Fox W.

Ah I figured out it's the door ajar switch, I will have to figure out where it went exactly.

In addition to part of the hall effect sensor being broken off, I found another broken part in the door with two wires connected through the door wiring harness that I don't know what it is. (last pic) There are also other bits that not I'm entirely sure which are part of the hall sensor, or something else. Pictures attached.

Yeah I reached out to his gmail a couple days ago, just waiting to hear back.

Hello, first let me know if I have posted this in the wrong section, I didn't see a dedicated buy/sell area anymore for the Reatta. My driver side exterior door handle broke last night. Very frustrating and need to fix it ASAP as it's my current daily driver while I'm in CA where I store it. I gather the painted part comes with them and is not removable/transferrable? I have an S13 color code Reatta, though I had it restored/repainted in 2012, so matching will be tough for that. The car is beautiful and I'm trying to always keep it tip top. I need work on the hinges/door alignments too, I think this added stress is probably contributed to the handle breaking. Anyway, let me know if anyone has anything very nice or NOS for sale for these, the car is otherwise beautiful and I keep trying to make it nicer over time. Thank you, - Fox

With a new servo the problem is fixed. Thanks all.

No ECM codes, it's BCM: B671 ; current and persistent. I guess that is the servo position error.. bad coil ? I wonder if I should just replace or attempt repair.

I don't understand it either, though yeah phones are a poor way to do research imo, so it probably encourages laziness. I hope folk like you are always around.. The FSM is invaluable, once I had one I really understood and I could help myself to a far greater understanding and granular level. What newcomers expect is the Reddit and such way of things, a distillation of information by quorum.. Like a shortcut to probability.. which I get, I am guilty of it too at times, and it kind of works with the Reatta because the car is old enough that we do tend to often be aware of what tends to fail and be the answer, but certainly there are still tons of one-offs and guessing is hard.. In the least they should google acronyms and words they don't understand instead of spending more time than it takes for that to reply back asking you, heh.

Thanks I'll get the code, sorry about that. I did try unplugging and plugging back in the cruise assembly under the hood as well as checking connectors. Also I should have mentioned this happens before the car is even running, error is even just while ON (not start)

Hi all, Sorry if this overlaps with any previous threads. Recently my car started throwing cruise errors. I fear it could be electrical as I couldn't find anything wrong with the module/linkage/vacuum hoses. It started by constantly flipping between error state and OK over and over, nagging very often on the CRT. Then eventually it just became consistently in error state. I found an old thread saying there can be a wire in the steering column that can get its insulation rubbed off and short to ground. Is that common?

Great idea. Yeah I already have the 'Klein IR5 Dual Laser 12:1 ' one ; Thank you.

Thank you all, yeah I wish I had a meter so I could just test myself and adjust what I can. I do not know what the engine temp was the day I tested, however I do know it was extremely hot out and I had the A/C on, so I'm sure after some idling at the test station it was hitting the 213f peak where even the aux fan comes on. Perhaps just re-testing during the cooler season would pass me. I did replace the water pump myself and intake manifold gasket and such, hopefully I didn't end up causing a coolant leak.

Hey guys, Wondering what from experience with these engines is my best bets other than the cat for these results attached.: The HC and CO levels are fine, but I failed by a bit for NO ; I've read that high temps can cause this. I keep everything on this car tip top as I can, I am not aware or seeing any cooling issues, or problems with the EGR. I am using the Bosch gen3 injectors, that's the only more unusual variable I have going on. Any ideas of things I could try? What data/outputs from the CRT could I view to get some bearing on this? Wish I had an NO meter so I could just test. The O2 sensor is quite new and OEM, the fuel pressure regulator is quite new ; MAF cleaned recently. My converter only has about 35k miles on it, it's a direct-fit replacement from Magnaflow. I realize factory ones are better. Thanks.

Hey guys, yeah I've tried to repair this one several times. It isn't the variable resistor or anything like that, it's physically just broken and rigged together. Someone also had cut the original lines at the top and hacked things together. I'd like to just replace it all with a good unit.

Does anyone by chance have a complete very good condition fuel sending unit for an 89? (Or NOS is even better) I haven't been able to find one anywhere. Thanks.

Looking to either purchase a fully working tape deck, or see if anyone here can, or knows someone who can still fix these? I saw in history places that could, but not sure if they are still in business. (88-89) Let me know, thanks.

Like him or not, I was excited to get the Reatta some modern attention and my car was almost going to be his subject matter. However after some great initial communication and a lot of interest on his part, I took some time to perfect mine and when I hit him up again, nothing, no replies. Aw well.

Thanks Barney. I'm just trying to see if anyone can confirm if Delphi HP10010 will fit Reatta's that use the short lines?

Anyone have a sending unit for sale that fits an 89 with the shorter lines?

The regulator seems to have two functions really. Without it, the return flow is wide open.. So its function isn't just to vary the pressure based on its vacuum with the diaphragm, it also is supposed to prevent fuel flow back entirely when it's below 40psi. The thing is, the new one I put on did mostly fix the problem. But it's still not quite in spec I don't think.. though it is good enough. I hear it open at 40psi, but then it fairly quickly tends to still bleed down to 30psi, and from there very slowly bleeds down to 5psi, but still much faster than I hear some people say.. Some say their rail holds 40psi for a day or more. *shrug* I -thoroughly- tested the input line (output from pump) and it is not flowing back with that path, not even slightly. I submerged my assembly in water, and blew 20psi in to the out, and zero bubbles or pressure loss. I also put a block-off bolt in to the regulators' output for the return line, just entirely block that off, I ran the pump for half a second to charge the rail to 40psi and there was zero loss. Therefore all my loss is through the return, through the regulator. In any case the car starts, runs and drives great now, so I'm happy. BUT, my damn fuel sending unit doesn't work right now, it reads I have an 1/8th when I have a full tank. gerrrrr. Maybe from the water test, I don't know, but it's unhappy now. I dread dropping the tank all over again, what a pain in the #*@. My unit has two short lines, and the vapor is a long steel line. On the other side there are rubber lines that mate to these. Delphi HP10010 seems to be the closest new replacement match I can find. It's vapor line is short but you can just use rubber for that anyway. Anyone know if that unit will fit right with our lines?

I need to find a box for it, if I pack it right then I think it will make it just fine. The problem is shipping cost yeah. I'll try to get an estimate, and I'll let it go cheap because I don't need it and it's mostly just taking up space.. I'm not trying to make money off it.

Jim has saved us all once or twice.

Here is Padgett's old write up: http://reattaowner.com/roj/common-problems-a-solutions/simple-3800-cam-magnet-replacement

Years ago I bought a tail lens from some guy who was selling them as fully restored and such. Well it came with a far, far worse polishing job than I can do myself, and a couple broken retainers due to poor shipping. I've fixed the retainers with epoxy and I restored the polycarbonate properly so it really looks good now. The letters will need replacement if you want perfection. I'll take pics soon. But just wondering who would want it and what it's worth? I don't mind low-ball offers, I don't need it.. I ended up having my own restored, which I was told I couldn't do, but that wasn't true, my original came back like new. Thanks.

I disconnected the return line from the regulator and put a cup under the regulator output and ran the pump. Fuel shot out instantly and when I stopped the pump it kept draining out. Is this abnormal? I would think that it would not let the fuel drain out unless it was ~>40psi.

No worries, I already picked up a new one last night for $18, it should arrive in a couple days. I guess the only other thing to do is submerge the pickup assembly fully in water and do 20psi in to the outlet and look for bubbles, as per the shop manual.