1964 Riv - questions from your webmaster

[Peter Gariepy]

Most of you have no clue who I am. I'm the guy that built and maintain the AACA forums, including the Riviera forum.

I could use some advice:

I'm considering buying a 64 Riviera

• 106,000 miles
  
• Second paint - original color
  
• original interior in excelent condition
  
• Has A/C, but non-functioning
  
• Transmission functions, but leaks terrible bad
  
• Otherwise a good running/driving car.
  
• No rust.
  
• Garage stored all its life.
  

Any idea on its value before I make an offer?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Peter

[bb1970]

Me personally. I think the value is around $8000. If the tranny needs a front seal I'd offer less.

[steelman]

Another problem area for these cars is the heater core. Seats, console and most of the dash have to come out to replace it. Might want to check that as well. The A/C isn't a big deal if all the parts are still there. Tranny may be a front seal or simply a bad o-ring in the filler tube. Plan for the worst and offer accordingly. I think BB is pretty close on his $8000 estimate.

[RivNut]

Peter,

First of all, thank you very much for your work on this and other forums.

Secondly, in my opinion, for $8,000 I would want to make sure that the transmission didn't leak, and the air did work. Unlike modern cars, 106K miles on a nailhead is quite a few miles. Run a compression check on the engine and see if all of the cylinders are in the same range. If the engine has been rebuilt at some time in the last 20K - 25K miles you'll be much better off.

There are hidden places you should look for rust on these things. The channel where the rear windw sits, the cups on the bottom of the trunk where the body mounts to the frame. The braces under the floor boards are a good place for dirt to hide and then get wet and hold moisture. If the car was undercoated, this rust won't appear until you look under the carpet.

I'm sure that more knowledgeable folks that I will chime in as well.

[JZRIV]

Peter,

Looks like a nice car. No chance of getting a starting price out of the seller huh?

Assuming the following:

• Paint and is presentable enough that you would not plan on redoing it .
  
• Chrome plating/trim is bright enough that it does not need redone.
  
• Car is truely straight, always rust free and has an excellent original interior.
  
• Runs and drives straight, good tires, no noises in the engine, no vibration and stops tight.
  

Those are all high dollar issues that won't need addressed so I agree with the $8k range. Maybe even a thou more if the car really speaks to you personally. True rust free cars are uncommon and are worth paying a premium for.

Also agree with Ed the engine could be getting tired. Look for signs of excessive blow-by around the valve cover breather. On the other hand if it was well maintained all its life and really shows no signs of weakness, it could be alright for a long time with minimal use. Worst case, factor in an engine rebuild at some point. Parts for the nailhead are easy to come by though not as inexpensive as Chevy engine parts of the same era. Figure $3-$4K give or take a little.

As for the tranny, the leak could be an easy fix. Master seal kits for the ST400 are reasonable and they are fairly easy to seal up IMO. Worst case the front seal is leaking which requires removal of tranny otherwise it may be able to be fixed in the car. Most likely it'll be the rear output seal, pan gasket, modulator, or speedo seals. If the rear seal is leaking plan on replacing the rear tranny mount as it will be impregnated with oil and weakened.

Good Luck and please let us know how it goes.

Edited May 5, 2012 by JZRIV (see edit history)

[1965rivgs]

Wow...assuming Pete`s info is accurate I would be way north of the values mentioned. Good luck Pete!

Tom Mooney

[lrlforfun]

OK Peter: Several things here......

1. How bad do you want this car?

2. It looks nice in the picture AND it MUST be previewed in the flesh to evaluate it's condition.

3. Other people are overjoyed to spend your money.

4. While you might get a few helpful tips as far as what to look for ultimately, you are the one to make that withdrawal.

5. More pictures would help as far as identifying what is correct or not.

6. Unless you must have this car check out a few others. There are no shortages of first-gen Rivs and you may or may not be surprised at what is out there.

7. If I were offered this car at a starting price that was inviting to me I would do the #1-#6 things I said. 8G's? Read it again! Good luck, Mitch.

[Guest Kingoftheroad]

Most of you have no clue who I am. I'm the guy that built and maintain the AACA forums, including the Riviera forum.

I could use some advice:

I'm considering buying a 64 Riviera

• 106,000 miles
  
• Second paint - original color
  
• original interior in excelent condition
  
• Has A/C, but non-functioning
  
• Transmission functions, but leaks terrible bad
  
• Otherwise a good running/driving car.
  
• No rust.
  
• Garage stored all its life.
  

Any idea on its value before I make an offer?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Peter

Peter,

If we help you, do we get free club t-shirts or something ??? lol j/k..

[Bleach]

There's a '63 in my area that looks almost like this one that was a barn find for $3500 and it runs and drives. Interior is original in fair shape but no rips and also had one repaint and is faded but could probably buff out. Non A/C car. It's solid and surprisingly has no rust out and only surface rust underneath and in the engine bay. I think it has 119K on it and it didn't smoke.

Thought I'd throw this in as a comparable.

1963 Buick Riviera

[Jolly_John]

Hi, Peter. The hood appears to fit very poorly (strangely) along the driver's side edge with the fender (almost looks bowed). I would check the car very carefully for previous front end damage and/or repair. John

Edited May 5, 2012 by Jolly_John (see edit history)

[bb1970]

Well have you made an offer??????????