 replaces front/rear shocks

14 replaced front/rear brake hoses

15 replaced front/rear brake pads

16 re-packed front bearings

17 replaced torque ball seal

18 replaced rear end fluid

19 took all the front suspension apart, cleaned up the old grease, painted everything and put it back together with new tie rods, dust seals, idler arm and gave it an alignment

20 New upper/lower radiator hoses with a stock T-stat

21 Oil change with a pan drop and clean up

22 replaced the broken R side exhaust manifold and installed dual super 10 series flowmasters from the collector back

I also scraped the frame rails, inside and out and bed-lined everything... Everything was torqued according to the manual. Today, in her own way she said "thank you"... What a beauty, what a ride! I pushed her up to 80 MPH and she tracked straight as an arrow, on cocker's... Adjusted the high idle, cleaned up the air filter, now you can almost count the pistons going up and down... A big thank you to all of you for your help, thanks to you I was able to do all the work myself. Thank you...

Here she is:

fb1f4a35.jpg

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Your list indicates a VERY NICE frame on restoration.

When I pulled my pan, (after driving 120 miles to get her home), I found an inch and a half of sludge with the oil pick up float laying at the bottom. I suppose in 5 years or so, I'll have to do it again.

Now go out and enjoy your ride...........

Mike in Colorado

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On nailheads like yours you can put a finger in the drain hole and feel for sludge and even look into the hole. Looking at your pictures again I see a leaking freeze plug...they don't usually get better without replacement.

Willie

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Cleaned my oil pan in february, engine has never been out of the car, 167 000 miles, sludge buildup was 1,5 inch, the pickup sat in top of the sludge. I also took apart and cleaned the oil pump and pickup, the screen of the pickup was open only to about 50%...

Everytime before I´ve changed oil it went dirty immediately, after cleaning I have driven the car couple of hundred miles and the oil looks almost as new...

Lucky though this car always have had frequent oil and filter changes at around 1000 miles intervals, now with clean pan and only summer driving I can probably extend changes.:)

Mike

Edited by mikethebike (see edit history)
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