Guest jasonperkins Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Is there a secret to pulling off the hub on the rear wheel? I have pulled the front two and rebuilt the brakes etc. I have not been able to pull off the rear passenger side. I have removed the pin and nut etc, and the puller will not seem to pull the hub off no matter what I seem to do. I thought perhaps the hand brake was catching somehow, and have tried a couple times to release it to make sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Jason, are you using a drum puller that attaches to the wheel studs? Look at this website: 1933 Plymouth Rear Axle Oil Seal Repair to see the drum puller pictured. Although this is a few years older than your '37, your hub/drum should be similar. These drum pullers are available on eBay, from NAPA, and other places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 ...I thought perhaps the hand brake was catching somehow, and have tried a couple times to release it to make sure.If stock, the hand brake is a band on the back of the transmission so it will have nothing to do with the drum on the rear axle.r1lark already posted a link to my rear axle seal repair page so I guess I don't have to post it again to show the puller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jasonperkins Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Yes I have been using a puller, and it worked great for the front two however the rear ones not so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Yes I have been using a puller, and it worked great for the front two however the rear ones not so much.Just when you thought that you have whacked the puller hard enough, hit it again only harder. It will probably come off. Stand aside because sometimes they tend to fly further than you may think (or you could put the nut back on part way). Other times, they just drop off. Seriously...hit it harder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jasonperkins Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Hit it harder.....LOL that is what I was thinking I just wanted someone to re-affirm that I can do that without breaking something....sometimes I go a little too quick for the sledge hammer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Hit it harder.....LOL that is what I was thinking I just wanted someone to re-affirm that I can do that without breaking something....sometimes I go a little too quick for the sledge hammerI have had to use a sledge hammer on them. You might also look close at the hub to see if there may be a small roundhead screw holding the drum to the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Yes I have been using a puller, and it worked great for the front two however the rear ones not so much.Huh? Shouldn't need a puller on the front hubs at all.And you definitely need the type of puller that bolts onto the hub, not one that tries to grip around the edge. You don't mention the type of puller you've been using so I wanted to double check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jasonperkins Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 The front was stuck on a bit I had to use a puller. I have been using the kind that has the bolt that you screw in the middle, and that has bolts that go through the hub in the spaces for the actual wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest carlnut50 Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Make sure you back your brake shoe cams off, that might be why the front hubs were hard to get off. Get the heavy duty puller like everybody says that fastens to the wheel studs ( bolts on the Plymouth. Don't forget it is left hand threads on the left side. Or you can use a knocker threaded to the axle and a sledge hammer. If you use a knocker, jack up the opposite rear wheel so the weight will be on the one you are getting loose. Chrysler products, Nash and rambler ,Ford and plenty of others used this system years ago. The flange type came later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 ...Don't forget it is left hand threads on the left side...According to the '36-48 parts book, left hand threaded bolts are for '40-48 (and maybe later). '33-39 should have right hand thread on both sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jasonperkins Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 OK so seriously as a follow up....I have been using a drum puller (the kind that screw into the hub and has a bolt in the center pushing against the axle)I have the axle nut and cotter pin removed.I have pb blaster the crap out of the whole thingI have loosened the cams off as much as I can.I have used a sledge hammerAND I AM NOW ON MY 4TH BOLT ON THE PULLER it has ripped through 3 center bolts already on the puller.Somebody please tell me what is wrong with my wheel here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Commodore Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Jasonperkin for your FYI, I found this statement "Seems like the new pullers made in China break pretty easily so you'd be better off finding a vintage one" on the "General Discussion" forum under "1934 Chrysler Kew Six". http://forums.aaca.org/f169/1934-chrysler-kew-six-328318.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Yes, you need a good old Made In USA tool and tap around the edge of the drum (near the outside edge) as you whack the puller wingnut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Take the axle nut and put it back on flush with the end of the shaft. This protects the threads and keeps the hub from flying off.Get a bigger puller. The biggest one you can put on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bamford Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 If the car is drivable, screw the axle nut back on, leave it loose by one thread, insert cotter pin, remount wheel, and drive the car around the block. That may be enough to break the drum loose. If not, drive it further and, if necessary, over rougher terrain. This has always worked for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozz71 Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 I have a '37 Dodge Sedan- I am having trouble finding how much gear oil to put in the differential- I emptied a lot out of it, and filled it up to the lower filler hole. Does this sound safe and about right?Thanks- Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 I use SAE 140 wt. gear lube in my tranny and diff with no problems, just fill it up to the bottom of the filler hole. Incidently, my '36 Dodge has left and right threads on the wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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