NOS 88/89 window switch

[NCReatta]

Does anyone know the last list price from GM on an '88/'89 style window switch? I got one in today's mail. Just curious what they went for before there stopped offering them.

Any input is appreciated.

[Jim]

My parts book shows a retail price of $ 73.70 and a wholesale price of $ 42.10. That is for the 1648389 and the 20676245.

[Vincent Vega]

Nice!. I Wish there was a way to restore the lettering layer.

[NCReatta]

My parts book shows a retail price of $ 73.70 and a wholesale price of $ 42.10. That is for the 1648389 and the 20676245.

Thanks Jim, good to know.

Nice!. I Wish there was a way to restore the lettering layer.

I discovered something interesting while studying this switch. the lettering layer is not like the normal switches. It doesn't have the aluminum covering like the originals do. It has more of a vinyl sticker on it. it still retains the looks of the original anodized aluminum, but is definitely a vinyl sticker.

Also has the "Made in Mexico" sticker on the side.

[Guest steveskyhawk]

Marck and all,

Marck has what I call a second generation switch or simply put a replacement switch. I don't believe this style switch was ever installed as original equipment. The differences between this switch and an original switch is a perfect example of differences that can be found throughout the car due to changes in spec or vendor. Correct me if I'm wrong but If I'm not mistaken, I believe this may be called a running change. The originally installed switch had a lot to be desired and in my opinion this newer design switch is the better of the two. Situations like this bring to mind the ever present no win arguments as to what constitutes "original". In this case as in many cases the answer in my opinion is they both are original.

Pricing this NOS switch in 2012 is an interesting challenge. Back when these switches were readily available the retail price was relevant. If you could buy as many new switches like this as you wanted at any GM dealer the the retail price would prevail. Normally when new is available then viable used parts normally sell for 50% retail or thereabouts. When parts become "obsolete" the price/value equation turns upside down. As NOS parts become more and more scarce this price/value equation goes out the window. At this point in time a fair price for this switch would be a multiple of the original retail price. In the future this switch will sell for many multiples of the retail price. This is simply a function of supply and demand. If the price becomes high enough and the demand is high enough it will be reproduced at that time and the price will then fall slightly from the current NOS price. FWIW

[KDirk]

Steve is right that the NOS switch Marck has is a revised version that addressed the poor design of the lettering overlay on the original ones that went into the cars when built. These had an actual anodized aluminum layer with the lettering "punched" out to allow the EL lighting underneath to show through. These get dirt and scum in the lettering areas and the aluminum eventually starts to peel off, making them look terrible.

The second generation version (shown in Marck's picture) is "printed" to simulate the look of the anodized aluminum from the original. Fairly decent facsimile, but not 100% identical. I have this style window switch in my 88. Yet, my car has the first generation mirror switch. Side by side, the difference is somewhat noticeable. Luckily, the mirror switch still looks and works like new. I do have a plan to rework old switches to restore the EL and the overlay, but it is on hold as my first attempt at the overlay decal was not satisfactory.

I will not venture to place a value on this switch. As with many such items, if the right buyer comes along, it will fetch a premium price. Then again, it may sit for weeks or months unsold if the price is to high to appeal to the potential buyers who are aware of it. I see a fair number of NOS parts on ebay, some are surprisingly reasonable, and some are very expensive. I see items that are re-listed 10 or 15 times (or more) at the same price and never sell.

I have actually bought a couple of items like that, as after weeks or months, I finally had the extra money to pay the price being asked. That I was the only one who bit at the quoted price either makes me a sucker, or makes everyone else who looked at it a cheap skate. I don't know which, but I have scored some very rare NOS parts that I never thought I'd get, when there was ample opportunity for others to buy them before I did as they were repeatedly re-listed.

KDirk

[Fox W.]

That is really good info Kevin, as usual. Now I'd really like to find a set of the vinyl generation switches, and I'd expect to pay well for them.

Kevin, I'd be really curious what your process/progress has been on the switch restorations. PM me if you'd like. Inspired by the 3M Scotchprint Wrap Film Series 1080 products I have been thinking myself that vinyl would be the most easy way to go. I started looking at sites that offer custom printing on to clear vinyl and inquiring to see if they would be willing to replicate the switch cover. I'm not sure if they would do the switch cutouts though.

[KDirk]

Fox,

What I had attempted to do is create a new decal to overlay on the existing switch. The way the original (lets call it version one) switch was made, is that the plastic switch body had the EL light insert, then a translucent white plastic layer, and on top of this was the stamped/die cut paper thin aluminum trim piece. So, the EL light could be seen through the white translucent overlay and then through the legends that were cut in the aluminum layer.

My idea was based on removing the aluminum layer, cleaning the adhesive from the white plastic layer and then putting on a new decal. The process by which I made the decal was to recreate actual size camera ready artwork on a laser printer, complete with crop marks and thin lines for the switch cutouts. I then took this to a place that does offset printing and had a negative made of the camera ready artwork. If you are familiar with offset press, the negative is used to make the plate that is actually used in the printing process. I only needed the negative, not the plate, as it is a thin plastic film in which the positive (or black) portions of the original image are crystal clear, and the rest is completely opaque black, which will not pass any light at all.

I then hand cut the decal (which came out well, but took a long time to be precise enough on the oval shaped switch openings) and applied it with a clear adhesive put on the back of the negative except where the light needed to shine through from underneath.

Initially, I was very pleased with the results, but came to discover that the decal did not hold up so well in the heat, and that it also came started to come unglued after a couple of months. The latter might be solved with a better adhesive, but the former is a tougher problem to overcome. Additionally, the decal was high gloss (like transparency film) and thus did not match the mirror switch at all. I partially remedied this by using 0000 steel wool to create a striated finish on the decal surface, similar to the aluminum trim on the console. This however showed wear and tear (fingernail scuffs and such) in fairly short order. So, I deemed this an unsatisfactory way to do the project, and put it on hold until I can find a better idea.

Vinyl decal (of the variety commonly used on vehicle signing now) is not a good option as it is only semi-opaque (even in black) so the EL will be visible through the entire surface of the decal when lit. I don't consider that an acceptable trade off. Others may have a differing opinion. Also, it is susceptible to heat damage as well as being torn/gouged easily, so I didn't even consider doing it this way.

My latest idea is to use gravoply, which is a signing/name plate material (think of the name plates that slide into a brass holder atop an office desk) that can be laser etched and cut to very precise tolerances. It is about 1/8" thick typically, so thicker than what we would be replacing which may be a problem. However, the black over white variety could be used with satisfactory results on the back-lighting - I think - as the black (upper) layer is almost 100% opaque and the white layer will allow light through, although maybe not as much as the original decal setup. This still would not match the original decals, and would also have the lettering engraved (so it would collect dust and grime as with the original switches) but would at least be a bit more durable. Right now this is the only other workable idea I have come up with, and just haven't committed to trying it out yet. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

KDirk

[zoltanb]

There is a new version on Ebay

[TABLE=class: li nol]

<tbody>[TR]

[TD=class: details]87-89 BUICK REATTA & RIVIERA OEM CENTER CONSOLE MASTER ... (Fits: Buick Reatta)

[/TD]

[/TR]

</tbody>[/TABLE]

looks pretty good, this version will last a long time.

[handmedownreatta]

gone now.

[padgett]

This is how you get a $100,000 Chevelle.